THAT'S a real nice one. Even so, the cheaper one I own I use all of the time and if it stopped working I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another...
I'll take a picture of the transistors I'm going to remove, take them out, and then use the tester to identify the e,c, and b. Then, I'll compare with the silkscreen on the board. If it matches, then I'll test the new one for it's pinout, and make sure the right legs go in the right holes. Almost foolproof.
If the silkscreen is wrong, then I have to go back to the photo I took and see what legs were in what holes and put it back in the tester to determine what the holes really should be marked.
As far as the Marantz goes, I'm going to pull the phono pre-amp out altogether and switch my focus upon what looks to be a larger issue with the power supply. 22VDC coming out of the speaker posts is worrisome.
Thanks to the archives on this forum, I was able, last night, to diagnose and repair an NAD 3155 that had been gathering dust in the basement. And so now I'll be able listen to some music while I'm wrestling with the ol' 1060.
Thanks, all. I'll be back eventually to report on my progress.
Is this with no load, ie no resistor across the speaker terminals? Don't forget this is a cap coupled amplifier. As you have probably seen in the service manual, they have a centre voltage adjustment not a DC offset adjustment as one would see on a DC amp.
After a long break, I've resumed work on this stereo. Before I address the phono board issue, it looks like I've got something goofy going on with one side of the power amp. Since it's a whole new topic, I'll create a new thread. But before I go, I wish to thank y'all for suggesting I buy one of those super cheap and useful parts-testers. Those things are fantastic.