Just got me a Yamaha CR-1020 but.........

[merrylander]

The pushbutton switches stay on the faceplate it is the three LEDs that hold things up. I usually slide a knife under the rubber holder and carefully peel it away. Have to be careful with the LEDs because they are unique to Yamaha and NLA so you don't want to break the tips off. A bit of crazy glue when the time comes to put the rubber holder back.

Note, there is a slight amount of play side to side on the faceplate, quite possibly it was binding on the power switch.

 

[lha1992]

Note, there is a slight amount of play side to side on the faceplate, quite possibly it was binding on the power switch.

More than likely so, but at least the switch works now which is good.

I cleaned all the switches and the one that I thought I cleaned but couldn't really get was the mode switch for stereo, reverse, etc. because that switch is under the board that the pushbutton switches sit on and now I may have to open it back up and clean it.

But I can live with it until I get some new lamps for it.
By the way, what are the types of bulbs I have to put in this receiver? Also, would you say putting some Watco danish natural oil on the wood case to freshen it up would be good?

 

[lha1992]

Forgot to ask but does the 2 little heat sinks on the board where the relay is supposed to get hot? Mine does.

 

[Robisme]

Yes, they get hot.

Rob

 

[archie2]

"And also, for some reason the WPC meters don't work, but when I push the button for the tuner signal it works? So, if any of you could help me get this thing going would be great?

Thanks"

The signal strength meter works off of body capacitance. When you touch the tuning knob one of the sp out meters changes into a signal strength meter and back again when you release your touch. Dunno if this is the issue you're talking about though.

 

[merrylander]

The lamps are 12V 60mA see Dave (dgwojo) for same. As near as I can tell the original finish was some type of varnish or lacquer so oil would not penetrate. If the case has no bad knicks I have stripped the varnish in some cases, sanded lightly and refinished with poly or oil.

That meter switch is mounted on a small PC board that holds the driver transistors for the meters, it may only be a dirty switch. On the front of the relay board are two variable resistors used to calibrate the meters. They may also be dirty. Carefully mark their position with a sharpie and move theme back and forth a bit, then set them back where they were, it they are the problem that should make contact again.

 

[lha1992]

Well when I was doing some cleaning to the CR-1020 I noticed that the tuning wheel was coming out of the gang thing and when I would tune down from 108 FM to 88 FM it would stop at 98 FM. So I tried to push it back it and these two litte pieces came out and the tuning string was all messed up.

I guess I re-strung it right but I can't get those two little pieces back in at all. I think I might as well take the receiver down to my tech and have him re-string it and align it for me. And whenever I would see that the string was okay and not getting caught it would kinda come out of the gang thing. Is it supposed to do this? I mean it worked before but when I was cleaning the switches i was checking the tuner and it wouldn't tune past 98 so.

 

[merrylander]

That was a weak point in those Alps tuner heads and getting those bits back in their proper place can be a real PITA. The whole gear head assembly is heal in place with two small screw. Is yours the style where the black pulley is held with two screws or does it just push onto a knurled shaft? I have spares but not certain if I have both varieties.

 

[lha1992]

Sorry I haven't updated this lately, have been busy with school and sports and now my school is Wesco South Wrestling Champions which is great!!

Anyway, I guess mine is the one with the black pulley being held onto the shaft with two screws?

Heres some pics of the wheel and the shaft, sorry about the crappy pics I didn't have my camera.

http://s840.photobucket.com/albums/zz323/lha1992/?action=view&current=01302010294.jpg
http://s840.photobucket.com/albums/zz323/lha1992/?action=view&current=01302010295.jpg
http://s840.photobucket.com/albums/zz323/lha1992/?action=view&current=01302010296.jpg

Also, I just want to know is the volume knob supposed to be really loose? And does anyone have a input selector wedge knob and a tone presence knob?

 

[merrylander]

It sounds like the hex nut on the volume control is loose as it should not wobble about. The only way to tighten it is removal of the faceplate. To do that you need a 2mm Allen wrench to get the selector knobs and the tuning knob off (a 5/64" Allen will do). When removing the faceplate you must be careful of the LEDs on the left side, they are an odd shape and it is very easy to break the tips off and they are no longer available. I usually slip a sharp knife under the black rubber holder and separate it from the faceplate , top and bottom, then pull the whole assembly straight back. Pushing on the exposed tips of the LEDs helps in case they have stuck to the faceplate. The whole assembly can go back with crazy glue.

