Main filter capacitors for MC2100
- Thread starter jromano
- Start date
Find Mouser.com on the web. Digi-key may be a second choice. Sprague makes them. Besides the diameter and height, make sure the distance between the studs is correct and that the studs are the correct shape. You probably can use a replacement that is up to 50% larger than the original. If I recall, the MC250 uses one or two twist prong, multiple capacity cans so I will assume the 2100 uses them also. These are getting really rare. You will probably have to solder new caps to the pins underneath and leave the old one intact (unless it is shorted).
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AudioClassics is not an electronic parts distributor. They will sell you "official" Mcintosh replacement parts with Mcintosh part numbers on them. The parts will be fine and the service will be terrific but they will cost 2x - 3x the price of a generic part (assuming you can get a generic and the part isn't obsolete). I have both an MC2200 and MC2205 and replaced the two filter caps in each one for $60 per amp. When you find out the price from the Mcintosh parts department or AudioClassics, let me know. On my amps, Mcintosh originally used standard General Electric computer grade electrolytics. They had a clear shrink plastic sleeve over them to keep the lettering from wearing off and preventing accidental shorts on the metal can. I see now that Mcintosh has their supplier put the capacitor in a black shrink plastic sleeve with a large Mcintosh logo and the Mcintosh part number. If that logo is really important to you go to AudioClassics or the Mcintosh parts dept. I do not want to be disparaging but I made the assumption that if you were going to order the parts on your own and replace them yourself that you were familiar with sources of off-the-shelf standard parts. This isn't quite as bad as trying to transplant a pig's liver into a human.
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paulram
Super Member
I replaced my filter caps for my mc2505 obtained from mouser . They ran me about 25 bucks each. Mc had the replacements for 100 bucks each , but they were exact fit. I had to drill new holes in the chassis to accomodate the ones from mouser.They are working fine. I contacted Cornell Dub. regarding the exact fitment and was told that a minimum order of 30+ was required...business opportunity anyone?
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"This isn't quite as bad as trying to transplant a pig's liver into a human"
LOL LOL LOL ..
so far, i think that i found the capacitors in mouser:
http://il.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...AEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22SwTEjlXr%2bbdqoyKaybugC8%3
is this the right part?
However no parts currently available on this site and the min order is 13 parts...!?
and in digikey i didn't find it
Are there any other site alternatives?
Thanks a lot
LOL LOL LOL ..
so far, i think that i found the capacitors in mouser:
http://il.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...AEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22SwTEjlXr%2bbdqoyKaybugC8%3
is this the right part?
However no parts currently available on this site and the min order is 13 parts...!?
and in digikey i didn't find it
Are there any other site alternatives?
Thanks a lot
I didn't look at your link but I think 13 means they have 13 in stock for immediate delivery. I think they will sell you a penny's worth of parts but will add a $5 or $10 minimum charge fee if the price is less than a certain amount (still plus shipping).
Regarding other sources, I bought my four filter caps off ebay from a seller named "capacitor12." The only caveat (with any seller) is know the exactly dimensions of what you want (height, diameter, stud spacing, stud size and shape and date code). Mine were 2005 two years ago. Stick with parts that are < 5-8 years old. They have the same voltage rating but are 25% higher in capacitance and 1/2" shorter. It's amazing how light they have become. It's like there is nothing in them. Mine are Mallory but I think they are now owned by CDE. Make sure they are new. This guy is not really cheap and some parts are old (in the 90's) but he has a big selection and may have the secs you need plus he has a good rating. Can you give me the mechanical and electrical specs? I will look. I don't own an MC2100.
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50v is fine. You can go up in voltage without any trouble at all. If you ordered them from McIntosh, you'd get 50V.
