Lamp holder replacement

markthefixer

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SX-1280, SX-1980, SX-x80, SX-x50 Lamp / wedge bulb holder / socket replacement

Well, they came in today, and I tried them out.

Replacement lamp holders for the problematic white (yellow) plastic wedge bulb socketed lamp holders that fit into the clear plastic "acrylic board" light pipe.

The socket's ears get brittle and break off. Some people RTV the sockets in, others have come up with other innovative DIY solutions.

Mouser part number 560-2964 @ $1.25 ea
as an alternate, in case of out of stock
Mouser part number 560-2964-6B @ 1.01 ea
with slightly shorter leads (152mm vs. 203mm)
made by JKL components.

Fits like a glove!!! I am VERY happy!!
(That is a busted sx-1980 light pipe, but the dimensions are the same for the x80 and x50 series, perhaps others)
 
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Mark, as always an awesome discovery..... by the king....this is pretty important to the restoration crowd....
 
This is a good thread to put a cross-duplicate into:

These are the 3.3 ohm soft start acn-019 resistors, and the closest fits that can be found, out of Hong Kong. There was much speculation as to whether or not they fit. Here is the answer:
(sx-1080, sx-1280, sx-1980, sx-3900, sx-d7000) YES... with a little cutting of new slots in the pc board, also they fit the metal shield.

Resistors received.

Unfortunately they are not plug compatible. They do fit inside the stainless cover easily. The spade connectors are spaced 5mm less and the lugs are wider.

However, with a little bit of tweaking, filing the lugs and bending they can be made to fit the board and soldered in touching the fuse.

Pictures below. The new one has the long and wider lugs.

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Dave

Well, direct observation of the sx-1980 and sx-1280 power supply boards where they are mounted shows room to cut slots 44mm apart between the 48mm (center to center on the PC boards, two measured!!- I call them as I measure them!!) slots and nothing is interfered with, and looks like the cuts will still be within BOTH foils on BOTH models.

The sx-1080 service manual also supports this with their power supply pc board foil diagram. Not direct observation.

all three use the acn-019 resistor.

addressing the acn-019, it's also used on the awr-211 rectifier assembly found in both the sx-3900 and sx-d7000, these boards will ALSO support the narrower slots AND they stay within the foil area...

edit (8/30/2013, picture by samc777, Thanks Sam!!!): slots seem unnecessary, according to the picture (SX-1280, rest are very similar): :d
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Well, they came in today, and I tried them out.

Replacement lamp holders for the problematic white (yellow) plastic wedge bulb socketed lamp holders that fit into the clear plastic "acrylic board" light pipe.

The socket's ears get brittle and break off. Some people RTV the sockets in, others have come up with other innovative DIY solutions.

Mouser part number 560-2964 @ $1.25 ea
as an alternate, in case of out of stock
Mouser part number 560-2964-6B @ 1.01 ea
with slightly shorter leads (152mm vs. 203mm)
made by JKL components.

Fits like a glove!!! I am VERY happy!!
(That is a busted sx-1980 light pipe, but the dimensions are the same for the x80 and x50 series, perhaps others)

attachment.php

This is definitely good to know. :thmbsp:

Thanks for post and sharing Mark! :yes:
 
I just tried these in an SX-780:

PioneerSX-780LightBarRefit.jpg


While they fit, they were quite tight. I applied silicone grease (clear dielectric, not heat sink compound) to the cones to allow them to slip into the light bar. Once installed, the fit was so tight that the side leaves of the contacts would not permit the wedge base lamps to be installed. I cracked the corners of two lamp bases in two different sockets trying to install them. There is no hope of installing them with the lamps in the sockets since the bulb will not allow the cone to collapse sufficiently for installation. It's necessary to install the lamp after the socket is in place, and remove the lamp from the socket before removing the holder from the light bar.

A little trimming of the retention detent with an X-Acto knife was all that was necessary to relieve the contacts enough to permit lamp installation, but the lamps still need to be installed after the sockets are in the light bar.

I'm not sure if the light bar openings in the x80 series is different from those in the x50 series, but they will fit with some work and are still a LOT easier than automotive side marker lamp sockets.
 
LED Bulbs with these new bulb holders

I decided to try some of these bulb holders too.

