KEF 104.2 Lacking Bass

Get yourself a AA battery and a short piece of speaker wire, color coded preferably. Touch the + terminal of the battery to the wire going to the positive terminal of the speaker, and the same with the - terminal. You will hear a click from the speaker. Do this several times and watch what the woofers do through the large port. You may need a small mirror to see the upper woofer. It may also be helpful to have an assistant do the thing with the battery.

What you should see is the lower woofer cone move upwards when the battery is connected, and the upper one move downwards. Or vice versa. What they shouldn't do is both move up or both move down. Report back with your findings.

Lee.
 
Get yourself a AA battery and a short piece of speaker wire, color coded preferably. Touch the + terminal of the battery to the wire going to the positive terminal of the speaker, and the same with the - terminal. You will hear a click from the speaker. Do this several times and watch what the woofers do through the large port. You may need a small mirror to see the upper woofer. It may also be helpful to have an assistant do the thing with the battery.

What you should see is the lower woofer cone move upwards when the battery is connected, and the upper one move downwards. Or vice versa. What they shouldn't do is both move up or both move down. Report back with your findings.

Lee.

No f'n way. You are a genius my friend. I did what you said and sure enough, on the speaker lacking bass the woofers move in the same direction! I swear I checked all the connections when I had it open the other day. Is there another way a speaker could be out of phase without just crossing the wires? Should I just swap the connections on the PCB? I tested the working speaker and both woofers push "in" when I connect the battery but on the malfunctioning one the bottom woofer moves down along with the top one. By the power of deduction I believe the bottom woofer to be out of phase. How do I fix this?

Thank you!
 
According to the crossover diagram, the lower woofer is wired positive to negative .
The upper woofer in normal polarity, + to + and - to -.
The top woofer is easy access to swap polarity and see if that works out.
 
So I opened them back up and everything seems to be connected correctly to me...





I guess it's possible that the little red sticker that indicates the positive terminal may have been stuck in the wrong place. Thoughts?
 
According to the crossover diagram, the lower woofer is wired positive to negative .
The upper woofer in normal polarity, + to + and - to -.
The top woofer is easy access to swap polarity and see if that works out.

AH! That explains it! So I just have to swap the terminals on the PCB?
 
AH! That explains it! So I just have to swap the terminals on the PCB?
Give it a try, perhaps the lower woofer is also wired with "normal" polarity.
Also you can do the battery test to see whether the cone sucks in or pushes out to id the wiring sequence.
 
IT WORKED!

Still curious how the wiring got messed up. but WOW! BASS! I missed you so much. Baba O' Riley here I come!

Thanks for all your help sorting this out, gentlemen. I'll report back again on how they sound after the re-cap.

I can't say enough how helpful everyone on this forum has been. Thank you for being patient with me, I know I am a total noob.

Cheers!
 
Get yourself a AA battery and a short piece of speaker wire, color coded preferably. Touch the + terminal of the battery to the wire going to the positive terminal of the speaker, and the same with the - terminal. You will hear a click from the speaker. Do this several times and watch what the woofers do through the large port. You may need a small mirror to see the upper woofer. It may also be helpful to have an assistant do the thing with the battery.

What you should see is the lower woofer cone move upwards when the battery is connected, and the upper one move downwards. Or vice versa. What they shouldn't do is both move up or both move down. Report back with your findings.

Lee.

What a great idea and simple trick. Somebody suggested that to me 40 years ago to make sure I wired the speakers in a car. I'd completely forgotten about it.

Glad it revealed the problem :thumbsup:



BTW, Lee did the cap replacement for me on my 104/2 xovers and did a great job!

Once the full restoration was completed a few months back the 104/2 are getting more front line duty that some other (more expensive) speakers. They are really good when restored.

Random question on the lack of bass thing: are the aluminum connecting rods still in place that tie the bass drivers together?


I bought a pair of Kef 104/2's that were a basket case about 11 years ago. I didn't really know what I was getting and never should have purchased them. The paper cones were actually torn. AK members "BrassTeacher" and "GordonW" worked on them together and salvaged them. At that point in time they recommended leaving the crossovers alone.

About a year ago I took them apart and sent the crossovers to Lee and he replaced the caps with ones he got from Falcon. The finished product sings. They should be good for another 20-30 years
 
Very informative thread! I'm glad that the OP got it sorted out. Makes me wonder if I have my woofers wired properly... It's been a while since I did my donuts and ferrofluid. Are the wires distinctly marked for reverse polarity on the one woofer? I had my woofers out when i was working on them, but didn't touch the crossovers. I suppose I will just have to do the battery test mentioned above.
 
I just skimmed this because I skim any thread about the 104/2 because I absolutely love mine.

Glad you got it worked out.
 
Are the wires distinctly marked for reverse polarity on the one woofer? I had my woofers out when i was working on them, but didn't touch the crossovers. I suppose I will just have to do the battery test mentioned above.

I am still a little confused by this because I don't think I should have to plug the - in to the + terminal and vice versa. I guess the PO soldered the wires on the bottom woofer to the appropriate terminals, but if I understand correctly they are supposed to be reversed? So to compensate I switched the terminals on the crossover. Still not sure it's right, but it works.
 
He must have. The wiring to driver polarity is positive to positive, negative to negative on mine. Mine are the early, single terminal, rubber surround version FWIW.
 
Okay guys. I really need to figure this out.

I "fixed" the bass on the right channel by reversing the spade connectors on the crossover so the (-) on the bottom woofer is connected to the (+) and vice versa. This fixed the polarity problem and corrected the speakers firing out of phase. What I expected to find when I opened the left speaker was the top woofer wired in reverse as some here has told me is the correct way to wire the top woofer. This did not happen. When I opened the left speaker, both the top and bottom woofer are wired (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) and the left speaker appears to be working correctly.

Why do I have to reverse the polarity on the bottom woofer in the right speaker in order to get them to fire correctly??? Is the wiring on the crossover screwed up? What is going on? I am at a loss. I am fairly certain I shouldn't have to plug the spade connectors in to the "wrong" terminals on the crossover in order to correct a phase issue. Help!

I am sending the crossovers out to be re-capped so I can't really do a lot of testing right now. Is there something specific I should ask my guy?

Thanks in advance.
 
We know the two woofers need to be wired with opposite polarity from each other.
How the wires are connected to the crossover should allow for this.
Perhaps the two XO boards differ a bit from each other.:dunno:
 


I guess it's possible that the little red sticker that indicates the positive terminal may have been stuck in the wrong place. Thoughts?

Sorry I should have posted. Yes it looks like it's on the other side from where mine all are.

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