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JBL 2269H subwoofer build

Discussion in 'The Lansing Legacy' started by donprice, Mar 29, 2018.

  1. donprice

    donprice Wound up workin' at a gas station.... Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,376
    IMG_20180127_170452152.jpg IMG_20180127_170523507.jpg IMG_20180127_170604106.jpg The title pretty much says it all. I decided I needed to "upgrade" my JBL B460 and eventually pulled the trigger on a new 2269H driver. It is quite the beast though in hindsight I probably should have ordered the 4 ohm 2269G version. The basic plan was to build something similar to the JBL Sub 18 to go with my DIY M2 clones.

    I built a CNC router kit a few months ago so everything was designed around the ~32"x32" cutting limits. As you can see from the photos, the CNC did lead to some excessively creative bracing. More photos to follow... IMG_20180127_170214703.jpg IMG_20180127_170230857.jpg
     
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  2. donprice

    donprice Wound up workin' at a gas station.... Subscriber

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    1/2" baltic birch plywood used. I doubled up the plywood to make the cabinet solid. And heavy. Picked up some scrap 5" PVC pipe for ports. Duratex for baffles and bottom. Rosewood veener for tops and sides. The veneer was already cut for another project so I wasn't able to wrap it around the way I wanted to. This will be good enough for rock'n'roll.

    IMG_20180218_151532082.jpg IMG_20180315_183603665.jpg IMG_20180315_183618368.jpg
     
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  3. Stan man

    Stan man Active Member

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    427
    Very nice !!
    Do follow up through your progressions and ultimately their performance.
     
  4. Marine0811

    Marine0811 I love it loud! Subscriber

    Sweet! Nice job
     
  5. donprice

    donprice Wound up workin' at a gas station.... Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,376
    Now you can see why matching the top and side veneers was not critical. Given the size and location of the sub, it is going to get stuff set on it - drinks, tools, pictures, christmas decorations, and plants. 1/4" tempered smoked glass isn't cheap but it should eliminate any discussion of what is or is not appropriate to place upon my beloved sub.

    Power is provided by a Crown XTi 2002 which is good for about 1600 watts bridged into 8 ohms. I haven't spent much time time beating on them but should get the chance this weekend.

    IMG_20180510_182855209.jpg
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    IMG_20180510_182915931.jpg
     
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  6. tarior

    tarior Dirty pool, old man? Subscriber

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    6,523
    Location:
    Kelso, Washington
    Looks nice. Curious to hear you thoughts on whether it is a success.
     

     

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  7. donprice

    donprice Wound up workin' at a gas station.... Subscriber

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    2,376
    I've been busy replacing the carpet in the house which required the teardown and reassembly of basically everything electronic in the house....so I'm just now getting everything back in place, wired, and tested. Currently working on adjusting the gain levels and checking connections to get rid of a little ground hum. The sub amp is currently running flat (no DSP enabled) though the Yamaha YPAO was allowed to do what it does during set up. Need to eventually work in a high-pass filter around 20 Hz to protect against over-excursion on ULF content. Currently using 60 Hz as the x-over to the M2 clones. A quick test with the Telarc sampler cut of the 1812 Overture was lots of fun. I think there in no doubt that finding the finding the performance limits of the system will require a mic and hearing protection :rockon:
     
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  8. donprice

    donprice Wound up workin' at a gas station.... Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,376
    Having experienced some extreme paranoia regarding dust cap punching by visiting children, I decided it was time to work on a grill. Lots of scrap 5mm plywood in the shop so let's start with that. Here we are just getting started.

    IMG_20180828_195928098.jpg
    A flat frame would work but I wanted to come of with something three dimensional like some of the classic L series speakers of the 70s & 80s. I haven't figured out how to do surface profiles on my CNC router so I'll do it the hard way and cut up some pieces and glue them up. IMG_20180928_170045602.jpg

    The holes allow for a threaded rod to align them for easier glue up after cutting them loose on the band saw. And here's a shot showing them glued up. Notice the recess (~1 mm) for the grill mesh. IMG_20180930_160941545.jpg
     
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  9. donprice

    donprice Wound up workin' at a gas station.... Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,376
    The expanded metal grill mesh gets 2-part epoxy to hold it in place. Here's one before the epoxy and I forgot the after shot. IMG_20180930_162309672.jpg

    George doing some QA/QC work and checking to see if I need more S-N Oktoberfest. IMG_20180930_180152348.jpg

    Here we are after some primer, paint, and glazing compound. IMG_20181006_141600853.jpg

    After some sanding we get this.... IMG_20181006_174910849.jpg

    More to follow once I get around to the fabric grill cloth.
     
  10. nedseg

    nedseg AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    491
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Beyond inspiring - you've done a stunning job of it!
    I'll be very interested in your observations about how it sounds compared to the B460.
    What is it's external/internal dim's/volume??
    If I hadn't stumbled on a bargain like new 4645C, I was going to go the DIY 2269 too...and now wonder if it might be worth it, if only for the space savings!
    Do you really think you need a sub with the M2s? (Yah, I know, stupid question?)
    As near as I can tell, I'm getting at least as good performance out of the 2216ND1s in my L200s as Scott is getting out of his DIY M2s (but I have a 'better' room), and those are stupendously tight down low....the 4645C can't quite match them, but does LOUD really well:)
    Kudos on your craftsmanship - please keep the 'good news' coming!!
     
  11. donprice

    donprice Wound up workin' at a gas station.... Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,376
    Thanks for the kind words!

    External ignoring the pedestal is about 31.75" wide x 28" tall x 26.25" deep which works out to an internal gross volume of about 11 ft^3. I think closer to 9 ft^ once you figure in the bracing, driver, and the rather large 5" diameter ports.

    Sound-wise I really can't say it is much different than the B460. It has more displacement, lower distortion, and more power available so I know I can get more output....but much like going from 250 to 350 hp in my truck, it makes no difference 99% of the time.

    The sub is more about want than need. I figured I might as well build something that matches the M2 clones since they are in the great room and part of every day.

    The house has an open great-room plan so I probably have 1200 ft^2 open to the system so the bass energy has lots of space to fill. No matter how capable the M2 clones are, I still like the idea of not worrying about them if the volume is cranked when aliens attack and blow something up. Later revisions of the M2 DSP curves include a 27 Hz high-pass filter (and current limiter?) to limit the risk of wrecking a 2216Nd when you pound the crap out of it with an iTech 5000 (beyond my budget or needs).

    I always wondered why JBL didn't build a "subwoofer" version of the 2242 similar to the 2245 vs 2240. I would be tempted to coat the 2242 cone with Duratex (hillbilly aquaplas) to increase the mass and shift the Fs lower. Tuning the 4645C cabinet lower is also an option for home use.
     
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  12. toddalin

    toddalin Super Member

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    2,322

    A 2241 makes a much better sub/stereo speaker than a 2242. I was looking for 2235s but the 2241 is not that far off for deep bass and the bass is much more tactle/real than the foam edge woofers. I wouldn't even consider the 2242. It's just a big loud bass driver. Mine are in ~6 cu feet.

    [​IMG]
     
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