JVC/ Nivico SRP-471E-3

Glad to hear that it is running at steady speed. I have been playing around with mine and have decided that I need someone to do some more work on it than I am prepared or qualified to do. My secondary idler wheel is making noise when I spin it free hand. It might just need some lube, but when I was looking at the innards with the platter off and the motor running, I noticed that the main idler wheel was only making contact with the motor shaft with about a third of the idler. There is an adjusment screw that allowed me to change the height of the idler to allow it to make fuller contact. After I did that then the secondary idler wheel started making some sounds.

I still have some rumble and a hum. I noticed that what seemed to be a ground wire was no longer connected to a tab that the other channel tonearm ground wire was connected to. It is a very fine wire. I was able to solder it, but I am still getting some hum. The RCA connects have been replaced previously and I really don't like the soldering job that was done there. Nor do I like the RCA connects that were used.

So I am looking around for someone who can do some of this work correctly. I do love the dynamic sound that the turntable produces. This is the idler drive sound that I have with my Elac Miracord tables. The Nivico also has a uniquely handsome retro look that I really like. Is it ever going to sound like my Mitsubishi LT-30 with a nice LOMC cartridge on it. NO..... but it has that sound quaility that is appealing in its own way that is unique to this table. It is also a fairly rare table so I am going to keep it around. I just need to get it playing the way it should sound.

Last question. There is one thing that I have noticed about mine that bothers me also, and that is the fact that the threaded sleeve that is at the end of the tonearm that threads over a standard 1/2 inch cartridge is somewhat loose and less that stable. I have to fiddle around with it to get the cartridge and stylus aligned in a true perpendicular orientation with the lp that I am trying to play. The fact that it is somewhat loose also makes me wonder if it is contributing to the hum that I am hearing. Just a thought.
 
Glad to hear that it is running at steady speed. I have been playing around with mine and have decided that I need someone to do some more work on it than I am prepared or qualified to do. My secondary idler wheel is making noise when I spin it free hand. It might just need some lube, but when I was looking at the innards with the platter off and the motor running, I noticed that the main idler wheel was only making contact with the motor shaft with about a third of the idler. There is an adjusment screw that allowed me to change the height of the idler to allow it to make fuller contact. After I did that then the secondary idler wheel started making some sounds.

I still have some rumble and a hum. I noticed that what seemed to be a ground wire was no longer connected to a tab that the other channel tonearm ground wire was connected to. It is a very fine wire. I was able to solder it, but I am still getting some hum. The RCA connects have been replaced previously and I really don't like the soldering job that was done there. Nor do I like the RCA connects that were used.

So I am looking around for someone who can do some of this work correctly. I do love the dynamic sound that the turntable produces. This is the idler drive sound that I have with my Elac Miracord tables. The Nivico also has a uniquely handsome retro look that I really like. Is it ever going to sound like my Mitsubishi LT-30 with a nice LOMC cartridge on it. NO..... but it has that sound quaility that is appealing in its own way that is unique to this table. It is also a fairly rare table so I am going to keep it around. I just need to get it playing the way it should sound.

Last question. There is one thing that I have noticed about mine that bothers me also, and that is the fact that the threaded sleeve that is at the end of the tonearm that threads over a standard 1/2 inch cartridge is somewhat loose and less that stable. I have to fiddle around with it to get the cartridge and stylus aligned in a true perpendicular orientation with the lp that I am trying to play. The fact that it is somewhat loose also makes me wonder if it is contributing to the hum that I am hearing. Just a thought.

Mine is tight and feels like new when i use it. The knurled knob at the end of the arm that is. I also figured out where my rumble was coming from. The bearing had some old grease on it that was caked on. I cleaned the bearing and re-aplied some new oil and now its much more quiet now. I hope you get all your issues situated, i believe this table will blow your mind.
 
I am glad your tonearm cartridge sleeve is okay. Are you talking about the tonearm bearing when you say you fixed the rumble that you were hearing? I am beginning to wonder if mine is worth the effort. Thanks for the info.
 
I am glad your tonearm cartridge sleeve is okay. Are you talking about the tonearm bearing when you say you fixed the rumble that you were hearing? I am beginning to wonder if mine is worth the effort. Thanks for the info.

The platter bearing. And trust me it is worth the effort.
 
Ok, so here is the latest. This turntable is 100% functional, but i notice a bit of rumble in between tracks. My main idler (not drive wheel) is a bit warped. Probably from heat. Im going to get this idler either rebuilt, or buy a new one. Anyone else have a warped idler? Sort of spins like a record with the hole off center. Still holds speed well due to the drive wheel as the idler contacts that and the capstan/pulley only.
 