I was surprised and happy to discover that they were slightly deeper than the stock plastic holders and actually allow LED bulbs to be installed. All the previous LED bulbs that I have tried were too tall and when the "bonnet" was installed it pressed down on the head of the bulb and broke the plastic bulb retainer.

One more thing, I installed 12vdc LED bulbs in the ~7.5vac sockets and they worked perfectly! I am aware that LED bulbs can be purchased as ac/dc types but these cheap LED bulbs from amazon.com seem to work fine at 7.5vac. At less than a $1 each they are half the price of a 168 bulb plus supposedly last a lifetime.

One of these days I will learn how to embed these external links.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00755JMYS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave
 

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I had been having mixed results from led #194 replacements (from overseas), they didn't like the AC, and I did some circuit experimenting, that's still ongoing (thus no posts on it) with half wave and full wave rectifiers and a voltage doubler with a 3 terminal regulator - I would LOVE to get Pioneer main illumination going with these.

BTW, the overseas ones I got look IDENTICAL to your amazon find.
 
I would LOVE to get Pioneer main illumination going with these.

BTW, the overseas ones I got look IDENTICAL to your amazon find.

I have been running these ac/dc 9~14v LEDs in my SX-1280 for over a month at 10 hours a day and they are fantastic from my point of view.

The illumination is even and they present a look that to me just showcases the Silver Faced Pioneer receivers dial. Downside is price, around $7 each IIRC.

The rubber bulb holders that you posted took care of the ceiling height issues I had previously. Before that I would router out a small area in the underside of the bonnet for clearance. It worked but was time consuming and too exacting.

edit: link to these LED bulbs.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wedge-bulbs/194-led-bulb-15-smd-led-wedge-base-tower/910/

Dave
 

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Mouser part number 560-2964 @ $1.25 ea
as an alternate, in case of out of stock
Mouser part number 560-2964-6B @ 1.01 ea
with slightly shorter leads (152mm vs. 203mm)
made by JKL components.


Sorry..I realize this is an ancient thread but are there any alternatives to these two part numbers? Neither seem to be available anymore from Mouser...Thanks
 
Also I have a box of Ge #259 bulbs..6.3v 250ma Will they work? maybe with a shorter life?
 
If you can get the proper color temperature LED with the proper diffusion (usually the tough part) that would be a good solution. However, having been down this path a few times, instead of a 6.3V/250mA lamp running at 7.5-8.1V (due to higher than the 1974 design line voltage) for 300-320mA, consider a 168 automotive lamp. Those are rated at 12.8V/350mA. At 8.25V they draw about 260mA and are about as bright as the original 8V/300mA lamps, but with a much longer service life.
 
I am including other info here, as the lamp thread is easy to find, and is somewhat turning into "my useful parts repository"...

to-126 heat sink, clip on. Mouser.com part number 532-577500B00
to-220 heat sink, ??clip on??mouser.com 984-ATS-PCBT1085

to-126
upload_2022-7-9_17-50-13.png


to-220
upload_2022-7-9_17-53-31.png
 
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TO-247 output transistor socket connector

Amphenol sockets are the less expensive ones that you used, while the Phoenix were the original recommendation, they cost a bit more
but there's no need to fool with the output transistor leads. Internally they are the same as the Phoenix EXCEPT the plug in area grabs @ 90 degrees instead of 180 degrees.

older comments:
One is from Amphenol, has a higher contact current rating (20 amps) and is less expensive ( $0.84 v $2.98) , the other is from Phoenix.

On the exterior they have the same appearance, the interior differs in one detail. The contact blades are 90 degrees offset from each other.

Thus the more expensive 12 amp phoenix part grips the transistor leads from their SIDES, with quite the cleaning force for mating.

The less expensive 20 amp amphenol part grips the transistor leads on their FACES, and in order to get them into contact the leads have to be folded over, doubling their thickness as it were.

12 or 20 amps is WELL in excess of the currents expected in the Amp, so that's a wash.

I will keep on using the Phoenix for several different reasons. The primary being that side to side high contact force connection. To me it appears to have a better chance at being "gas tight"

amphenol: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/649-TJ03515300J0G

(MTF preferred) Phoenix: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/651-1757022
 
Excellent find on the replacement lamp sockets. I always get nervous when I relamp one of these, as the sockets almost always break.
 
Excellent find on the replacement lamp sockets. I always get nervous when I relamp one of these, as the sockets almost always break.
from 2013... no longer available from mouser.com......
 
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