Making Your Own Wood Cases...

Hello Godi, and Welcome to AK.

If you look at the date at the lower left of each message you will see the date that it was posted. This thread is from 2006/7. If you click on a member's avatar you can see when they last logged on to AK.

Enjoy - - -
 
It is OK to resurrect a dead thread. It is nice that the date of the OP shows up in the list though. We got a big problem on Usenet with that because sometimes the OP is literally dead. We were old when we got there. People using Google Groups are dredging up shit from like 1990. My computer in 1990 was a Radioshack TRS-80 COCO.

But anyway, why is this limited to Maranz receivers ? If you know how to cut and measure you can make a case for one so close nobody would ever know the difference. What's more, you can make a case for just about anything. In fact, I got one low ass class project up this summer. I have a totally beat SX-850, no top or bottom, glass broken, tuning knob shaft bent, and an SG-9500 with missing knobs and a couple of the pots don't work, stole the jacks off the back for other projects. (power transformer bad but now I found one for it) So I am thinking of throwing together a wood case for this "system" but really not for looks, but because I do not have the covers for either. but then I could stain the wood. Or I could use OSB.
 
I'm gonna try this project for one of My Marantz's....Any help,tips,or hints are greatly appreciated...In particular the dimensions for a 2230 Marantz...
If you've built one how did you proceed....
Thanks
I built one for my 4230. I measured it as I went along for a custom fit. I made it out of plywood and covered it with veneer. The vent came from a cabinet I had in my garage but I don't know what it was for.
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Good day to all. I am a new member who has a passion for vintage gear.
I just purchased on-line a WC-43 which is in worse shape than what it appeared in the pics. I am considering to either rebuild or make a new case. Question 1. What is the wood veneer used on these cases? Question 2. How are the 45 degree corners put together? Are the angles just glued or is some sort of bracing put into the angles to help support the seam? Would appreciate any assistance.
 
The wire mesh for ventilation on the top, rear of a wooden case I get at Office Depot. Look for office/desk accessories made of wire mesh--like in/out paper trays or waste baskets. They come in silver and black. Just make sure they are perfectly flat with no dings or dimples. Cut out the required piece with tin snips. Works great and looks quite nice.
Rick
 
Good day to all. I am a new member who has a passion for vintage gear.
I just purchased on-line a WC-43 which is in worse shape than what it appeared in the pics. I am considering to either rebuild or make a new case. Question 1. What is the wood veneer used on these cases? Question 2. How are the 45 degree corners put together? Are the angles just glued or is some sort of bracing put into the angles to help support the seam? Would appreciate any assistance.

If you can use the original case I would recommend that. It will save you a lot of work. I don't know what finish it now has but it may be able to be sanded and refinished or re veneered with the wood of your choice. YouTube has some good videos that show the process of applying veneer. I used them to get me started.
Either way if done right it could look nice.
 
Thank you very much kaplang. I will check into the YouTube re veneer videos and see what is involved.

I am not an expert but I can get the job done. If you have any specific questions feel free to message me. I will answer what I can.
 
I would love to have a solid wood case for my Yamaha. My receiver runs in the 55w range, and I rarely turn it up very high.
 
IIRC, the Marantz cases incorporated guide rails on the bottom. The rest of the construction was simple and had a lot of those triangular bracings. It's been awhile but there were threads out there on building the W-22.

A real good woodworker I know had a novel idea for wood cases. Buy a couple of pieces of specimen grade lumber, size to the sidewall dimensions. Inset neodymium magnets on the inside surface of the wood. The wood then, sticks magnetically to the metal case. If a user wanted something more towards the original, a wood top with ventilation screen could be attached to the sides.

IMO, the wood case days have passed and there are better manners of ventilation than covering a metal case with wood and just allowing a small screen area on top. If the gear sits idle or there is improper air circulation, all manner of dust and debris can enter through the screen. Is there anyone else that has seen what a candle or a spilled coke does to a circuit board?
 
