Marantz 2215B recap

[pingu_turbo]

Hi guys, I finally got around to recapping my little 2215B. I was a little apprehensive at doing this at first because my good wife tells me that she loves the sound that comes from it, even more so than my 2230. :scratch2: Personally I disagree, and hear a totally different sound to her through both units. That's the difference between ears I guess! :yes:

Anyway I have already post about the purchase of this unit here and the comprehensive instructions on how to re lamp it here

I do really like this little receiver but it does sound, to me, a little short on top and very warm or muffled down the bottom. So I feel that something is in need to be done. So initially I will start with the power supply P800 board.

The new parts to go in. I am going to try the mundorf vs the nichicon to see what happens. Either way one will be used in another project.

Here is a pic of the old caps on the board, notice the wrap having shrank on one of the caps. It may be just in time for this one.

The board with old caps removed, I hate this glue for removing! :nono:

Cleaned up somewhat.

Anyway here are the old parts out.

And the new ones fitted. I had to fit the replacement C803 off centre because the original was a three prong unit, one prong being a anchor. The spacing was correct for the other two pins and I didn't want to drill new holes just for these caps. OCD allowed for this.

Testing revealed that the sound quality has been bumped up a notch and extended the capabilities of both the highs and lows, but nothing what it could be. I have only burned these in for about 8 hours or so, I have been recommended to burn in a lot longer than this for the mundorf.

 

[pingu_turbo]

Well after giving this little 2215B 14 hours or so things have began to stretch their legs. I must say the sound is quite charming and not fatiguing at all. A totally different flavour to before, in a good way. My wife cannot believe the difference, this is really her receiver for her office so she knows it well.

I, on the other hand, have itchy fingers and have dived into the unit once again. This time attacking the pre amp board PE01. I had some help from patfont for this one as he is the audition expert when it come to recapping and I wanted this one to be as best as it could be based on his expertise. Below shows the PE01 removed, it does require removal of the front face and the detachment of the bass and treble pots from the chassis to do this. It is the most difficult board to on this receiver, if you can call it difficult.

New parts to go in

Old parts out

Empty board

New parts in

Unfortunately I haven't been able to listen to the latest update as yet. Throughout the day a cold has reared it ugly head and consequently I am full of it! I will listen when my ears are a little clearer. I am annoyed. :thumbsdn: I hate being ill.

But anyway, time will tell. If I can remember what it sounded like before. :scratch2:

 

[1978_DREAMER]

Nice work! I'm really proud of guys like you that dig into a receiver like that. I have to believe you just added 30 more years of enjoyment to that unit.

 

[Leestereo]

Looks good Pingu. You should also consider replacing the diodes with "soft recovery" types. Regarding the old glue, use nail polish remover (acetone or ethyl acetate type) to soften the old glue and it will peel off much more easily. There will be no damage to the silk screening on the board.

 

[patfont]

Looking very nice! I hope you are feeling better quickly so you can hear better.

 

[TravAndAlex]

Do you have a parts list you can share?

 

[pingu_turbo]

Thanks for the replies guys. I was wondering about the diodes after seeing PatFont's 1050 thread. I could do with a little help with what to use leestereo, I am fairly new to this restoring vintage gear thing, I do really thoroughly enjoy it too. If there is any info that I could supply that would help, I would be much appreciated.

Thanks again Pat for your help with the caps, I cannot wait for this cold to pass for me to have hearing again.

As for a parts list, I haven't got one specifically as I haven't made my decisions as what to put where. When its done I'll have one available then.

And yes hopefully it will last another 30 years.

 

[drabina]

Good work!

Couple of years back, I have recapped my 2216 which is almost identical to your 2215B. I really liked the sound after the recap (used gold Nichicons UPWs, I think). Since then, the receiver is on for about 8 hours a day and still sounds fantastic. I haven't changed anything else besides electrolytic caps so I also would be interested if there is anything else that should be replaced.

 

[Kahoona]

Great job. Neat and careful work. At that age you have to be hearing an improvement but no joy can be declared until your wife says she still likes it. Let us know please.

 

[omri617]

Why did you decide to Recap only , and not replacing the rest of the things in there?

 

[Leestereo]

I was wondering about the diodes after seeing PatFont's 1050 thread. I could do with a little help with what to use leestereo, I am fairly new to this restoring vintage gear thing, I do really thoroughly enjoy it too. If there is any info that I could supply that would help, I would be much appreciated.

Here are my suggestions: for the unregulated voltage circuit with U05B (2.5A, 100V) diodes, replace with UF5405 (3A, 500V) fast, soft recovery diodes. For the regulated voltage circuit (H806, H807) with W06B (0.75A, 150V) diodes, replace with UF4005 (1A, 600V) fast, soft recovery diodes. You should also replace the H808 diode that supplies the lamps with a UF4005 diode. Note that both suggested replacement parts have a forward voltage drop of 1.7V to slightly lower the DC voltages closer to the original specs with today's AC mains voltages that are higher than when the units were originally made.

