Looking for Sony APR-2003 replacement part (TC-510-2 or 5550-2)

[eveready9v]

Hey there,
So I have a Sony APR-2003 that the little plastic part that allows the record knob to stay locked in record mode cracked in half and fell out of the bottom of my deck. I have read around the web that this and the sister models the TC-510-2 and 5550-2 all have the same part failure. Some folks had mentioned that there was someone machining or manufacturing a replacement? Just seeing if anyone might have a leads towards whomever might have be doing this or any other suggestions, before I just end up trying to epoxy the piece back together. Thanks for the help folks.

 

[steerpike2]

Old thread:
Did you have any success?
I have one of these machines arriving next week; not sure of its problems, just reported as "beyond repair", so it might be the cam problem, with no spares available.
Once I look inside, I may have ideas on how to make up a replacement part.

 

[danyb2000]

I have a brand new NEVER USED for sale and another one for parts.

him me back

Danilo

Hey there,
So I have a Sony APR-2003 that the little plastic part that allows the record knob to stay locked in record mode cracked in half and fell out of the bottom of my deck. I have read around the web that this and the sister models the TC-510-2 and 5550-2 all have the same part failure. Some folks had mentioned that there was someone machining or manufacturing a replacement? Just seeing if anyone might have a leads towards whomever might have be doing this or any other suggestions, before I just end up trying to epoxy the piece back together. Thanks for the help folks.

I

 

[Altec_or_JBL]

I have a brand new NEVER USED for sale and another one for parts.

him me back

Danilo




I

Hi.Donyou still have this recorder? Thanks

 

[danyb2000]

Hi.Donyou still have this recorder? Thanks

HI Altec,
Yes I do.

 

[outnfront11]

Hi all, not sure if anyone is still interested, but I've successfully 3D printed a few of the plastic part that enables switching between Play and Rec. Send me a note if you are interested. I have to install one in my TC-510-2 but am right now stuck repairing my APR-2003...

I have an APR 2003 which I conducted a motor repair that was described in another forum (replace the sponge that pushes the brushes inside the motor) and had everything working fine (Play/Rec/FF/RW) I was just testing a reel when "something" happened and the PB/Record stopped working. FF/RW still works and turning the PB knob does engage a relay and I can also hear the dull static from the speaker.
Two micro switches are open when PB or REC are selected, one is "power" and one is "timing". The power switch seems to do it's job with the correct levels, but the "timing" switch I cannot work out. I don't know what "bias +B" or "Rec +B" should be or whether the switch is doing it's job.

Here's a snip from the schematic:



Any ideas would be most welcome!
Thanks

 

[8STJ]

Hi.Donyou still have this recorder? Thanks

Hello

I'm just a new member and I need "The little plastic part that allows the record knob to stay locked in record mode" to repair my Sony TC510-2.

Do you always have this part available (Cf picture) ? If you have it, I'm in France and I can paid by paypal.

So if it's ok for you, please,, could you send me the total amount, included the shipping cost

Have a Merry christmas and an happy new year

 

[paprtape]

Old thread:
Did you have any success?
I have one of these machines arriving next week; not sure of its problems, just reported as "beyond repair", so it might be the cam problem, with no spares available.
Once I look inside, I may have ideas on how to make up a replacement part.

Did you guys find a solution to the plastic parts yet?

I have two plastic parts that are broken (see image), apart from that everything is working so far, however, further testing needed once I can get the mechanism for play/record to work properly.

 

[Sean McVeigh]

Sony tc-510-2 part

• Sean McVeigh
• Jul 1, 2020

Sorry to revive an old thread. Has anyone 3d printed this part? It enables the record function to lock (I think).

 

[paprtape]

I haven't 3d printed it yet, but I got some brass plates, cut and solder the pieces similar to the part. It's finally fully functional now

recorded on tape:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBzNpcsJ7Mu/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

tape loop:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCLeC3fp7pm/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

I did it with 3mm and 1mm brass plates... had to get some jewelry cutting tools, but with the help of my gf it is now working like new

 

[Sean McVeigh]

Sounds like a great fix - do you have any photographs or links to brass plates? Many thanks.

 

[paprtape]

I didn't take any photos... forgot to, since I was experimenting with different designs. The brass plates were just from amazon
There's a Japanese guy who modified the parts on youtube:

I don't understand what he says, but his design seems to work pretty well

 

[chobochobo]

Hi, does anyone have these parts for sale please? Or perhaps some instructions for their fabrication please?

 

[Sean McVeigh]

I've since bought a working model, but if anyone would like to send me their broken part, I can try to 3-D design and print a replacement (no guarantee it will work though),

 

[chobochobo]

Cheers. In the end, I didn't go for the 510/5550 and ended up with a TC-770 instead. If I ever get a 510, I'll get in touch

 

[Antivolt]

The mechanical drive controls with a knob and plastic parts remained a weak point of the Sony TC-510-2. Excessive forces were not allowed to be exercised here.

The TC-510-2 has a bad design of a cam that wears out and would be hard to replicate. This causes the machine to not click in or engage in the record mode.

The part ( ref 166 in APR-2003 Service Manual ) is made of nylon 66 molded on the end of the axis.

Dimensions: outer diameter 12 millimeters, bore 5.5 millimeters, thickness 5 millimeters, lateral "tooth": 4 x 4 x 3.5 millimeters.

You can't even manufacture it through milling ( nylon 66 ).

Solution 1: glue the pieces back to the axis in the right position, with progressive epoxy glue.

Solution 2: manufacture the part 166 in aluminum, brass or copper.

 

[Antivolt]

Shaft /axis diameter : 6 millimeters - 2 parts x 3 millimeters
Part 166 : 12 millimetres in diameter.
Material : ABS

 

[Antivolt]

2 holes with epoxy
Part 166 is finished and works very well.

 

[Sean McVeigh]

2 holes with epoxy
Part 166 is finished and works very well. View attachment 2745360

Hello - is there any chance you could make one for me? I would of course pay for your time and shipping. Kind regards,
Sean

 

[JustBlaze]

Have a practically brand new unit that came in today. Got it set up and running. Made 2 test recordings with my son and within 5 minutes it was broken. I was aware of this issue before purchasing and was ecstatic to find one in such great condition, yet here we are.

What’s the best place to start disassembly to try and epoxy the part back together? Every thread I’ve come across that mentions 3D printing the part ends up dead.