This is basic electrical stuff, "E-shop 101", but appreciate input as I have no feel for how far you can push things in terms of loading...follows a cut/paste from the TUNER INFORMATION CENTER on lamps by Bob...
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"""Kenwood KT-7500 and KT-7550
8 volt 300 milliamp X 3 green-tinted bulbs with rubber grommet base and wire leads - two for dial and one for meters.
Our panelist Bob says: "Here's a solution for the front panel lamps in the KT-7500. I just used common bulbs from Radio Shack that worked well. There are three bulbs in series, driven directly off the power transformer secondary AC winding, which is 29 VAC. The stock tuner uses a series 27 Ohm resistor to drop the voltage to 24 VAC, as 8 volt bulbs were used. When using common Radio Shack 14.4 volt bayonet replacement bulbs, you can choose to leave the resistor in place, for a really dimmed look, or jumper across it. I prefer to jumper it - it looks a little better to me, and is still dimmed compared to stock. I used the 14.4 volt/120 milliamp bayonet bulbs, which I hope last a long time due to the fact that they are running at only 9.7 volts. You still need to solder them in place - I don't know of a solution that gets around that.""
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OK at Radio Shack I found three 14.0 volt/270mA WEDGE base lamps...look like they would slip into the Kenwood rubber lamp socket, and the exterior leads could be straightened and soldered to. easier than bayonet type.
In the example from TUNER INFO by Bob, he uses three 14.4 volt/ 120mA bulbs. Is this a correct assumption...?
a. OEM is_______________three 8.0 volt/300mA = 2.4 WATTS
b. Bob's swap__________ three 14.4 volt/120mA = 1.728 WATTS
c. My RadioShack bulbs__ three 14.0 volt/270mA = 3.78
Given the KT-7500 transformer circuit has 29 Vac, reduced to 24 Vac, is this a safe choice to make with out overloading the circuit or overheating the plastic panel..? Of no consequence?
I think I am leaving something out of this...like is the total amps more important to the circuit than the total watts of "heat"...aren't they about the same thing...
Aside from ruining something, wanted to avoid buying the regular flashlight "bayonet?" type bulbs and having to solder leads onto the base...(is that what you guys normally do anyway?)
Thanks, Pete M
______________________________________________________________
"""Kenwood KT-7500 and KT-7550
8 volt 300 milliamp X 3 green-tinted bulbs with rubber grommet base and wire leads - two for dial and one for meters.
Our panelist Bob says: "Here's a solution for the front panel lamps in the KT-7500. I just used common bulbs from Radio Shack that worked well. There are three bulbs in series, driven directly off the power transformer secondary AC winding, which is 29 VAC. The stock tuner uses a series 27 Ohm resistor to drop the voltage to 24 VAC, as 8 volt bulbs were used. When using common Radio Shack 14.4 volt bayonet replacement bulbs, you can choose to leave the resistor in place, for a really dimmed look, or jumper across it. I prefer to jumper it - it looks a little better to me, and is still dimmed compared to stock. I used the 14.4 volt/120 milliamp bayonet bulbs, which I hope last a long time due to the fact that they are running at only 9.7 volts. You still need to solder them in place - I don't know of a solution that gets around that.""
______________________________________________________________
OK at Radio Shack I found three 14.0 volt/270mA WEDGE base lamps...look like they would slip into the Kenwood rubber lamp socket, and the exterior leads could be straightened and soldered to. easier than bayonet type.
In the example from TUNER INFO by Bob, he uses three 14.4 volt/ 120mA bulbs. Is this a correct assumption...?
a. OEM is_______________three 8.0 volt/300mA = 2.4 WATTS
b. Bob's swap__________ three 14.4 volt/120mA = 1.728 WATTS
c. My RadioShack bulbs__ three 14.0 volt/270mA = 3.78
Given the KT-7500 transformer circuit has 29 Vac, reduced to 24 Vac, is this a safe choice to make with out overloading the circuit or overheating the plastic panel..? Of no consequence?
I think I am leaving something out of this...like is the total amps more important to the circuit than the total watts of "heat"...aren't they about the same thing...
Aside from ruining something, wanted to avoid buying the regular flashlight "bayonet?" type bulbs and having to solder leads onto the base...(is that what you guys normally do anyway?)
Thanks, Pete M