Discussion in 'Listening Spaces' started by L-82, Jan 20, 2016.
1960s Dazor model 3612
My older sister sent this somewhat as a gag gift. Little did she realize how much we enjoy it in our household.
Dazor Model 1069.
Furious how do you like your ohms in the picture?
I enjoy them quite a bit, actually. Very neutral speakers that are a bit finicky with placement (when i actually listen to them, I pull them out a bit more off the wall than what you see in the picture). I like them paired with a semi-powerful amp to sufficiently drive them, as do most Ohm speakers. To me, they are still one of the best bang for your buck speakers on the market. I remember paying a touch under $200 for these and feel they are worth every penny.
Got to use this one for a couple of days while on the road.
Found this today for a few bucks. A pre-1963 American Optical Universal Illuminator Model 359. I think it will make a brilliant turntable lamp once I replace the the speaker cable with something more industrial.
Not necessarily modern but most likely mid-century.
Minimus 77 & Advent 300 by Buhduh, on Flickr
It won't win any design awards but this lamp that my dad made in shop class in about 1935 or so will never leave me.
Dad's shop class lamp by Buhduh, on Flickr
I have one of those in black crinkle finish, they were an 80s lighting icon. Not sure of the designer but you can find the exact one you have in Robobcop -
That's a great lamp!
Heyco is the name of the grommet maker, not the lamp: https://www.heyco.com
Lamps of this era may have a paper tag inside the shade near the sockets. Take the bulbs out and see if you can see it. Unfortunately the glue on the label lets go and they fall out. The other spot might be inside the base behind the felt of cork stuck to the weight.
Your best bet for the knob is to look for the entire socket with knob attached on ebay. Most rotary switch sockets now do not have a detachable knob but a molded one integral to it like below. One other place to look would be an old lighting store. Most are long gone now but if there is one around since the 70s you might get lucky.
Although I don't use them anymore (prices way up) http://snakeheadvintage.com has a good selection of parts and are easy to deal with. If the lamp has a vintage socket shell, keep it but replace the guts (paper sleeve liner & socket/switch). Even cheapo Walmart ones are suitable for this. If you have an earlier lamp with fat boy socket as below, you can use the modern switch/socket replacement but not the liner. Definitely shop around for those -
Fat boy socket -
A few of my old lamps from the 60's and early 70's
Wow, thanks for this response - very informative and educational.
I'm still moving and getting settled into my new place. Prior to moving, I placed several of my vintage items (LOTS of glassware, a clock, a couple lamps, some furniture) on consignment at a local shop. I showed the owner what I was looking for. He didn't have any, but recommended another local vintage store that specializes in lighting. Once I get settled in and have a free weekend, I'll pay them a visit.
I'll have to check the lamp when I get home, but I think the sockets are bakelite, or perhaps ceramic. I see plenty of new ones on eBay, but I'd prefer to keep this lamp as original as possible.
If the sockets are in good shape and can find the original type knob, great. If not don't sweat it as that has minimal if any impact on the look or value of the lamp. I never reuse vintage sockets when I rebuild a lamp as new parts are inexpensive plus peace of mind. I used to always use ceramic sockets with incandescent bulbs as the heat long term makes the thermoset resin (bakelite) brittle over time. With LED bulbs though heat is a non-issue. I recommend LED bulbs with any metal shade/hood lamps as they can get 2nd-degree-burn hot with filament bulbs.
Agree with useing LEDs. Only continued use forr incandesants is lava lamps when re heat is required. LEds especially in recess light fixtureswhere lower heat is safer near insuration snd other combusables. Sorry for hijack.
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