Lead spacing same thing as stud spacing. Lead as in follow, not lead as in heavy metal. :thmbsp:
Murray
When you put the new capacitors in, an easy way to tell if you oriented them correctly is to see if the vent hole is visible. Computer grade electrolytics have a small rubber cover over a hole about 3/16" in dia on the bottom. This vent allows vapors to escape to prevent the case from rupturing in the event of a catastrophic failure. Mcintosh punches a third hole in the chassis for each computer grade electrolytic to keep this vent exposed. From the inside of the chassis you should see the little rubber cover if oriented properly.
Also, when you remove the old capacitors, remember the stacking order of any solder posts and insulating washers (if any) under the screw head for each of the two terminals. This is usually a no-brainer since the wires are stiff and hold their relative positions pretty closely.
To summarize other posts:
. a rated voltage higher than 40v is OK but not lower
. a higher capacitance is preferred but stay =< 1.5x of the original (higher that 1.5x might cause an input current rush problem and blow fuses. Remember that big capacitors look like a black hole for current just after the power switch is flipped)
. a lower height is Ok and a larger height is OK too if you are not worried about appearances (the perferated cover may not fit)
. diameter is critical and stud spacing (center to center) is critical
. The studs on Mcintosh capacitors (and the most common I've seen) have a black plastic spacer that raises the top edge of the screw hole to about 1/4" above the bottom surface. Don't get a capacitor that has the threaded hole almost flush with the bottom and no spacer (somewhat rare). The black plastic spacers keep the two studs of the capacitor insulated from the steel chassis
. If you are really picky and it matters to you, remember that Mallory caps are blue not silver like the originals. Look at various ebay auctions for amps and you will undoubtly see some blue caps.
I draw this experience from working on 2200's and 2205's but I am sure 95% of it will also apply to 250's, 2505's, 2100's and 2105's (not the twist prong caps).
John
Also, when you remove the old capacitors, remember the stacking order of any solder posts and insulating washers (if any) under the screw head for each of the two terminals. This is usually a no-brainer since the wires are stiff and hold their relative positions pretty closely.
To summarize other posts:
. a rated voltage higher than 40v is OK but not lower
. a higher capacitance is preferred but stay =< 1.5x of the original (higher that 1.5x might cause an input current rush problem and blow fuses. Remember that big capacitors look like a black hole for current just after the power switch is flipped)
. a lower height is Ok and a larger height is OK too if you are not worried about appearances (the perferated cover may not fit)
. diameter is critical and stud spacing (center to center) is critical
. The studs on Mcintosh capacitors (and the most common I've seen) have a black plastic spacer that raises the top edge of the screw hole to about 1/4" above the bottom surface. Don't get a capacitor that has the threaded hole almost flush with the bottom and no spacer (somewhat rare). The black plastic spacers keep the two studs of the capacitor insulated from the steel chassis
. If you are really picky and it matters to you, remember that Mallory caps are blue not silver like the originals. Look at various ebay auctions for amps and you will undoubtly see some blue caps.
I draw this experience from working on 2200's and 2205's but I am sure 95% of it will also apply to 250's, 2505's, 2100's and 2105's (not the twist prong caps).
John
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Hi,
First, I want to thank you for your help!
The capacitrs replaced and it works fine
(CD 3186GE403U050BLA4 - 50V, 40,000µf)
I have B&W 685 speakers and i'm looking for preamp with bright tones.
I thought about Hufler.. but i didnt find with remote control (+- 300$).
With my Croft tube preamp the sound is muffled and sometimes even scrambled..
Could you recommend on preamp that might work good with my mc-2100 and the B&W?
Thank you,
First, I want to thank you for your help!
The capacitrs replaced and it works fine
(CD 3186GE403U050BLA4 - 50V, 40,000µf)
I have B&W 685 speakers and i'm looking for preamp with bright tones.
I thought about Hufler.. but i didnt find with remote control (+- 300$).
With my Croft tube preamp the sound is muffled and sometimes even scrambled..
Could you recommend on preamp that might work good with my mc-2100 and the B&W?
Thank you,
Whats wrong with the old ones?
