Man vs. Beast: CA-2010 restoration project

ON Semi has a large range of zeners too. I generally order from Digikey and they seem to stock the ON stuff in a lot of values.
 
thanks. ordered. This is shaping up to be a complete restoration. pretty much every single cap will be replaced along with many others including these diodes wherever applicable.
 
Nichicon muse Green that says BP on them, dont have a polarity, right? i can put it in, however the hell i damn well please? lol

zJPiWdo.jpg
 
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Yes, they don’t have polarity. BTW Those blue caps seems tantalum caps. If so, I would replace them.
 
Yes, they don’t have polarity. BTW Those blue caps seems tantalum caps. If so, I would replace them.
yes they are and replacing them is the plan.
i found an old restoration topic wherethey diuscuss these very same caps and they conclude to use Nichicon UKL series electrolytic caps which is exactly what im doing.
hopefully they will fit in that tight spot.
 
Modern replacements in general run a good bit smaller than the original 70s ones. At the values of most tantalum caps the new electrolytics will just be taller not much wider. Can also consider film for the small values, have mostly ended up with films where most tantalums were (3.3 uF and below).
 
I've just finished a resto on a CA2000, I used Nichicon PW in power supply areas, and Nichicon KT Audio grade caps in the signal path.....

Yes the Green Muse caps (ES) are Bi-Polar and so it does not matter which way they go.

Those are tantalums those blue ones, and they are all 100µf. I replaced them with KT Audio Caps.
There were also some FG Audio Grade Nichicons here and there as well.

Main caps I used Nichicon KG Gold Tunes.

On that preamp board you are working on there, you need to remove that switch assembly and dismantle those switches to clean them properly. They are all silver coated contacts and they tarnish, you'll find all that black crap all over them, the deoxit does not remove it, but it can slightly dissolve/dislodge it and then it gets under the contacts and you have drop out issues....

I also fitted heatsinks to the regulators and stood them up on the power supply board. That board gets very scorched with them lying down the way they do...

I managed to modify the stupid Meter Illumination circuit so I could get some LED's in there as well...

Just finished aligning it all and now I am having a listen...Yamaha made some nice gear, sounds really nice.
Couple of pics...
IMG_6634.JPG IMG_6639.JPG IMG_6640.JPG IMG_6642.JPG
 
Nichicon muse Green that says BP on them, dont have a polarity, right? i can put it in, however the hell i damn well please? lol

zJPiWdo.jpg
what are those 4 blue caps on the left end of the picture? they look like some kind of film cap.
 
Modern replacements in general run a good bit smaller than the original 70s ones. At the values of most tantalum caps the new electrolytics will just be taller not much wider. Can also consider film for the small values, have mostly ended up with films where most tantalums were (3.3 uF and below).
Tantalum electrolytic capacitors. Replace with either film or aluminum electrolytics.
 
tantalum capacitors in certain situations have disappointed me . i remember when they were all the rage . i must have been all of 12 years old back then .. last forever like transistors..they said
 
I almost always miss something and either do a small order or tack it to the next project order. Hard to be perfect. Often easy to overlook a bipolar when everything has been polarized. The first class option at Digikey (<8 oz) can sometimes come in handy for cheaper shipping.

Tantalums must be an early 70s thing. The S-7200 and KR-7400 had a number of them and looking inside the CR-800 it has a number of them too. Tall and blue like those pictured. Tall coated caps that look basically like a peanut m&m standing on its end have been tantalums in my experience so far. Every one I have put in my transistor tester so far read high ESR. A pair out of the Sherwood actually tested as diodes. Both the Sherwood and Kenwood were much quieter in terms of background noise with new electrolytics and film caps.
 
I replaced a couple of tants in my Sony turntable with new production (kemet I think) tants, but after reading about it's conflict mineral status I'll avoid them in the future.

I know that standard aluminums are a bad replacement for them in certain turntable circuits but I'd think for audio it's less critical.

I too favor digikey over mouser due to the 1st class option. Especially for oops orders. Made one myself last night after realizing a metal bodied barrel plug was going to be a smaaaall problem for my AC-AC wall wart powered phono stage. 16v on the chassis anyone? :eek:
 
I am building a small order on digikey right now I will probably order this weekend. I have a saved project at mouser mainly targeted on the SX-9000 with some bits for some other units and I think it is sitting at just under $200. A dozen MJ21194s for 3 receivers is a good chunk of that.
 
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