Making small holes in glass

markthefixer

On Hiatus, hospitalized and NOT doing Clutches
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I'm replacing a glass faceplate and it has 2 round holes through it for the tuning knob and a fm mute switch (pioneer sx-636) .

I have the broken original, held together with tape for accurate measurements, info on degree/color of tinting etc...

I did it in acrylic but as a "project" I'm making a glass faceplate. If it turns out good enough, I'll use it.

Cutting, sanding(edges etc) and the rest is covered, but what about holes from 1/4 to 3/8 inch ?

Anybody know any "tricks". ????
How is it done commercially?

p.s. I once ground a telescope mirror.(saturn was my first "view", wow)
 
I replaced the glass on an old Pioneer. I used a dremel with a stone tool. Put the glass on a sheet of wood and tape it in place. I had the speed on the dremel about half way up. Have a friend constantly pour a stream of water on the glass and slowly apply pressure. At first it will want to walk, but once you get the hole started it is pretty easy. If the glass gets to hot it will crack, so go slow. You might want to practice on a scrap piece to get a feel for it.
 
I start holes in glass with a diamond tip bit 1/8 inch and the use carbide tiped spade bits to enlage the hole and finally use a dremel with a grinding bit to finish. You can use a dam made of glazing putty to hold water for the first hole. After that, well now you have a hole! If you use a drill press you can hold a small bulb syringe in one hand to keep it wet. Sound too tedious? Stay with the plexiglass or check you local glass shop to see what they charge.
 
Drilling glass requires either a carbide tipped drill with an acute point (smaller than the typical 118 degrees) or a diamond grit tip.

Try McMaster.com or MSC.com for ideas.

Go slow, heat, is your enemy.
 
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Best way, if you have access to one, is a parts sandblaster. A friend of mine has one at his shop that they use for bead/sand blasting smaller engine parts,etc..
You'll want to mount the pane on a board with a pre drilled hole in it lined up were your hole will be in the glass ,then tape off everything witha couple layers of masking tape. I've used stainless washers with the correct diameter hole on top of the glass (centered of course over the hole in the backer board) as a template, then finish with a layer or two of good duct tape leaving the center of the washer clear. Just make sure that the washer is secure, no sliding. Air pressure will vary with the type of abrasive but we always used "play sand" from Home depot or Lowes and had good results.
Just don't forget the predrilled hole in the backer board or as soon as you're through the glass you will frost the backside if the abrasive can't escape.
 
I need things like that done on some of the restorations I do. Sometimes it is a partial hole, sometimes all the way thru.

I take that kind of work to the friendly guy at the little glass shop close by. He usually does it while I wait and it gets done right the first time. Most of the time he doesn't even charge me but if he does the total is under $10.

I know it isn't DIY but I hate doing things twice or worse, paying someone to fix what I screwed up.

Terry
 
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I have used diamond core drills from Rio Grande - a jewelry supply company. They have a range from 2 - 11mm including 6.5mm & 9.5mm which are close to 1/4 & 3/8". I run them at ~150-300 rpm with a dam of modelling clay to make a pool of water. The glass will crater as the drill goes through the far side though - you have to drill from each side & meet in the middle. So an accurate setup & a square machine (drill press at least) are required.

Rio Grande is at www.riogrande.com but their catalog is no longer on the web.

FYI
6.5mm core drill part # 349-005 $10.40 each
9.5mm core drill part # 349-006 $13.65 each
 
Thank You for the wealth of suggestions.
Gonna add a new skill to the old toolbox, glass driller!!!!
Got a lot of practice material to wreck!!!!
toodles....
 
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