kr 9400 in protect
- Thread starter maclvrbr
- Start date
No, the cap does not have to be axial, but it sure fits better.
About the only way I see R1 burning up is if C4 is backwards (Note: It's not uncommon for there to be errors on the PC board silkscreen. Not saying that's the case here, but it's something that needs to be verified). And you apparently have yet to replace C6.
About the only way I see R1 burning up is if C4 is backwards (Note: It's not uncommon for there to be errors on the PC board silkscreen. Not saying that's the case here, but it's something that needs to be verified). And you apparently have yet to replace C6.
Better manual: http://www.stereomanuals.com/man/rep/kenwood/kenwood_manuals_kr-4010_xx.htm
$20 shipped.
$20 shipped.
Well, since resistors weren't self-destructing before you installed the new parts, I have to assume that something was done incorrectly. Or that the new parts were bad (unlikely, but anything is possible I suppose).
kr 9400
Is there anyone in Alabama that you can refer me to? The schematic I have access to is for the most part very legible, except for the power supply schematic. Does anyone have a pic of the wiring to the back of the power supply board? Due to the multiple bending of the board some of the wires have broken off and I want to be sure they are soldered back in the right place. C17 schematic for the power supply shows a 22uf 25v cap, the one removed was a 22uf 35volt. Could this have caused the resistors to fry? I will replace the resistors . The only thing I have done is replace caps and feel they are installed and oriented correctly. I appreciate all who have helped me and thank you all.
Is there anyone in Alabama that you can refer me to? The schematic I have access to is for the most part very legible, except for the power supply schematic. Does anyone have a pic of the wiring to the back of the power supply board? Due to the multiple bending of the board some of the wires have broken off and I want to be sure they are soldered back in the right place. C17 schematic for the power supply shows a 22uf 25v cap, the one removed was a 22uf 35volt. Could this have caused the resistors to fry? I will replace the resistors . The only thing I have done is replace caps and feel they are installed and oriented correctly. I appreciate all who have helped me and thank you all.
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
i can read the diagram from hi-fi engine ok at 50 percent enlargement ..22 inch screen with x 1.5 reading glasses ... would be buggered without the glasses mind .
tell us the wire pin numbers and anything else you are unsure about .
are you sure c4 plus is going to r1 ?
tell us the wire pin numbers and anything else you are unsure about .
are you sure c4 plus is going to r1 ?
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
the blue wire with 2 wires inside looks like a signal wire .
will look some later ..
looks like a burned trace pic 2 far right just above the screw head .
also pic 3 far left looks lik a solder pad came off somewhere and landed second row of solder pads at third pin up
will look some later ..
looks like a burned trace pic 2 far right just above the screw head .
also pic 3 far left looks lik a solder pad came off somewhere and landed second row of solder pads at third pin up
kr 9400
Pete thanks, I did notice the burned trace as you have pointed out. Wow didn't see before, have been looking elsewhere for an issue. This trace goes from 1 leg of the new relay I put in and the + leg of C3 the 2200uf 35 volt cap. Not sure if this makes a difference but due to the way I had to install this cap C3, I had to solder additional length of wire to the negative lead of that cap to reach the solder pad. I can't see the lifted solder pad in the other pic you have described , I obviously am missing some things. What would cause the trace to burn like that? May be also caused the fried resistors. Thanks for your observations.
Pete thanks, I did notice the burned trace as you have pointed out. Wow didn't see before, have been looking elsewhere for an issue. This trace goes from 1 leg of the new relay I put in and the + leg of C3 the 2200uf 35 volt cap. Not sure if this makes a difference but due to the way I had to install this cap C3, I had to solder additional length of wire to the negative lead of that cap to reach the solder pad. I can't see the lifted solder pad in the other pic you have described , I obviously am missing some things. What would cause the trace to burn like that? May be also caused the fried resistors. Thanks for your observations.
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
are there 2 traces burnt next to the screw ? and if that's a transistor just below the traces what transistor is it and which way round is it ?
i am trying to figure out what burnt the traces and resistors .
what parts have been swapped altogether ?
will read through the whole thread after dinner .
i am trying to figure out what burnt the traces and resistors .
what parts have been swapped altogether ?
will read through the whole thread after dinner .
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
ck8 is a suspect right now ..
will try look some more later
did you change ck6 ? is it right way round ?
will try look some more later
did you change ck6 ? is it right way round ?
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petehall347
the brandy coffee man
this pic ..2 caps in the middle i see one as c4 not sure of the other ..are they in correctly ? board markings says maybe not size wise .
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=438190&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1372016818
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
ck8 in correct ? this one could have caused the damage .
JHC! WTF happened here? Popped resistors, lifted traces, wire-wraps broken...damn!
Is there a way that some part on this board shorted to the main power supply caps? Is Ck3 an issue and need to be an axial cap?
In any event, a simple cap-swapping job is now a major repair.
Is there a way that some part on this board shorted to the main power supply caps? Is Ck3 an issue and need to be an axial cap?
In any event, a simple cap-swapping job is now a major repair.
kr 9400
Yes this cap job has turned out to be much destruction that I may have caused. I am aware and will take responsibility for it. I wished it had not happened. I now need some direction and needless to say don't want to make things worse. It is embarrassing. If what I am suggesting doing is not what you would do say so and elaborate. I will order an axial cap, new resistors and locate solder where the broken wires belong. I have repaired the broken traces. Thanks for the help
Yes this cap job has turned out to be much destruction that I may have caused. I am aware and will take responsibility for it. I wished it had not happened. I now need some direction and needless to say don't want to make things worse. It is embarrassing. If what I am suggesting doing is not what you would do say so and elaborate. I will order an axial cap, new resistors and locate solder where the broken wires belong. I have repaired the broken traces. Thanks for the help
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
make sure all new caps are in the correct way and check all transistors .. qk1 might not have been happy with all that current .
