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Marantz 1030 Power caps question

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by Keith Baran, Sep 16, 2017.

  1. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    Hello all

    I’m on the last leg of a 1030 refurb, my first ever. The problem on the P700 is repaired, the amp board P700 and pre amp P500 are recapped, and everything is working and sounds great. The only things left is the re-cap of the P800, P900, and the three output caps. Here lies my questions..

    1) The P800 C 803 is 470uf 63v I ordered the largest on I could find on Mouser but if you look at my picture you will see the leads are quite different. The stock cap has more robust leads, the holes in the circuit board are larger. Will the one in the picture from Mouser be ok to use?

    2) This leads into my second question, I have the same scenario with the output caps, the ones I received from Mouser are way too small. The cans are large but the leads will never handle those large attachment. Does anyone have the specific Mouser number for the three output caps?

    3) Finally, the caps on the phono board P900 have what looks like little antennas on them?? Can someone explain this and are those special?

    Thanks to all the input I received on this project, it took waay longer than it should but work duties and home duties only allowed very little time on this but, it now sounds great!!

    Any input would be greatly appreciated
    Regards

    Keith
    . caps.jpg
     

     

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  2. Bert 1100

    Bert 1100 Super Member

    Messages:
    1,176
    Location:
    Planquiri, Switzerland
    1) no problem. just bend the leads as needed.

    2) The big caps are : 1 is the power supply (the biggest) and 2 are the output coupling caps.
    the size of the caps and of the leads is not a problem, but the only proper way to mount them is : get new brackets of the proper size, or use custom-made rings or something as a reducing adapter.
    the fact the leads are smaller is not a problem if the cap is secured properly in its bracket.
    Some part numbers or photos of what you have planned to use would be good.

    3) hmmm again some photo would be useful, I don't see what this could be ?
     
  3. Bert 1100

    Bert 1100 Super Member

    Messages:
    1,176
    Location:
    Planquiri, Switzerland
    As for physical size, going up in voltage rating can be useful. You can use an 80 or 100V rated cap where there was a 63V. Or use a 50V where there was a 25 or 35V cap...

    And for power supply caps (and only supply filter caps, main or local) like the main big one, you can go up in capacitance +50%, no problem.
     
  4. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    Hi Bert, Thanks for your input, I finished the P800, those caps worked fine, I taped them down while soldered them to keepm them from moving due to the large holes on the PCB.I've attached several pictures, the first is the "antennas" picture. The resistors are attached to the caps? Do I just solder the resistor leg to the new cap? and finally there are several picture of the three cap showing their large terminals as opposed to the ones I bought from Mouser. I would like to get as close to the original size so I'm looking for those part numbers. Once again thanks for taking the time
    Regards
    Keith
     

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  5. Bert 1100

    Bert 1100 Super Member

    Messages:
    1,176
    Location:
    Planquiri, Switzerland
    What is the diameter of the original caps ? And the value of the original coupling caps ?
    Then I can do a bit of searching.
     
  6. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

    Messages:
    9,656
    Location:
    Prescott, Arizona
    Ah, the "antennas" are a circuit modification to add a resistor. The easiest thing would be to get an axial cap, one leg out each end, as is the one in there. The Vishay AML138 series is well loved around here for that. It looks like it says 100uF and 6.3V on the side. I would use Mouser part 594-2222-138-36101 if it fits. It is 18mm long so just might do.
     
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  7. FOH Engineer

    FOH Engineer Addicted Member

    Messages:
    6,500
    Location:
    Fenwick Island
    Good luck finishing up..these are great pieces to listen to, and they have a cool vibe.
     
  8. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    Thanks for the input. Bert, the physical size & rating of those caps are :
    Power Supply = Diameter is 1.4 inches, height is 2.75 inches 4700uf 55V
    Output Coupling Caps = Diameter is 1.2 inches, height is 1.75 inches 22oouf 35V
     
  9. Leestereo

    Leestereo Super Member

    Messages:
    2,145
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
  10. Blue Shadow

    Blue Shadow I gotta get me a new title

    Messages:
    21,480
    Location:
    SE PA
    Interesting that you increase the capacitance of the coupling caps, changing the frequency response of the amp. With the 2200 and an 8Ω load, V-Caps calculator says the response is to about 9Hz, increasing to the 6800, one gets 3.x Hz. For the 1030 and its limited power, this might use up some amp power that could be better put into the speakers, if there is signal in the 0-10Hz range. Just a comment. I used 2200 in the rebuild I did. Don't know if I would have noticed a difference if I had used a much higher value.
     