Glad to hear that you have the table completely restored. I kind of put mine aside for a while to play with some other tables that I have that required attention. I love the looks of the machine and the dynamic sound that it produces. I will revisit it soon as I do have the replacement capacitor that is required to keep the speed steady. Can you tell me how difficult it was to desolder the existing capacitor and resolder in a new one? I am not an experienced person when it comes to the soldering iron. I am still also concerned with the tonearm and head shell connector that seems less than stable. It's a very rare table that really piques my interest and continues to sit in the project queue. Still a little hesitant about the suggested 2-3 gram vtf's for this table and the related limitation in cartridge selection that that specification causes. I have run cartridges at 1.25 on my Elac 50h and 50h ii, which do have a metal tonearms, not plastic, and they have tracked wonderfully. I have very few cartridges that require VTF's of more than 2 grams.
 
Glad to hear that you have the table completely restored. I kind of put mine aside for a while to play with some other tables that I have that required attention. I love the looks of the machine and the dynamic sound that it produces. I will revisit it soon as I do have the replacement capacitor that is required to keep the speed steady. Can you tell me how difficult it was to desolder the existing capacitor and resolder in a new one? I am not an experienced person when it comes to the soldering iron. I am still also concerned with the tonearm and head shell connector that seems less than stable. It's a very rare table that really piques my interest and continues to sit in the project queue. Still a little hesitant about the suggested 2-3 gram vtf's for this table and the related limitation in cartridge selection that that specification causes. I have run cartridges at 1.25 on my Elac 50h and 50h ii, which do have a metal tonearms, not plastic, and they have tracked wonderfully. I have very few cartridges that require VTF's of more than 2 grams.

If you dont feel confident in soldering the new capacitor id leave it to a tech to do. As far as tracking force, i track at 3 grams and always have with all my tables and im yet to damage a record. Aa long as you have a good arm with the right alignment its impossible to ruin a record. I absolutely love the stock cartridge. Its very dynamic and with the right stylus bests my Nagaoka MP-100 easily. The Nagaoka tracks nicely at 1.8 grams on the Nivico so it can handle lighter tracking.
 
You are right. There are a number of things with my table that need to be looked at in addition to the capacitor replacement. It is, however, a challenge to find qualified people to work on these types of turntables. Any suggestions for people with this talent in the NY metro area would be highly appreciated. I have tried a couple, after searching online, and have yet to find anyone that I would personally recommend. I really wish that I had the capability to do the required repairs. Glad to hear that you have your table in order and are enjoying it. I have a number of tables and enjoy rotating them through the number one listening spot. So I guess I have been a bit slow in addressing the problems that I have with my Nivico. I am convinced, thanks to this thread, and all the helpful posts, that my table is worth having an evaluation done by qualified person.
 
If you are inexperienced at soldering then gain some experience. Practice, practice, practice. Last year I taught my two grand daughters (aged 9 and 10) how to solder. It only took about an hour to teach them the fundamentals. Then I made a practice wooden board with some terminal lug strips screwed to it for them to practice on. Then had them practice soldering resistors (because they are cheap and I have lots) to a piece of proto pcb with solder pad per hole I got from Ebay. Then I got them each a digital clock kit from Ebay-about $4. They each assembled their clocks and they worked perfectly. If they can do it, so can you.
Practice, practice, practice.
Rick
 
If you dont feel confident in soldering the new capacitor id leave it to a tech to do.

Most motor run caps are set up for push-on crimp connectors. Just buy the cap and hit the local auto store for crimp terminals. It is non-polarized so you really can't screw it up.

Most old TTs will benefit from a new motor cap and if the cap is bad, it will never work correctly. I use GEs from ebay.
 
This arm looks a lot like an SME,perhapswithout the knife edge bearing. can anyone comment on the similarity?

Maybe more photos?
 
This arm looks a lot like an SME,perhapswithout the knife edge bearing. can anyone comment on the similarity?

Maybe more photos?

Which similarities are you referring to? :idea:

Very intriguing.

Yes, please post photographs of the SME model in question.
 
Admittedly it's a bit of a reach, but the time period (mid 60's) is correct, so my guess is proto-JVC here was "inspired" by the venerable SME 3009:
SME3009II.JPG
 
Admittedly it's a bit of a reach, but the time period (mid 60's) is correct, so my guess is proto-JVC here was "inspired" by the venerable SME 3009:

The Japanese industry was renowned for making excellent "improvements"/low cost copies during that time. :rolleyes:
 
The arm on the Nivico is similar, but the bearing is quite different. I can honestly say the Nivico SRP-471E-3 is one of the best sounding tables ive ever heard. Im guessing due to the arm.
 
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