Looking for PL-630/610 Parts

[csmith]

I am in desperate need for some parts needed for the restoration of my Pioneer PL-630. I am missing the locking collar for the left side tonearm bearing as well as the rubber cover for the drop point adjustment hole. My table is in the very capable hands of AK member pustelniakr . Any and all help with locating and obtaining these parts will be very much appreciated . Here is a picture of the missing parts.

 

[Timmy77]

I have a 630 parts table that I use for my 610, I will check out what I have and let you know.

 

[pustelniakr]

I have a 630 parts table that I use for my 610, I will check out what I have and let you know.

Just posting to show that I am here and watching. I can answer questions, if needed.

Tim, you would be a definite life saver if you had the locking collar, for the left-side tonearm bearing. Pioneer did not sell these as separate parts. They only sold whole tonearms. The locking collar is basically a threaded nut, that is round on the outside, and has a slot on the surface that faces out when installed. It serves to lock the threaded bearing cone adjusting shaft in place, like a lock nut, once the bearing lash has been properly adjusted (delicate and tricky).

This table is going to turn out very nice.

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[AvFan]

I am working with a AKer who is trying to 3D print a plastic part for the auto return mechanism of my PL-610. If that effort fails my 610 will be a doorstop/parts table. I don't expect to have the part for another month or so. What is the timeline for your repair?

 

[redk9258]

Could you make one from a stainless steel nut? Get on with the correct threads and turn the outside down to the needed dimension. Then cut the slot?

How about making one from a riv-nut? Or a PEM?

 

[pustelniakr]

While the part could be fabricated or kludged, I prefer to use OEM parts for these high end units. It will be better if we can purchase or obtain a part from a parts unit. I do appreciate the ideas though (PEM is a good one). if the actual parts cannot be located, the other options will come into high potential.

The locking collar is a metric size, possibly 4mm (not sure), with a non-standard, fine-pitch thread.

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[Timmy77]

Ok got the parts table out, what is the trick to removing the collar nut safley? The rubber peice was easy but I did not even try on the other as I wanted to ask first. Would a trade for a decent set of rca interconnects be a fair trade? If not Im looking for a preamp to go with my M91 if you want the whole table? Its missing some parts and the control chip or something is shot. I sold three of the feet, the top case, counter weight and the power cord. The tone arm and assembly look perfect and so does the front switch parts. I preffer to trade just the parts needed as I may need some of them down the road for my 610. I really dont know the proper procedure for this so please let me know.

 

[Timmy77]

Oh, let me know if you want pics of the parts table.

 

[pustelniakr]

Ok got the parts table out, what is the trick to removing the collar nut safley? ...

Remove the headshell, if any, then move the tonearm toward the platter center. This will expose the left side bearing of the tonearm gimbal.

Jeweler's screw drivers work nicely. First rotate the inner screw, counter-clockwise, until its slot lines up with the slot in the collar. Then, with a wider jeweler's screwdriver (wide enough to bridge from one side of the collar slot to the other, through the inner screw), rotate the two together, in the counterclockwise direction. Once the collar is free, you can gently rotate it off of the inner screw (counterclockwise). Then screw the inner screw back in, just until it touches, and back off 1/8 turn. That will keep the tonearm properly suspended and the remaining bearing parts safe.

Tim, you are a lifesaver. csmith (the table owner) will carry on negotiations with you, for trades or price, via private conversation. He will give you my address to ship it. Please do not ship it in a simple envelope. The letter handling machine will cause the parts to tear out and be lost. You can fit the collar into a hole in some cardboard, then into an envelope. That will make it safe.

We found the rubber hole plug. You can keep yours with your parts unit.

This will make csmith's table complete and ready for successful restoration. I will post a couple of nice pics, when done, to show you what you contributed to.

Thanks in advance,
Rich P

 

[csmith]

PM sent to Timmy77

 

[Bucky Badger]

I sent a PM to T77 last night as well re. a rubber hole plug.

 

[csmith]

Timmy, I tried sending a pm but haven't gotten a reply from you. Still need the part.
thanks

 

[Timmy77]

Ok the srew is really tight, can I use a liquid to loosen it? What about heat from a heat gun or small flame? It's tight, enough to break 2 small drivers. Granted they were cheap one's.

 

[pustelniakr]

I take it that you are breaking screwdrivers trying to get the inner screw to move? If that is the case, you will have to get the collar to come loose first.. That is tricky without the special tool. Applying heat will likely damage the gimbal that the collar and bearing cone is screwed into. That is not good to trash, just for the little locking collar. If it were me, I would buy a wide-bladed common screwdriver and fashion a screw driver with a blade that has an opening in the middle, so that it can fit into the slot on either side of the inner screw. That will cost you more than you are likely to get for the bearing collar. If it won't come out, it won't come out. We will have to keep looking.

You could try putting jeweler's screw drivers (2) into the slots on each side of in the collar, and holding them tightly, try to get the collar to come loose. It is a long shot, but you are not likely to break another screwdriver that way. you just may not be able to generate the required leverage.

Thanks for trying,
Rich P

 

[Timmy77]

I have like 10 flat heads so I will try making a slot in one. I dont like giving up so I will keep trying.

 

[Bucky Badger]

Great atitude Tim. You will succeed I'm sure.

 

[pustelniakr]

I have like 10 flat heads so I will try making a slot in one. I dont like giving up so I will keep trying.

Good man.

Such a tool might be nice to add to my kit. If you are successful, I might be willing to buy it. I'll need something similar to install the part you are taking off.

Thanks,
Rich P

 

[csmith]

I have like 10 flat heads so I will try making a slot in one. I dont like giving up so I will keep trying.

Any luck with the collar?

 

[csmith]

Anyone heard from Timmy77? He hasn't been on since the 11th.

I am working with a AKer who is trying to 3D print a plastic part for the auto return mechanism of my PL-610. If that effort fails my 610 will be a doorstop/parts table. I don't expect to have the part for another month or so. What is the timeline for your repair?

Was the 3d printed part a success?

 

[AvFan]

Not yet. The guy I'm working with focused his attention on the 3D printed record cleaning machines he makes (Christmas rush) versus the one-off part for my PL-610. I am hopeful he will get to it soon and the new part will resolve the problem with my 610's auto return mechanism.