JBL L100 restoration and upgrade

The L100s are one of the all time greatest speakers? That may be true. But was it great because it sounded good? Or was it great because of a successful marketing campaign that got it in a lot of recording studios?

Me, I found an interesting loudspeaker, and I am trying to fix it up, performing some upgrades along the way. What, should I have just parted it out like so many people do on eBay? 'Cos I could sure use the money...
I used to own a similar set of JBLs, the 4311 Control room monitors. They were without a doubt the most impressive sounding speakers I have ever owned. I don't remember there being anything wrong with their sound. They were quite impressive.

You can do what you want and have some fun along the way but if I were you I would probably restore the speakers to factory condition and maybe do some very slight tweaks to the crossovers. I just think this Jantzen crossover goes too far (it does a great job of selling their products, dare I say). I have designed my own crossover mod for my BIC DV62si speakers. In all my testing, I found the BIC engineers pretty much knew what they were doing. They were close but they just went cheap.
 
I have to say I really don't understand the reasoning behind these mods. JBL is a speaker company with a long history of knowing what they are doing. I have a feeling all that work and money for those Murphy crossovers will not be an improvement. One thing for sure, it will reduce the overall efficiency. These L100s are one of the all time greatest speakers. I don't see how the JBL engineers could have been so far off. Also that port plugging thing. All that will do is kill the bass.

Read and enjoy - I've plugged mine and the bass is still there, and a bit more lively as well:

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?12036-Acoustic-(Air)-Suspension
 
I got one midrange switch wired up today, not mounted on the plate (see above) only another five to go. I did this first since they sit between the woofer and tweeter switches, and won't be as easy to get to when they're all together. I couldn't wait, I had to hear what the difference was, so I connected it up with wires twisted here and there.

What I can tell you is the difference between the Murphy crossover and the JBL is staggering. With the JBL, it sounds like the midrange is the tweeter as well, there is FAR too much treble getting to it. I've just posted a request on a Freecycle web site I'm on for a microphone. If I can get hold of one, I'll post a video up on YouTube of the differences between the two crossovers.
 
Nice work Leesonic. I have been hoping for awhile now that someone would report on the crossover upgrades available for the L100's. The YouTube vids would be great!
 
I have to say I really don't understand the reasoning behind these mods. JBL is a speaker company with a long history of knowing what they are doing. I have a feeling all that work and money for those Murphy crossovers will not be an improvement. One thing for sure, it will reduce the overall efficiency. These L100s are one of the all time greatest speakers. I don't see how the JBL engineers could have been so far off. Also that port plugging thing. All that will do is kill the bass.

Dave,

Atwater Kent was also a company that knew what they were doing as well.

I may be alone, but I never cared for the sound of the JBL 100s that much. The crossover was very basic and, in hindsight perhaps, could have been better. Dennis Murphy has a phenomenal record doing crossover design and I believe that if he didn't think he could improve on the 100's crossover, he'd be the first to say so. I actually expect the Murphy crossover to be a quantum leap ahead of the stock crossover, as I'm also confident that a number of people on this forum wouldn't be stressed to come up with something quite a bit better as well. You might be surprised how poorly designed some crossovers are, and that's in some pretty expensive speaker ($5000 on up).

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
Very carefully! I laid the magnet down and lowered the basket/cone assembly onto it. It's surprisingly light without the magnet, must be the cast alloy basket.

another question..
did the magnet not stick to the basket on its own?
i imagine the magnet would fly up and attach itself to the bottom of the basket wherever most convinient for itself.
 
another question..
did the magnet not stick to the basket on its own?
i imagine the magnet would fly up and attach itself to the bottom of the basket wherever most convinient for itself.

Not when the basket is made of cast alloy, no. If it was a steel basket, that would be another story...
 
Crossover

I then turned my attention to the crossover. After looking around on the 'net, it looked like Dennis Murphy's crossover design was the way to go

Is there a schematic (without the multiple switches), and a parts list for this somewhere?

I'm also wondering what the cost of all these parts might be, and if anyone has auditioned this crossover setup.
 
Here is another update on my L100 project...

I mounted the new upgraded Murphy crossover board to the back panel, drilling the top holes with a Milwaukee 1/4 in right angle adapter I got from Home Depot (part number 48-32-2100) with a Craftsman drill bit with a 1/4 hex shank. I used some strips of foam insulation behind the board to stop it vibrating. You can see the new JBL spec crossover L-pads in the top of the picture, this was mounting using the orignal screw holes in the baffle (for the moment, I might fill these when I refinish the cabinets).

JBLassembly01.jpg

Here is a close-up of the terminal and switch plate. I tried to run every common or ground wire back to the negative terminal in a kind of star-earth way, that's why there are so many wires : 2 to the JBL spec crossovers, 3 to the Murphy crossover, 2 to the woofer and tweeter, 1 to the midrange switch.

JBLassembly02.jpg
JBLassembly05.jpg

I also replaced the old fibreglass insulation with some new acoustic wadding or cabinet damping.

JBLassembly06.jpg

Here is a view of the back panel, looks more business like now doesn't it?

