Is this filter cap backwards??

jhawkn

New Member
Hi all,

I recently acquired a Sanyo DCX 2500K for $5. Replaced a couple fuses and gave it a good cleaning, and had it working fairly well. I probably should have left it alone, but those old electrolytics in the power supply were calling my name. Maybe I should’ve ignored the voices?

Well, I recapped a few days ago, carefully replacing one cap at a time and noting polarity. Some of the old caps had corroded leads, too, helping me to feel justified in my choice to recap. I plugged in the receiver, powered on, and was greeted by a sort of “pop”, followed by hum. I can get music to play, but one channel is somewhat weak now, and there is 120hz hum.

Somewhat flummoxed, I unplugged the receiver, discharged the caps, and removed the power supply board, taking detailed notes of where all lead wires connected to the board. I gave the underside of the board a gentle clean. Then I checked for continuity and separation on all traces, but everything seemed to be in order.

Then I got to looking at all the filter caps, and noticed an anomaly. All but one of the caps had the negative leg connected to ground. I thought, “Aha!! Here’s the problem—I somehow got one cap backwards!” I then referenced a picture I took of the supply board before the recap, but the old cap did indeed have it’s positive leg soldered to ground.

So......is this capacitor backwards??

Did the old cap somehow work, even though it was backwards? Or am I barking up the wrong tree and there is a different problem entirely? Perhaps I need to reflow some solder?

Here’s a pic of the board before the recap. The cap in question is outlined in red. Note the black line denoting the negative lead, circled in yellow.

Here’s a top view of the recapped board.

Here’s the bottom. The globs of solder are courtesy of the Sanyo factory.

And finally, here’s a pic of the top of the board, with an overlay of the traces and notes to where all the lead wires went. The cap in question is on the bottom in the middle.
 
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Reflow all the solder connections around the outer edge. This would all be a ground connection for that board.
 
Note the 4 screws that fasten down the board. Clean the area around the screw holes with scotchbrite. One or two of those screws provides chassis ground to that circuit board. So the screws must be fastened tight.
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Scrub with acetone to clean the solder side of that board.
 
How many black wires attach to that PS board?

3 black wires. The ground wire is soldered to both the chassis and the supply board. This is the only board I removed, and I removed it after I noticed the hum/popping (I did not remove the board to recap it).
 
I removed it after I noticed the hum/popping
OK .. So the issue has always been popping/hum in the one channel. Popping can be caused by cold solder connections or semiconductors breaking down(transistors and diodes). Check your soldered connections on the transistors and diodes in the offending channel.Wiggling the component while observing the solder connections helps.Anything that looks iffy re-flow a little fresh solder.
 
Not trying to be mean....
75% of those solder joints look like shit.
You have disturbed joints, cold joints, and even a joint or two that look devoid of solder altogether.
I would get your sucker and some wick out.
Pull the old solder out.
Then take an exacto knife and scrape each leg of each component removing any corrosion or other anomalies.
Then resolder them using much less solder than you see on many of those joints.
 
Not trying to be mean....
75% of those solder joints look like shit.
You have disturbed joints, cold joints, and even a joint or two that look devoid of solder altogether.
I would get your sucker and some wick out.
Pull the old solder out.
Then take an exacto knife and scrape each leg of each component removing any corrosion or other anomalies.
Then resolder them using much less solder than you see on many of those joints.
If the root problem was the PS board. It would effect both channels.
 
OK .. So the issue has always been popping/hum in the one channel. Popping can be caused by cold solder connections or semiconductors breaking down(transistors and diodes). Check your soldered connections on the transistors and diodes in the offending channel.Wiggling the component while observing the solder connections helps.Anything that looks iffy re-flow a little fresh solder.

Not just one channel. A pop (upon startup only) and hum in both, but one channel has weaker output than before.
 
Not just one channel. A pop (upon startup only) and hum in both, but one channel has weaker output than before.
Would have been a key bit of info in your first post. The low in one channel could be just a dirty switch or control. Does it hum in both channels?
 
Filter for a ( - ) negative voltage power supply.

This is why a dumb-ass such as myself haunts this forum.
Just last week I almost started thread asking "Is there ever a reason why a polarized cap would be hooked-up backwards?"

Not saying the preamp board I'm working on is correctly silkscreened [it's Chinese and the previous board I built did in fact have markings showing the incorrect placement of polarized caps], but that bit of info helps me a lot with my current quandary.
Thanks.
 
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