 

[pingu_turbo]

posted double, dumbass you are!

imagine in a yoda voice

 

[pingu_turbo]

Thanks Kahoona, that is true. The customer must be satisfied with the result, so far she is. I think she is bias towards the 2215B receiver because its hers and my 2230 has had so much money spent on it and consumed so much time, that she hates it anyway. Blind test required I feel.

Oh and I forgot to mention about the acetone for the pcb. I didn't want to use it in case I did damage the silk screen or wipe it off completely, but thanks for the clarification.

Here are my suggestions: for the unregulated voltage circuit with U05B (2.5A, 100V) diodes, replace with UF5405 (3A, 500V) fast, soft recovery diodes. For the regulated voltage circuit (H806, H807) with W06B (0.75A, 150V) diodes, replace with UF4005 (1A, 600V) fast, soft recovery diodes. You should also replace the H808 diode that supplies the lamps with a UF4005 diode. Note that both suggested replacement parts have a forward voltage drop of 1.7V to slightly lower the DC voltages closer to the original specs with today's AC mains voltages that are higher than when the units were originally made.

Thanks so very much for this Leestereo. Ill start hunting them down this evening. I don't think this is a valid point but you mention the 'unregulated power supply' with your previous post, does it matter I am on 230v, 50hz AC, or does it still go through the regulator to bring it down to the correct 'universal' voltages found in these receivers? I know its probably a dumb question, and I probably know the answer already, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.

For the two lots of diodes, was looking on mouser. Are these the correct ones to get?
625-UF5405-E3
625-UF4005-E3/73

Both are vishay products but I cannot see anything about them being 'soft recovery' type. I'm sorry for the multiple questions, I really know absolutely zero about diodes & semiconductors ect.

 

[bktheking]

The transformer is what would do the step down on the primary side-it's the side that handles the wall voltage, the regulator will always operate at a set voltage from the secondaries.

 

[pingu_turbo]

The transformer is what would do the step down on the primary side-it's the side that handles the wall voltage, the regulator will always operate at a set voltage from the secondaries.

Thanks BK, I suspected as much. I wasn't 100% sure if that was the case. :thmbsp:

 

[patfont]

Hi Pingu,
When you get to the part number on the Mouser web site then hit data sheet:

that is where you will see it:

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/uf5400-205351.pdf

 

[pingu_turbo]

Hi Pingu,
When you get to the part number on the Mouser web site then hit data sheet:

that is where you will see it:

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/uf5400-205351.pdf

I cannot believe it Pat, I even looked at that data sheet too! I must be really ill or stupid! :screwy:

 

[patfont]

I cannot believe it Pat, I even looked at that data sheet too! I must be really ill or stupid! :screwy:

Install 2 caps and call me in the morning.

 

[pingu_turbo]

Install 2 caps and call me in the morning.

Hehe thanks for that!
I wouldn't trust myself to even do that at the moment! Lol! :lmao:

 

[Leestereo]

I don't think this is a valid point but you mention the 'unregulated power supply' with your previous post, does it matter I am on 230v, 50hz AC, or does it still go through the regulator to bring it down to the correct 'universal' voltages found in these receivers? I know its probably a dumb question, and I probably know the answer already, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.

For the two lots of diodes, was looking on mouser. Are these the correct ones to get?
625-UF5405-E3
625-UF4005-E3/73

Both are vishay products but I cannot see anything about them being 'soft recovery' type. I'm sorry for the multiple questions, I really know absolutely zero about diodes & semiconductors ect.

As BK alluded to, the unregulated supply is just the voltage that is rectified from the power transformer secondaries to required voltages and is not subject to regulation by a circuit; it will vary as the mains AC increases or decreases. The regulated supply is rectified from the secondaries but is then "locked" to a specific value and is impervious to minor variations in mains AC voltage.

The 2 diodes you list are indeed the ones I suggest you use. The UF400X and UF540X series diodes are ultra fast soft recovery diodes (the data sheets don't always make it clear that they are "soft recovery" types). The two parameters, speed and soft recovery are often paired; the speed is not much of a concern for a 50 or 60Hz supply, its the soft recovery property that is advantageous. Its similar to 105°C caps: I'm not particularly concerned about the temperature rating per se, but rather the low ESR and ripple rating of these capacitors, they just happen to be also rated at 105°C.

No need to apologize for asking questions; I've been restoring audio gear for 17 years now and I still have questions and am still learning new things about this hobby.