Just a question about recapping an X-1000R--

rob Brandt

Active Member
I have one and it's fine although I think it's time for a new belt.

Now, given its age and whatnot and given that nothing lasts forever, I want to recap it. I'm not a hack and can do this, and then take it over to the tech at Hi Fi Sound in minneapolis and get it re biased for new RTM tape and etc.

So, I asked this question on another site and got pounded with my need to ship it across country to have so and so do it and all about how the motors go bad (I knew that ten years ago and bought a spare and know better than to let it sit running with the tape tension set........), etc.

I really want to do this myself and have the full manuals for the deck. I took it all apart in 2008 when I bought it from the LA PD and cleaned it all up (my god was there a lot of nicotine in there), lubed everything and put a new belt in it. I also installed all new heads, roughly aligned them and then had the tech at hi fi finish it. I used the red recording heads. But I need some pointers on it--which caps to use, etc.

S0, what do you guys think, is it doable? I've done an awful lot of soldering in my life. Learned how to do it in 7th or 8th grade in shop class. I have a 10 watt soldering iron and use silver bearing solder.
 
I would suggest you don't re-cap it until it actually needs attention. We have a mixed opinion on this because there ARE certain decks you SHOULD re-cap on sight.
The X1000 series isn't one of them. Not yet, it's not old enough.

But if you feel you need to do something, it is always a good idea to start with the power supply to make sure it's in good shape. EVERYTHING hangs on it, so it makes sense.
The rest.... well, if it meets specs and a test tape shows that the response is still good.... maybe defer that for a while.

I'd clean and lube the motors, though.
 
Thanks--

Other than that I think I need a new belt and can't figure out where to get one--Marrs seems weird these days and I've read teac doesn't have them at the moment.....
I figured I'd clean and lube the motors when I put in the new belt. Truth is, is I stopped using it for a while. Belt is old and likely stretched a bit from sitting--not from use.

So, they have better caps than average? I know my Marantz power caps were all okay in my 250's and 240's. Can't remember about all the others but I don't remember the big caps being replaced on any of them either.
 
Thanks--

Other than that I think I need a new belt and can't figure out where to get one--Marrs seems weird these days and I've read teac doesn't have them at the moment.....
I figured I'd clean and lube the motors when I put in the new belt. Truth is, is I stopped using it for a while. Belt is old and likely stretched a bit from sitting--not from use.

So, they have better caps than average? I know my Marantz power caps were all okay in my 250's and 240's. Can't remember about all the others but I don't remember the big caps being replaced on any of them either.

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would agree with Tinman...stick in a new belt, clean the solenoid mechanisms that engage the tape with the capstans...

If you want to be sure, remove a few of the power supply caps and test them for ESR. would bet they are still good.

would suggest you add a bypass film cap to each of the electrolytic audio coupling caps. sonically the deck will take a big leap.

may want to also check the take up reel tension. These machines can sometimes have that tension come off spec....which will end up winding your tape very loosely.

best
 
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would agree with Tinman...stick in a new belt, clean the solenoid mechanisms that engage the tape with the capstans...

If you want to be sure, remove a few of the power supply caps and test them for ESR. would bet they are still good.

would suggest you add a bypass film cap to each of the electrolytic audio coupling caps. sonically the deck will take a big leap.

may want to also check the take up reel tension. These machines can sometimes have that tension come off spec....which will end up winding your tape very loosely.

best

Will do--I'm bidding on a couple of cap testers on epray. I did do he cleaning and lubing when I got the beast--came from LA PD and was so full of nicotine. I had ot soak the face plate hex bolts in denatured alcohol for days to get rid of the stains.
 
Clean the motors BEFORE you check tension. This is the typical mistake people make. The loss of tension is caused by dirty commutators.
Trouble begins when "pros" turn up the tension pots and end up burning out the drive transistors INSTEAD of cleaning the motors.
 
Tension is fine. Even at high speed RW, FF, the tape spools perfectly. But, I will clean everything inside once i get the new belt.
 
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