Marantz 1030 recap list

Hey Steven. Watched your video on the desoldering gun. Good job.

When I looked at the schematic after reading the thread about the 15mv adjustment I also assumed this value was double the 7.5 due to it being measured across two resistors. Hopefully others can confirm and also educate me on what pins and how the DC balance is determined.
 
Yes, I haven't dealt with that DC balance issue yet. I know I have seen it explained how to get it close without a scope, and what you are saying sounds right. I'm sure someone who knows will verify. Looking at the schematic, it looks like you should be able measure between J715/723 and adjust R723 on one side and between J716/724 and adjust R724 on the other. I'm just not sure if the 25.5V is correct. You could always measure those pins and see if they are in the neighborhood of what you expect or just wait for someone who knows what the heck they are doing. :D
 
Finished the 500 tone board this evening and on to the 900 phono as soon as I can. I have a couple of questions though… first one being the large Green Mylar caps ( .22uF ) located at C501/02…should these Greenies be replaced or just left in place? I remember reading on a previous thread not long ago, that the Large Greenies should always be replaced or are there exceptions to that rule? Next question is regarding the 2, 6.3V 100uF Axial caps located at C909/10 on the 900 board . I assume these should be replaced with Radial caps , but there are also Resistors attached to these caps. First off should these resistors also be replaced ( if so suggestion for a replacement ) and is there special way I should be installing the resistors with the new Radial caps?? I have yet to encounter this cap/resistor set up.
 

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The greenies are a personal choice. If they are currently working they will likely stay that way longer than your recap. But most of us, I think, replace them with Panasonic polypropylene films of the same or similar value. They'll be a little big so you have to get creative with the lead bending but I know there's plenty of pictures of 2230's or similar that have used these.

As for that 900 board I've never seen anything like that. Interesting installation. I would be tempted to keep it the same with a replacement axial cap soldered with a new resistor. Bands look like brown/black/brown (confirm?) so 100-ohm. Easy to go with a 100-ohm, half watt metal film as a replacement. Just a few cents. I'm sure someone else will chime in with a way to use a radial cap.

Oh, and looks like there might be 4 C458 transistors on that board. Definitely replace those as they are on the bad list. Known for failure.
 
Will place the order for the big Greenies as I have a couple of other units that require them as well. I already have the replacements for the 4 C458 transistors. As for the resistors yes they are the Brown /Black/ Brown type so would this be a suitable replacement...http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG/DQawzJ6c7PahGqep11xfw%3.

I will wait a little to see if there are any more suggestions regarding how to install the radial caps in that position. Seems as though I remember reading a thread about this same thing. I will continue searching the topic on here.
 
not sure if that link went through so will try this again..Would the resistors suit the bill for a replacement?
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R101J/?qs=DG1n8gfZNTsgm1lQXnAQZw==

Just in case link doesn't work the part # is ......660-MF1/4LCT52R101J


Also as I'm basically following a posted parts list, I have 2 resistors for location..R014/015 but I can't seem to find where these should go. The mouser part # is 660-MF1/2DCT52R2R21F...any ideas or am I missing what probably is right under my eyes.
 
1/4 watt should work if they're the same size as most other resistors on that board. But if they're as big as R924 in your picture [red/red/yel/gold] then they would be 1/2 watt and you'll need to adjust your selection accordingly.

I'm not familiar with a 1030 or it's parts list but usually numbers that start with zero are what I call system parts or not on a board. These are likely somewhere on or near the chassis. Probably underside somewhere.
 
Yep. Looks like R014/R015 are connected to the coupling caps C003/C004 along with the choke coil. If it's anything like the 2230 that's a big mess of wires down there. Good luck!
 
Great just what I needed to hear!! hahaha....thanks Mike I will need all the luck I can get.

While i have you, I was about to place an order for parts from Mouser for another project a Pioneer SX 950 however 1 transistor is on back order PT# 863-MJE15033G and I have no idea how long it will take for it to come in and when it does I'd have to pay $20 shipping for 1- $2.16 part. would there be an equivalent you could recommend?
 
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Also as I'm basically following a posted parts list, I have 2 resistors for location..R014/015 but I can't seem to find where these should go. The mouser part # is 660-MF1/2DCT52R2R21F...any ideas or am I missing what probably is right under my eyes.
 
Appears to be 4 resistors so which 2 would I be replacing? The list only suggested two with part # listed above that are 2.2 ohm1/2 W.
 
They are the red red gold resisters. This is how they are on most of the 1030s I have done (the other picture may have been a 1060). they are wired to the output caps so I just replace them.
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The unit I'm working on, has these resistors located differently, but they are the only ones there so I can assume these are the ones to be replaced.
 

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Does anyone know what the diodes that are attached to the heat sinks are. Value? Designation on the p700 amp board? Marantz number? Mouser number?
Thanks in advance
 
I believe they are the Bias Diodes Marantz PT# HV0000212 SV-3A at H005/H006 locations on the 700 PCB. Not a hundred percent certain this is correct so hopefully someone with more experience will chime in to confirm. I'm a rookie myself , and don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.
 

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Mouser number?
Most likely they are the bias diodes, SV-3A, like Dearslayer mentioned. Are they 2 of them, attached at either side of the top of the heatsink by a bracket ?
These SV-3A are not obtainable anymore and there are no modern replacements.
Beware, the wires are stiff and like to break off the diode, so try not to bend them at all !
Do you think yours are bad ? I thought mine were bad because they would read open both ways on my DMM. BUT they were just fine, it is just that they have a bigger voltage drop than usual diodes and many meters will not register it.
 
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