Just unexpectedly won a Rek-O-Kut B-12-H (!!)

beatcomber

AK Member
I've been sort of looking for a new project, aiming to add another 3-speed idler deck (to sort of take the place of the TD-124), but didn't want to spend an arm and a leg.

I just saw on eBay a Rek-O-Kut B-12-H with a starting price of $180 and a "make offer" option, so I offered $20 over the start price, and whaddya know, it was instantly accepted.

It looks to be pretty clean, and has the Papst motor, which I'm guessing is the best version of the B12 to have. I look forward to tearing it down and building a stacked plinth.

For an arm, I still have my Grado Lab Series wood arm, which @marcmorin helped me recondition, so I'll use that; hopefully it will be a drop-in fit.

Stay tuned...
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A nice late model B 12-H. Hysteresis motor equipped. Appears to be complete and in nice condition to begin with, so a nice restoration candidate. You did fine for $200. It's likely as good if not better than the TD 124 is. My McMartin/QRK TT 12-C with Shure M 232 tonearm outperformed the TD 124 I had on loan for a short time, and doesn't need 45 minutes of warm up time to get accurate speed out of. And low or lower rumble than this Thorens had. Arm on the Thorens was nicer. But the Shure arm I use is just fine.
 
Doing some research, it looks like the mounting hole for the Rek-O-Kut Micropoise arm that seems to have been on this table has a spindle-to-pivot distance of 209.55mm, and the Grado is spec'd for 207.96mm, which is a 1.59mm (0.0625") difference. Close enough!
 
Nice looking Rek O Kut! It should clean up nicely and serve you well.

Nothing wrong with the Pabst motor, but the Ashland motor from the B12H Rondine Deluxe was the TOTL. It's a beast of a motor, intended for broadcast duty.

I'm still looking for an appropriate tonearm for mine. Sounds like you are set with the Grado. Which model do you have? Mine came with an incomplete Micropoise S320 (missing the headshell and anti-skate weight). Not sure if it's worth the cost to obtain the missing parts. So, I'm always on the lookout for something else.
 
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Nice looking Rek O Kut! It should clean up nicely and serve you well.

Nothing wrong with the Pabst motor, but the Ashland motor from the B12H Rondine Deluxe was the TOTL. It's a beast of a motor, intended for broadcast duty.

I'm still looking for an appropriate tonearm for mine. Sounds like you are set with the Grado. Which model do you have? Mine came with an incomplete Micropoise S220. Not sure if it's worth the cost to obtain the missing parts. So, I'm always on the lookout for something else.

This is the Grado that I have, a near mint Laboratory Series with Cardas interconnects. I ran it for a while on the TD-124 and liked it a lot.

rIf4ep4.jpg
 
This is the Grado that I have, a near mint Laboratory Series with Cardas interconnects. I ran it for a while on the TD-124 and liked it a lot.

rIf4ep4.jpg

That is a BEAUTIFUL arm. It should be a great match for your Rek O Kut. I can't wait to see how it all turns out.

What cartridge do you intend to use with it?
 
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That is a BEAUTIFUL arm. It should be a great match for your Rek O Kut. I can't wait to see how it all turns out.

What cartridge do you intend to use with it?

Hmmm, I haven't yet thought that far ahead! Something that can take a 78 stylus.
 
Hi Davey :)......................That's all glenn needs is a little prodding from the sidelines.........:p...........how's that island of yours doing?

Excellent! Weather has been surprisingly good over the last two months and we've been making the most of it
Email sent :deal:
 
Nice score. I like the look of these broadcast machines, they're just very solid without looking excessively industrial. Professional I guess is a good way of putting it, they gave at least a few nods to making it look decent without giving up anything on it's reliability.
 
Hmmm, I haven't yet thought that far ahead! Something that can take a 78 stylus.

I'm not familiar with that arm, but something like a Sure SC35C, might work for you. It accepts a variety of stylus options in stock form, including a 78 stylus, or a LOT more options if you repot it in a Paradox Pulse body.
 
Congrats! Beautiful table—the B-12GH was redesigned by the office of George Nelson, so there’s a storied design history there:
http://www.georgenelsonfoundation.org/george-nelson/works/rek-o-kut-and-audax-145.html

I have one that has been on the back burner since I got my TD-124 (kind of the opposite of your process, lol) but I’m hoping to put it in 78 service at some point. Your Lab Series is going to be killer on it!
:beerchug:
Don’t know if you have this link, but I found it pretty interesting:
http://jelabsarch.blogspot.com/2012/06/rek-o-kut-tips.html?m=1
 
Nice score! I like these decks. Be prepared to disassemble it and tinker with it to bring it back to operating spec. Yours has the German Papst motor also used in the Empire 208s. It's a highly regarded motor.

Observations/suggestions:

1. A mass plinth is your best friend with these decks.
2. Based on the 41,xxx serial number, yours was likely manufactured circa 1960.
3. Yours is a transitional model. It still has the red lens over the neon pilot light used in the early models. By 1963, the pilot light changed to orange with a clear plastic lens for higher brightness. Yours also has the pop up 45 rpm adapter, which was deleted by 1963.
4. With a microfiber cloth, try a natural degreaser or Simple Green on a small section of the top plate and see if the grime comes off. It may clean up nicely.
5. Have the idler wheel rebuilt.
6. Install new motor mounts (by Lord). I think there are 7.
7. When you have everything taken apart to install the motor mount grommets, clean off the old dried grease with isopropyl alchohol. Regrease the sliding parts with white lithium grease.
8. Clean the main bearing with isopropyl alcohol. Add 3-in-1 oil (blue label) in the bearing well so it's just over the ball bearing.
9. Inspect the ball bearing to make sure it's ok. It's probably a 1/4" ball bearing.
10. Speed adjustment - there is a nut under the speed selector. You will need a wrench to adjust it and "slide" the switch shaft to fine tune the speed. It's based on idler pressure on the pulley. Your wrench appears to be missing.
 
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