  11. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    OK, one more exposure of my ignorance, Unit is completely re-capped , sounds great by the way, now what I thought would be the easiest part has me puzzled. The adjustment procedure in the service manual states on page 2 " Power Amp Adjustment" Place a volt meter across R747 and adjust trimming resistor R729 until meter reads 7.5m VDC, then repeat with meter on R748 adjusting R730. Well I have my meter across 747 range set at 0.000vdc and the meter reads 0.000. Same on 748. I haven't touched R 729 or 730 I peeled back some of the heat shrink that is on the resistor leg. I'm certain I'm making contact. I can check other things both AC and DC with good results so I know my meter is working. What am I missing???? yes, the unit is plugged in and turned on :)
     

     

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  12. Richs_Trains

    Richs_Trains AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    728
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Make sure your meter is set for mV not volts. Just a thought

    1030_before.jpg

    1030_after.jpg

    Before and after 1030
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2017
  13. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    Thanks for your reply, yes it's set up for mv. Is there any possible way the unit would still work if indeed there was no voltage across those resistors? I replaced all electrolytic caps and removed ,tested and re-installed output caps. That's about it.
     
  14. Richs_Trains

    Richs_Trains AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    728
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    I would guess you are not getting a good connection, you should have some reading and it usually fluctuates slightly when the unit is powered up and reaches operating temp, so having zero on both is suspicious. More than likely, you are close if the unit was in good condition, but it is always good to dial in these vintage units. I am not sure on the 1030, but many off the units you can find the same test points in a more accessible location. Hopefully someone with actual knowledge will chime in, because I'm really not that guy. good luck Rich
     
  15. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    Thanks Rich, I was starting to pull up the schematic when my 2 year old grandson decided he wanted to come stay overnight while his parents went to the movies, LOL, so.... maybe tomorrow and yes I hope someone chimes in. I'm green on these amps but not to component troubleshooting. Anything is possible, I often amaze myself, when I do something really lame, I step back and ask"how did I get this far in life" but we carry on. LOL Thanks for the input.
    Regards
    Keith
     
  16. willyrover

    willyrover Super Member

    Messages:
    3,124
    Location:
    Hamilton
    In my 1060, connecting to the legs of the resistors themselves was hopeless. They were coated with something nonconductive.

    Instead, follow the traces to the corresponding pin on the bottom edge of the driver board and clip your meter there.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2017

     

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  17. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    Completed!! Sounds great!! Thanx for everyone's help!! Marantz complete 2.jpg Marantz complete 3.jpg
     
  18. Bert 1100

    Bert 1100 Super Member

    Messages:
    1,176
    Location:
    Planquiri, Switzerland
    Nice ! Good job!
     
  19. Keith Baran

    Keith Baran Member

    Messages:
    78
    Location:
    Nashville
    Hello all,
    Question, The amp in this thread, a Marantz 1030. I finished re-capping it on Oct 19th, 2017. I checked for hum or noise at that time. 8ohm speakers attached, nothing playing, full volume and only a very faint hiss if your ear was against the speaker. This amp has seen use everyday since then, anywhere from 1 to 12 hours a day, low to moderate volumes since with no problems. Today I bent down to pick something up in front of the left speaker and there is a quiet but noticeable hiss in that speaker only, volume about 9 o'clock, it gets louder with the volume knob, then when I hit 1 o'clock on the volume knob it gets exponentially louder until 3 o'clock, there it drops back a bit, then at full volume it disappears completely . Right channel is silent regardless of pot position and balance has no affect, if I balance completely to the right, still hiss in left. Also different input selections change the behavior a bit but really the same issue.
    Any ideas?
    Regards
    Keith
     
  20. tonebells

    tonebells AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    921
    Location:
    Florida
    Could be the 2SC458 transistors on the tone board. They get noisy. KSC1845 are the popular subs.

    Tony
     
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