Quest
Active Member
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=120044
I read the question of using tung oil on wood and it reminded me that some people do not know about using natural oils to protect wood. An oil finish that have the advantage of easier applications and much less of a chance to screw up and, if necessary, it can be brought back to life quickly with another application of oil. Using linseed oil and gum of turpentine, here is a way to use natural finish on wood. I’ve used it many times and never messed it up.
Someone threw out these faded Minimus-7W (Walnut) speakers because the veneer finish was faded. Look at them now.
If you’ve got wood equipment and it just needs a refinishing then let me recommend using an oil finish. It makes a beautiful satin sheen, is easy to apply, protects the wood and can be rejuvenated easily.
The first oil finish happened by accident, back in the days of early English Feudal castles and in the baronial halls. In these grand establishments, the first oak interior trim was left unfinished. As time passed, however, the wood began to take on a rich color from the gases and greases emanating from the cooking pots hung over the open fires, and eventually, a beautiful and colorful finished resulted.
From this beginning, the process of producing a rich oil finish developed and became more refined. Now it is done with applications of hot linseed oil with each application rubbed into the wood and allowed to dry. An oil finish is strictly for the ambitious. It takes time, patience, and endless rubbing, but in the end, it’s well worth it, because you can’t find a more functional finish then this ancient one. The difference between an oil finish and other finishes is that the oil finish is IN the wood and not ON it. In addition to imparting a rich color to the wood, it also makes it impervious to the ravages of heat, water, stains and ordinary wear. It also adds the advantage that it strengthens the wood by locking strong resins in the wood fibers.
It can take many months to complete an oil finish, but during the process, the furniture being finished can be used as usual. The simplest procedure is to brush on a hot 50-50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine, allow it to dry for about an hour, and then wipe off the excess. Repeat the process every day or two until four or more coats of oil have been applied. This will give you a good finish that needs no waxing and can be washed as frequently as needed to maintain cleanliness. The oiling process can be repeated to renew and preserve the finish from time to time, over a period of months, and even years.
Before the oil finish can be applied, however, the old finish must be removed from the wood and sanded to a glassy smoothness with 5/0 garnet finishing paper. Next, wipe it clean with a damp cloth and dry the dampened surface quickly by directing heat on it. An electric heater or an infra-red heat lamp is ideal for this. I’ve even used sunlight to help it dry. When dry, use sandpaper or 00 grade steel wool to remove any whisker that may have been raised by the moisture.
There are several different methods of applying the oil. You can apply undiluted boiled linseed oil to the surface and rub it into the wood with the heel of your hand. Keep rubbing until the oil has been completely absorbed into the wood, and then add more oil and rub further. Repeat this until you feel that the wood can absorb no more oil. It is a good idea to rub oil into the undersurfaces as well in order to keep the wood from warping. Keep rubbing until there is no oil film left on the surface.
If the application of oil raises the grain, you can sand the surface with 8/0 garnet paper or rub with 00 or 000 steel wool as often as necessary during the process. With some open-grained woods, it is advisable to use paste wood filler in order to get a perfectly smooth surface. Filler, if applied to the bare wood before the oiling process, will cut down the wood’s absorption qualities and cause the oil applications to build up faster with less work. It will also result in a lighter-colored finish. If you want the finish to be darker, the filler can be added after an application of oil has been rubbed into the surface.
The applications of oil should be repeated every day for the first week, then once a month for a year, and once a year thereafter.
If you want to add a tone to brown woods such as mahogany and walnut, you can add a little dark red oil stain to the oil before applying it.
Another method of achieving an oil finish is to mix boiled linseed oil with pure turpentine in the proportions of 2 parts oil to one part turpentine. This mixture can be applied hot or cold. The hot mixture will set faster and result in a darker color. To heat it, use a double broiler. This mixture should be applied generously with a rag to a small area at a time and rubbed vigorously with a hard polishing cloth for 10 to 20 minutes. The rubbing friction will generate heat to bring out the luster. Wipe off any excess oil, especially from molding and crevices, before it has a chance to get sticky and hard.
Two applications of oil should be rubbed into the surface the first day, and the process repeated at least two days later with another coat. Subsequent applications can be spaced from a week to a month apart, making sure that each coat is thoroughly dry before applying the next. From 5 to 20 applications of oil in all will produce a fine, mellow finish which can be freshened up with additional applications as years go by.
For a higher sheen, after the final oiling has had time to dry for three or four days, the surface can be rubbed down with pumice and rubbing oil, and if a still higher polish is desired, follow up in a few days with rottenstone-and-oil rub.
I hope to see many oil finishes in the future! Have fun refinishing and showing off your equipment.
