Man vs. Beast: CA-2010 restoration project
- Thread starter DaaDaa
- Start date
DaaDaa
Set the controls for the heart of the pun
what bipolar transistor would be recommended to quivalnet to D476A + B566A pair. this page has like 40 equivalnets listed which makes it difficult to choose one
https://www.el-component.com/bipolar-transistors/2sd476a
https://www.el-component.com/bipolar-transistors/2sd476a
TIP41 and TIP42
DaaDaa
Set the controls for the heart of the pun
oh thanks youre a life saver. this completed a mouser order including the omron relays for 2010 like you recommended a while back.
what is still a mystery is those Mylar caps. you told me that mylar is the same as polyester. well mouser does not have caps called polyester as well. so the problem is that when i go to mouser.com and click on passive components and then click on capacitors. there is no category for mylar and there is no category for polyester. there is polymer, safety caps, and mica caps. i suspects one of those is equivalent?
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bull...They have thousands of them.
2766 different ones in stock...
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Comp..._/N-9x371?P=1yznbzr&Keyword=polyester&FS=True
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Comp..._/N-9x371?P=1yznbzr&Keyword=polyester&FS=True
DaaDaa
Set the controls for the heart of the pun
"Mylar" is a trade mark for a polyester film used to manufacture the capacitors.
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/mylar
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/mylar
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dly66
Super Member
Personally I have been using the Kemet R82 line and have been happy with the results. If you look at the datasheet and note the two digit letter codes you can get them with long leads. They usually readily slip in for the small electrolytic caps the pin spacing is normally 5 mm.
The red WIMA MKS2 film caps have a strong following. I think they usually have 5 mm long legs if bulk. I just did a quick search if they are the cut tape packaging they should have longer leads. I need to keep that in mind in the future. I have used them before too.
Panasonic made a favorite but I think they quit making the smaller version and if you try to use the big ones you need some room on the board. Some vintage designs leave a lot of room around components, some cram it in. Having been inside a CA-610II and CR-800 Yamaha likes to cram things in there.
Overhauled a CA-610II that had a blown driver transistor and fusible resistor feeding the output transistor originally created a badly distorted channel. A very loose speaker selector switch solder tabs making contact with the metal plate on the side of the headphone jack next to it probably caused the destruction. DVM check found it.
In it a TO-220 transistor in the power supply with a simple u-shaped heatsink, I forget the model number, gets so hot it had been turning the board black. You need to get the heat away from the board. I think I need to raise mine even more. I think on the 610II that transistor/heatsink combo runs at least 160 F or more during operation. Replaced it with a newer transistor with a better multi-fin heat sink it still runs at least 140F.
The red WIMA MKS2 film caps have a strong following. I think they usually have 5 mm long legs if bulk. I just did a quick search if they are the cut tape packaging they should have longer leads. I need to keep that in mind in the future. I have used them before too.
Panasonic made a favorite but I think they quit making the smaller version and if you try to use the big ones you need some room on the board. Some vintage designs leave a lot of room around components, some cram it in. Having been inside a CA-610II and CR-800 Yamaha likes to cram things in there.
Overhauled a CA-610II that had a blown driver transistor and fusible resistor feeding the output transistor originally created a badly distorted channel. A very loose speaker selector switch solder tabs making contact with the metal plate on the side of the headphone jack next to it probably caused the destruction. DVM check found it.
In it a TO-220 transistor in the power supply with a simple u-shaped heatsink, I forget the model number, gets so hot it had been turning the board black. You need to get the heat away from the board. I think I need to raise mine even more. I think on the 610II that transistor/heatsink combo runs at least 160 F or more during operation. Replaced it with a newer transistor with a better multi-fin heat sink it still runs at least 140F.
DaaDaa
Set the controls for the heart of the pun
the same pair of bipolar transistors in A-1 are raised by just one nut from in the power supply board and there is no scorching in the board, but in the 2010 the same pair of bipolars are trying on the board and the heat sink has almost no thermal paste and the board is black from burning. strange.
DaaDaa
Set the controls for the heart of the pun
dly66
Super Member
I have run into that fun before. You think it should be loose but won't budge. Keep looking around it you are apparently overlooking something that is still keeping it down. I have spent some time trying to figure out why something that seems like it should be loose won't budge. Sometimes what is still holding it down is not easy to see until you look at it the right way.
