Marantz 1030 Very Sweet Rebuild!

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patfont

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Came across a little 1030 that needs some love and attention. Has 3 different types of outputs, a cap on the amplifier board is in backwards, 4A "slow blow" fuse (should be 1.5A!) but do not worry I was told it was serviced???

The faceplate is very nice so I wanted to bring her back up to speed.

Started by installing an LED power lamp:

IMG_3734.JPG



Here is a shot of the outputs, as found.


IMG_3719.JPG
 
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Got the heat sink removed and have the new outputs installed. I used solid teflon tube for the heat sink pass through, you can see it in the close up in the second pic.


IMG_3723.JPG IMG_3724.jpg
 
On to the power supply. Diodes were upgraded, caps are Elna Silmic II. The largest cap is a Nichicon KS, rarely can you use a KG or KS on the power supply, but if value/fit are good you can not do better!


IMG_3738.jpg
 
I got the amp board proper done, but will need to replace the right channel bias pot, I will do both channels while I am at it. Cool thing about this set up, you can sneak in at top of board and R&R bias pots without the board opened up.


IMG_3739-1.jpg
 
Got on a roll on this long week end and got her done!

Added new Bourns bias trimmers. (These are direct drop in lead spacing, no bending and contorting the leads.)

Mundorf EVO oil's at the preamp inputs.

Nichicon KG power and coupler caps, sounds just as expected, very smooth and sweet!


IMG_3740.JPG
 
Did this one have the front to rear upper chassis reinforcing bars and the phono amp cover? Just curious as to whether Marantz continued these over the years of that unit's production. Looks like you will be done for this unit's 45th birthday. Nice save.
 
Don't forget those 458 transistors. :D I think I replaced 6 to 8 of them. My daughter has my 1030 now. My son had it until I found a second 1060 to rebuild for him.
 
I was wondering if there is some reason why you did'nt use to3 type output transistors.also how did you isolate the output collectors from the heatsink.
 
audiomaniac2 said:
I was wondering if there is some reason why you did'nt use to3 type output transistors.also how did you isolate the output collectors from the heatsink.
Click to expand...

Check out the pics above and there is a close up of the transistor installation. Mica behind the transistor, and if you look at both leads going through the heat sink you can see the solid teflon tubing that I used. The original type outputs are very hard to find, and fairly expensive. While doing a rebuild I like matching transistors, if I have one bad or non original most times I will replace them all. After setting center voltage and bias I like the transistors to all run within a couple degrees temp wise.
 
What did you use to replace the OEM oil filled PS caps? These are C006,7 and 8
 
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Mike Hi and welcome to AK!
According to the SM, only C006, C005 and C010 are oil caps on the power supply board. I believe these are usually OK to leave alone as they are very stable. If you go to the AK database you will find posts of the 2230 cap list and Service Manuals. If you run into issues or have questions with your unit, just start a new thread.
http://akdatabase.com/AKview/
2230 power caps.JPG
 
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