I read the question of using tung oil on wood and it reminded me that some people do not know about using natural oils to protect wood. An oil finish that have the advantage of easier applications and much less of a chance to screw up and, if necessary, it can be brought back to life quickly with another application of oil. Using linseed oil and gum of turpentine, here is a way to use natural finish on wood. I’ve used it many times and never messed it up.
Someone threw out these faded Minimus-7W (Walnut) speakers because the veneer finish was faded. Look at them now.
If you’ve got wood equipment and it just needs a refinishing then let me recommend using an oil finish. It makes a beautiful satin sheen, is easy to apply, protects the wood and can be rejuvenated easily.
The first oil finish happened by accident, back in the days of early English Feudal castles and in the baronial halls. In these grand establishments, the first oak interior trim was left unfinished. As time passed, however, the wood began to take on a rich color from the gases and greases emanating from the cooking pots hung over the open fires, and eventually, a beautiful and colorful finished resulted.
From this beginning, the process of producing a rich oil finish developed and became more refined. Now it is done with applications of hot linseed oil with each application rubbed into the wood and allowed to dry. An oil finish is strictly for the ambitious. It takes time, patience, and endless rubbing, but in the end, it’s well worth it, because you can’t find a more functional finish then this ancient one. The difference between an oil finish and other finishes is that the oil finish is IN the wood and not ON it. In addition to imparting a rich color to the wood, it also makes it impervious to the ravages of heat, water, stains and ordinary wear. It also adds the advantage that it strengthens the wood by locking strong resins in the wood fibers.
It can take many months to complete an oil finish, but during the process, the furniture being finished can be used as usual. The simplest procedure is to brush on a hot 50-50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine, allow it to dry for about an hour, and then wipe off the excess. Repeat the process every day or two until four or more coats of oil have been applied. This will give you a good finish that needs no waxing and can be washed as frequently as needed to maintain cleanliness. The oiling process can be repeated to renew and preserve the finish from time to time, over a period of months, and even years.
Before the oil finish can be applied, however, the old finish must be removed from the wood and sanded to a glassy smoothness with 5/0 garnet finishing paper. Next, wipe it clean with a damp cloth and dry the dampened surface quickly by directing heat on it. An electric heater or an infra-red heat lamp is ideal for this. I’ve even used sunlight to help it dry. When dry, use sandpaper or 00 grade steel wool to remove any whisker that may have been raised by the moisture.
There are several different methods of applying the oil. You can apply undiluted boiled linseed oil to the surface and rub it into the wood with the heel of your hand. Keep rubbing until the oil has been completely absorbed into the wood, and then add more oil and rub further. Repeat this until you feel that the wood can absorb no more oil. It is a good idea to rub oil into the undersurfaces as well in order to keep the wood from warping. Keep rubbing until there is no oil film left on the surface.
If the application of oil raises the grain, you can sand the surface with 8/0 garnet paper or rub with 00 or 000 steel wool as often as necessary during the process. With some open-grained woods, it is advisable to use paste wood filler in order to get a perfectly smooth surface. Filler, if applied to the bare wood before the oiling process, will cut down the wood’s absorption qualities and cause the oil applications to build up faster with less work. It will also result in a lighter-colored finish. If you want the finish to be darker, the filler can be added after an application of oil has been rubbed into the surface.
The applications of oil should be repeated every day for the first week, then once a month for a year, and once a year thereafter.
If you want to add a tone to brown woods such as mahogany and walnut, you can add a little dark red oil stain to the oil before applying it.
Another method of achieving an oil finish is to mix boiled linseed oil with pure turpentine in the proportions of 2 parts oil to one part turpentine. This mixture can be applied hot or cold. The hot mixture will set faster and result in a darker color. To heat it, use a double broiler. This mixture should be applied generously with a rag to a small area at a time and rubbed vigorously with a hard polishing cloth for 10 to 20 minutes. The rubbing friction will generate heat to bring out the luster. Wipe off any excess oil, especially from molding and crevices, before it has a chance to get sticky and hard.
Two applications of oil should be rubbed into the surface the first day, and the process repeated at least two days later with another coat. Subsequent applications can be spaced from a week to a month apart, making sure that each coat is thoroughly dry before applying the next. From 5 to 20 applications of oil in all will produce a fine, mellow finish which can be freshened up with additional applications as years go by.
For a higher sheen, after the final oiling has had time to dry for three or four days, the surface can be rubbed down with pumice and rubbing oil, and if a still higher polish is desired, follow up in a few days with rottenstone-and-oil rub.
I hope to see many oil finishes in the future! Have fun refinishing and showing off your equipment.