DaaDaa
Set the controls for the heart of the pun
Got it. saw the 4 screws. I'll be using the pre amp function and in particular the phono input of this amp heavily so Following what mr. Yamaha did. I'll be replacing the caps in this board. Specially those seven blue caps in the signal path with electrolytic ones.
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dly66
Super Member
Have you looked at the service manual? The '73 vintage CR-800 manual devotes several pages describing how to get several things apart and to remove certain boards and panels. Its crammed the front and back pivot out when you remove certain screws its not necessarily intuitive. It takes some work to open up one of those, they folded a lot together. Worked on other brands Yamaha construction techniques were a bit different. They give some pretty good instructions. It may help trying to open that guy up.
You can download the service manual from hifiengine.com for free once you sign up. They have both the service manual and operator manual. Service manuals can be really helpful.
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/ca-2010.shtml
You can download the service manual from hifiengine.com for free once you sign up. They have both the service manual and operator manual. Service manuals can be really helpful.
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/ca-2010.shtml
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dly66
Super Member
The AK database just has the operator's manual and a schematic. Here is the schematic it may be clearer than what is in the hifiengine manual.
http://akdatabase.com/AKview/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=57
http://akdatabase.com/AKview/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=57
dly66
Super Member
You might want to check the bias against the service manual spec. When the bias is getting too high things will get hotter and having adjusted bias on units with a kill-a-watt on the incoming AC as the bias gets more out of spec to the high side the more power the amp draws at idle. At a certain point the power draw starts escalating.
dly66
Super Member
Another thing is oxidation of controls, pots, and switches. That can cause intermittent behavior and signals going in and out. Bad and cracked solder joints on boards can also drive you crazy with intermittent behavior and either can be the cause of loss of signal. Often on a misbehaving piece unless there is obviously evidence of failure in the amp circuits a deoxit treatment may cure the ills. I acquired an Onkyo TX-4500 Mk II earlier this year that had spent decades in an attic and several rounds of deoxit got a wreck that looked like it had a major failure inside largely operating again. There is a sticky on using it attached. Often I order it when ordering from Parts Express but in the past have gotten at a Guitar Center.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...diots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/
Curious that amp is rated 120 wpc. Seems like if cured of its ills should be able to do it all.
My past experience crackling noises can come from ills deoxit can fix. Crackling and certain other noises can also be from transistors acting up. In the CA-610II on the channel that had the blown driver transistor after being fixed and operating well if I let the cd player stop and let it idle in the quiet background I could hear bursting noises, akin to the crackling sound on am radio when thunderstorms are nearby. Apparently when the driver had blown it had stressed the two 2SA844 transistors in the amp channel and after about 10 minutes they would start making noise in the background, only obvious when the amp was idling. Gently tapping them with a plastic tuner tool would get them to make the weirdest noises. Replaced both types with 2SA1015s in both channels it has been totally quiet in the background since. I had the 2SA666 differential pair on a Sherwood S-7200 amp act up and they would start going rat-a-tat-tat after about 10 minutes. Freeze spray would initially calm them down. If this is like the CA-610II the 5-legged 2SA798 does the same job. Replaced them with a pair of KSA992s. Posted a video with what that crackling sounded like:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...diots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/
Curious that amp is rated 120 wpc. Seems like if cured of its ills should be able to do it all.
My past experience crackling noises can come from ills deoxit can fix. Crackling and certain other noises can also be from transistors acting up. In the CA-610II on the channel that had the blown driver transistor after being fixed and operating well if I let the cd player stop and let it idle in the quiet background I could hear bursting noises, akin to the crackling sound on am radio when thunderstorms are nearby. Apparently when the driver had blown it had stressed the two 2SA844 transistors in the amp channel and after about 10 minutes they would start making noise in the background, only obvious when the amp was idling. Gently tapping them with a plastic tuner tool would get them to make the weirdest noises. Replaced both types with 2SA1015s in both channels it has been totally quiet in the background since. I had the 2SA666 differential pair on a Sherwood S-7200 amp act up and they would start going rat-a-tat-tat after about 10 minutes. Freeze spray would initially calm them down. If this is like the CA-610II the 5-legged 2SA798 does the same job. Replaced them with a pair of KSA992s. Posted a video with what that crackling sounded like:
