Gingahippy
Active Member
Hi, folks.
I'll begin by saying that I am not electrically gifted, but I can repair and replace if I know what I am looking for.
Anyway, I have a Kenwood KA-9100 that has a gentle static crackle with hiss in the R channel.
Here is how it behaves:
Crackling/ hiss in R channel, stays the same regardless of :
- A/B speakers
- Volume / Balance
- input connected or not
- Aux/Tape/phono input
- Only happens when speaker is connected.
- Tone control affects sound of crackle, can raise/lower treble of the static.
- Gone when Tone Defeat is ON
- Switching the switch on rear from Normal to Separate also stops it.
I understand from reading other threads this implies it is somewhere in the preamp section. I admit to not actually knowing where that is.
I have cleaned all switches and pots with DeOxit/Faderlube but will repeat this evening, including the Normal/Separate switch.
I do have a reconditioned power supply board that I got from ebay, it was a mistake purchase but since I've got it may as well use it. My question regarding that board is would it be easier to try and pull all those little spring like coils off the pins that connect the board or just to leave it connected and use the new caps to populate the existing board? I can handle a soldering iron well enough. If I can fix this problem then a basic recap is in order.
I'll begin by saying that I am not electrically gifted, but I can repair and replace if I know what I am looking for.
Anyway, I have a Kenwood KA-9100 that has a gentle static crackle with hiss in the R channel.
Here is how it behaves:
Crackling/ hiss in R channel, stays the same regardless of :
- A/B speakers
- Volume / Balance
- input connected or not
- Aux/Tape/phono input
- Only happens when speaker is connected.
- Tone control affects sound of crackle, can raise/lower treble of the static.
- Gone when Tone Defeat is ON
- Switching the switch on rear from Normal to Separate also stops it.
I understand from reading other threads this implies it is somewhere in the preamp section. I admit to not actually knowing where that is.
I have cleaned all switches and pots with DeOxit/Faderlube but will repeat this evening, including the Normal/Separate switch.
I do have a reconditioned power supply board that I got from ebay, it was a mistake purchase but since I've got it may as well use it. My question regarding that board is would it be easier to try and pull all those little spring like coils off the pins that connect the board or just to leave it connected and use the new caps to populate the existing board? I can handle a soldering iron well enough. If I can fix this problem then a basic recap is in order.