M1.jpg M2.jpg Here is an example of what can be some with a simple cherry veneer. I left the mahogany beveled fronts alone, just stripped all the finish and clear-coated after the flat top and sides were re-veneered. I did not use a stain as this case needed to match up with a set of Paradigm se9 and stands that I had previously done in raw (unstained) cherry. The unstained but lacquered cherry veneer darkens a bit over time and develops a very rich hue.
 
View attachment 707430 View attachment 707431 Here is an example of what can be some with a simple cherry veneer. I left the mahogany beveled fronts alone, just stripped all the finish and clear-coated after the flat top and sides were re-veneered. I did not use a stain as this case needed to match up with a set of Paradigm se9 and stands that I had previously done in raw (unstained) cherry. The unstained but lacquered cherry veneer darkens a bit over time and develops a very rich hue.

Georgeous !
 
nothing wrong with resurrecting the :D ead threads at all. Especially DIY with dedicated inmates who do all kinds of stuff and just damned good reading, too.

any frigging dr. will recommend a hobby or varied interests Referring to OP or wood cutting. Been searching for a thread a guy built a fine trim saw for cutting up to about 2ft of scrap for trim edging. Another guy built a little slicer for fine cut offs. to find these blades.. dunno may have to be made? Not even 4" diameter blades.. more like 3 inch. Could be interesting to cut fine scrap and perhaps make ornate trim.. like reface the edging or apply finer bracing in speakers perhaps or cut a part for a guitar brace.. any ideas would be welcome. New thread? nothing wrong with this one.
 
I am looking to create a case for my Pioneer CTF1250 but I cannot find any measurements for the case. I'm guessing that the dimensions are slightly taller than the amp and tuner case, bit would be nice if I had the true dimensions. Anyone have any?
 
Thanks going to try and build one for my new Marantz 2230 this month. This was a very helpful post. I also want to re-wrap my Sansui 661 case. It's an old plastic/imitation wood and would prefer something better looking as it's in our main room at the house. Hey btw - I'm new to Audiokarma, how do I get people to respond to the discussion I start or who should I invite? ha I don't think I know anyone else that is a member. Thanks!!
 
All, very helpful thread. I just bought $50 of walnut, and going to give this go on my new Marantz 4270. Measure twice, cut once!
 
Just going to throw this out there for you thinking of trying this. Cases are pretty easy to do and there has been a few good ideas tossed out there BUT you have to have Patience. Dont expect to jump into this and finish it in a couple hours and expect it to look good especially if you have never tried finish woodworking before. Also start with good materials. Its a PITA to get set up and realize the board you are attempting to use is cupped, curved, twisted, or has knots that would be in view after construction. Garbage in, garbage out. Inspect the materials before you purchase them. And last but not least get a good Board Stretcher so if you cut your materials short, you can fix the problem, LOL.
 
One thing everyone should realize: woodworking,especially fine cabinet work,can get to be as expensive as a passion for good cigars and single malt Scotch.Tools tools tools,and then it becomes better and better and better tools. It never ends....

How do I know this? Well,our first big snowstorm of the year is hitting as we speak,but I'm still heading out to go look at some wood and pick up a new lock miter bit for my router table.Just a little experience talking here:)
 
Sounds like a great project! Keep us updated. I've got access to some nice quality wood types on the cheap cause I have a lot of extended family that work as contractors. Maybe I should give something like this a go myself.
 
You get a table saw and set it for 45* and break out a tape measure. There are dementions for the wooden sleeves that slide over a piece of equipment. Fact is the thicker the wood the easier it's is to assemble. If fact it doesn't take much at all to cut up the pieces once you have the table saw blade set to the right angle. It's a trial and error situation cause you can always cut another piece. Then you can use metal shears to cut thicker sheet metal to create reinforcements attached from the back corners that support structural integrity. Prior drilling of holes and using small headless nails and wood putty works great for assembly and cosmetics. Just remember it's only wood working and not rocket science. But it does take allot of premeditated thinking.....
 
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