JBLassembled08.jpg
JBLassembled10.jpg

And here they are fully assembled. I had to pull out one of the tweeter domes with a pin, so I sealed it using some "Wet Look" speaker paint from Parts Express. I did the woofer caps as well, since I had to remove one.

JBLassembled01.jpg
JBLassembled02.jpg
JBLassembled03.jpg

Before everything was buttoned up, I was able to play each driver on it's own, just to make sure I wired the switches the correct way. This revealed some interesting results...

The woofer reproduces a lot more midrange frequencies using the JBL crossover, these are rolled off with the Murphy. From the factory, it has no crossover components of any kind, relying on it's natural roll-off. Likewise, the tweeter reproduces more midrange frequencies with the JBL crossover than the Murphy. I hate to point the finger at the little guy in the middle, but I've already mentioned the midrange reproduces a lot more treble than it should in JBL crossover mode. What is also interesting is it seems to get more low frequencies as well. This was noticed using nothing more high tech than some dust that just happened to be sitting on the cone. With just this driver connected (hence no vibration from the woofer), switching from Murphy to JBL caused the dust to bounce off the cone. Actually, the speaker doesn't sound all that bad with just the woofer and tweeter connected using the JBL crossover, in a loudness button "boom and tizz" kind of way, less midrange.

Connecting all the drivers and placing them back in the cabinet, it is easy to hear the difference when switching crossovers. Going from high to low, and with the switches set to the Murphy crossover, here's what happens. Switching the tweeter over from the Murphy to the JBL crossover, now there's more midrange. Switching the midrange now there's more midrange and even more treble, switching the woofer over adds even more midrange. It's easy to see why this speaker is impressive when you first hear it, there's so much attack because all three drivers are having a go.

What's weird is the midrange interaction with the woofer. I don't know what you call it, but we all know the sound a pair of out-of-phase speakers make. That weird sound like it's coming from behind you, or inside your head, it's kind of hard to describe. I've been to peoples houses (who should know better) and told them one of their speakers is wired back to front. Of course they deny it, then when they check, it is. I've been to HiFi shops, record shops, heard car systems, and can easily tell when a speaker is wired up wrong. Well, I had each of these L100s lying on their backs on the floor with a piece of wood propping them up so I could switch between crossovers. Switching from the Murphy to the JBL crossover on the midrange, with the woofer set on the JBL crossover, sure enough you can hear the fact that the midrange is wired out-of-phase. This obviously isn't helped by the fact that they have such an overlap. This doesn't happen using the Murphy crossover.

These are just initial observations, I need to get them set up properly and get down to some serious listening...
 
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Very cool ideas going on here. Those baffles look like they could stand another coat or three of matte black.
 
Very cool ideas going on here. Those baffles look like they could stand another coat or three of matte black.

You know, I'm in two minds what to do with the cabinets, but the weather has to warm up a bit first.

I'd like to restore the original cabinets, but like the cars I work on, I can't resist modifying things. I thought about re-veneering the cabs, and maybe veneering the front and rear panels? Then I thought about keeping the black baffle, but painting it gloss black so it shines. I'd like to move the offset peg as well because it looks weird to me. I'm planning on making some custom grilles, and the original grille has a hole for the peg in the other position anyway. Or then there's the option of making completely new cabinets...
 
The cabs look fine to me. I wouldn't bother with the peg, either.
Great work!

So months later....

HOW DO THEY SOUND??? :D
 
leesonic, update ?

Great thread and workmanship!

BTW--- all you need to do now is add some SUPER Tweeters and you'll have a 'real' speaker; an HPM 100 ;)
 
Hi,
great work. Nicely done. I just added an inductor to the mid and lower cap to the tweet of my 4311s and left it at that.
As for my HPM 100s, a much more drastic mod similar to yours was needed.
Now they're worthy of serious listening.

Stan
 
Sorry I haven't posted an update in a while. With the Murphy crossovers, they really have mellowed out, more like an iron fist in a velvet glove. A lot of the brashness is gone, and I think that was all down to all three drivers having a go at once. I can't remember what the total cost of the crossovers was, but it was less than the Jantzen one for sale at Parts Express. I shopped around, buying most of the crossover components from Erse Audio, and the other parts from Parts Express.

I wish I could say I had some fancy speaker stands, but at the moment they are sitting on top of my DCM KX10s (another underrated speaker, and available for much cheaper than L100s). If my Mission 770s didn't have the weird terminals on the bottom, they would be standing on them, or being stood on by them.

Even though I have them in corners, close to the walls, I don't consider the bass a problem. Maybe I like big, boomy bass? Any speaker with "free bass", as in you don't need to use the bass control, is a good speaker IMHO. Maybe that's why I didn't like the Bozak 301s or Kenwood KL-6090s I used to own.

Lee.
 
Hi,
Really great work. I love it.
Are you keeping the old wires in the speaker? What about their sound quality?

Micahel L

Thank you for your compliments, I do try. All the wires were replaced when I did the crossovers.

Lee.
 
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