Not sure if you will know because of the different tweaks but how did the k40 cap compare to the mundorf?

Unfortunately, I don't really remember it was several years ago and I also had a loose solder joint at the same time the K40s were in the system so I had an annoying intermittent popping sound the entire time. It wasn't until I'd replaced the K40s that I found the loose connection.
 
I do not have a layout. The chassis I used is steel but it would sag in the middle a little and know that i would be transporting the amp occasionally that is why I added the aluminum support. I went with just ultralinear because that seems to be the type that Kegger preferred and I wanted as clean and least amount of wire as possible.
 
I do not have a layout. The chassis I used is steel but it would sag in the middle a little and know that i would be transporting the amp occasionally that is why I added the aluminum support. I went with just ultralinear because that seems to be the type that Kegger preferred and I wanted as clean and least amount of wire as possible.

Thanks for the info, I bought a steel bottom cover I am cutting to do something similar, 2 for 1 improvement.
 
Tubetime, what is the name of the wires you used from the input RCA jacks to the preamp tube and where did you purchase it. Thanks
 
For my variable dc power supply I plugged a dc wall wart into my variac. I ordered 10 hlmp-6000 led's through mouser and all where at about 1.59v drop with 5ma running through them. Could have used any pair. I also ordered my resistors from them. The koa speer is from what i have read the same as the kiwame but cheaper.
 
I am going to take on the Kegger build. I need to buy a 30 volt power supply to measure resistor and led for the bias of the preamp tube. Are these two power supplies appropriate for this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085QLNF...olid=1OJILDYZM489C&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG1TGSE/?coliid=I1RYZCACM0RMI&colid=1OJILDYZM489C&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

That's great, several of us at the same time, I have everything in except a couple of resistors and of course the transformers, maybe next month. I thought you could use something as simple as a battery to check the voltage drop.
 
Happy new year everyone! I've been really busy but have wanted to build the Kegger se kt88 for awhile now and after seeing blueglows youtube videos I'm sold. I enjoy my 5 watt se builds but have a party coming up this spring and need more power so am ready to get started but have a few questions. I'm going to follow the schematic blueglow posted pretty closely but wonder how he got around 450 volts on the kt88 plates using a 360 volt power transformer. Using psud2 I'm getting around 450 when using a 400 volt transformer with 5AR4. I'm thinking either psud2 isn't as accurate as I thought or the impedance of the power transformer must be pretty small? I'm also am trying to think if I should run it closer to 500 volts and run kt120's for a tad more power.
I would think so, if the rest of your components can take it. It might also allow you to go to the KT-150's and not run them too hard.
 
I do have a 12 volt wallwart and a variac. I will order the led's and resistors and with this setup including a protoboard see if I can rig something up with a couple of multimeters to measure for the bias. Thanks for the idea tubetime.
 
For my variable dc power supply I plugged a dc wall wart into my variac. I ordered 10 hlmp-6000 led's through mouser and all where at about 1.59v drop with 5ma running through them. Could have used any pair. I also ordered my resistors from them. The koa speer is from what i have read the same as the kiwame but cheaper.

I have a box of leftover laptop PS, they put out about 20 V DC @ 3 1/2 amps and I just ordered one of these CLICK I saw on YouTube, so it should do fine for my needs of simple breadboard play, I don't do much.
 
I received two out of four transformers so getting ready to finish drilling an punching my chassis. I was looking at a build where the builder drilled holes around the tube sockets to help ventalate the chassis and lower temperatures, is this worth doing?
 
Getting started.

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Sorry, took me a bit to figure out how to post pics
 
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Getting parts for an amp build in the mail is the adult equivalent of looking under the tree on Christmas morning.

Yep you're correct, my past Dynaco projects left me wishing I had done more, too simple and quick, I hope I can stretch this out for a while.

I'm trying to pace myself.
 
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