 

[lha1992]

Well I figured out the problem with the volume knob. The volume control was not wobbling or anything on the subframe. I figued out that when I put the face plate back on it did not seat all the way to the sub-frame and when I would put the balance knob on it would not go all the way on which made the volume knob wiggle because it was not on all the way.

 

[brutal]

Well I figured out the problem with the volume knob. The volume control not wobbling or anything on the subframe. I figued out that when I put the face plate back on it did not seat all the way to the sub-frame and when I would put the balance knob on it would not go all the way on which made the volume knob wiggle because it was not on all the way.

Good find.

Hint, I use a business card or two behind all the knobs to keep them all the same distance away from the faceplate as I tighten the setscrews. Anything with a slightly wonky shaft gets 2 cards thickness.

 

[lha1992]

Good find.

Hint, I use a business card or two behind all the knobs to keep them all the same distance away from the faceplate as I tighten the setscrews. Anything with a slightly wonky shaft gets 2 cards thickness.

Thanks Brutal for the tip!

Now what do ya'll say I do about the tuner wheel? I'm just gonna take it into the tech I might as well.

 

[merrylander]

OK, you need a selector (flat) knob, a tone control knob (round) and the gear drive for the tuning head. PM me your mailing address and I'll put them in the mail. Sometime when you have extra cash you can make a donation to AK, oh and mail me back the old gear and all the bits since I know how to put them together.

 

[lha1992]

OK, you need a selector (flat) knob, a tone control knob (round) and the gear drive for the tuning head. PM me your mailing address and I'll put them in the mail. Sometime when you have extra cash you can make a donation to AK, oh and mail me back the old gear and all the bits since I know how to put them together.

PM sent and thank you!

 

[lha1992]

Update: So I've had the CR-1020 in my main system since about wednesday or thursday, and let me tell you I LOVE IT!!! I want to find a CR-2020 or even the BIG one the CR-3020!

I'm getting use to the sound, different from my Marantz 2230b and more power than the 2230b! Which I like.

I do have to go back in and do another deoxit cleaning I think. It still drops out sometimes in the left, I still didn't do those 2 little pots for the meters. And when its in aux, phono, or tuner the sound is level on both channels but in tape 1 and 2 its a little weak in the left. I guess that just may be me because I've been sick with a cold the past few days, UHHH.

One more thing, I know there is no DC offset adjustment, but can you check to see if theirs any DC at the outputs? I remember Mr. Rob saying that you could test some points on the power supply board but do not know which ones to check? Also, when I power off I hear a thump so before I turn the switch, I turn the speakers off.

Anyway, I think i'm hooked!!!

 

[merrylander]

You can get Deoxit into the muting switch beside the tuning knob through the tiny hole in the brown plastic, common spot for channel probs. Either power amp module measure from the brown or yellow wire to chassis those are the two output points.

 

[ssmith3046]

It's really easy to get hooked on the Yamaha sound. I've been using a 1020 for my daily receiver now for some time. I wanted to give it a rest and try something different so I found a really clean Marantz 2250 in a really nice wooden cabinet. After $115.00 repar bill from my local shop it works perfect. I'm still getting used to the Marantz sound and experimenting with the tone control. The Yamaha has such an open and "natural" sound. I really love it.

 

[lha1992]

You can get Deoxit into the muting switch beside the tuning knob through the tiny hole in the brown plastic, common spot for channel probs. Either power amp module measure from the brown or yellow wire to chassis those are the two output points.

Your talking about the -25 +25 points to the ground right in front of them? Okay then, I will check those are report back.

 

[merrylander]

No, I meant on the power amp boards on the big heatsinks in the center, where you put your meter to set the idle current, The TP0 point with no wire on it is connected to one of the emitter resistord, the brown or yellow wire next to it is the output from the amplifiers and is ahead of the protection relay. Whether a unit comes out of protection or not you can always measure for DC on the output by putting your meter between the brown wire and the chassis, or between the yellow wire and the chassis.