Marantz 2230 restoring it from scratch

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by Shaggykjb, Mar 14, 2017.

  1. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    So I was lucky enought to go to an estate sale a few weekends back. Wasn't to excited about what was there. Clothes,books,kitchen stuff. I was about to leave when I noticed one of the "tables" that had stuff ontop of it was a speaker. Looked at the back and it was a JBL-l88! Followed the speaker wire to a stack of vinyl and underneath was a Marantz 2230. Tried to turn in on plugged in and nothing. So I spoke to the seller and got it and the speakers for $65 bucks. :naughty:

    So I've started rebuilding it from scratch. First I replaced the power cable due to multiple spots of electrical tape holding it together. One replaced and soldered in I was able to power up the unit. I grabbed a pair of bookshelf speakers and turned it on. It powered up but as soon as I selected main speaker button a horable hum came from both speakers. Very loud!.

    Turned it off, and it wouldn't turn on again...
    Tested the power switch, good.
    So with the following list from John_Bawn I made a Mouser purchase and started rebuilding.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    manual correction) Measure bias J757 to J759 and adjust at J765

    Main Filter Capacitors:
    63v/2200uf 661-ESMH800N682MA40S
    63v/2200uf 661-ESMH800N682MA40S
    80v/4700uf 661-EKMH101VRT103MB8
    (these are large deviations from the original uf size. I was leery but think it adds to the overall sound I'm hearing. Advice came from a source I trust on Audiokarma but can't remember which post right now)

    P150 AM Tuner Board
    C161 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C162 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C164 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C165 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C166 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C171 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C173 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C175 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C178 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C180 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C181 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C183 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD [screenprint reversed]
    C184 10v/100uf 647-UKL1C101KPDANA
    (relatively easy board. have to clip 4 wires and resolver. not required if worried about tuner work)

    P300 MPX Decoder Board
    C301 10v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C302 10v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C306 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C311 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C312 16v/220uf 647-UKL1V221KPD
    C319 35v/10uf 647-UKL1V100KDDANA
    C320 35v/10uf 647-UKL1V100KDDANA
    C321 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C322 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C324 20v/0.1uf 505-MKS2.1/63/10
    C331 35v/4.7uf 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
    C332 35v/4.7uf 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
    C333 25v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    C334 25v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    C335 25v/220uf 647-UKL1V221KPD
    C336 10v/33uf 647-UKL1C330KDDANA
    (more difficult to get at under the AM board. But if you have AM wires cut then might as well. not required if worried about tuner work)

    P400 Tone Amp Board:
    C401 50v/0.22uf Munsdorf EVO Oil
    C402 50v/0.22uf Munsdorf EVO Oil
    C403 25v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    C404 25v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    C405 35v/10uf 555-RFS35V100ME3#5
    C406 35v/10uf 555-RFS35V100ME3#5
    C407 25v/3.3uf 505-MKS23.3/50/10
    C408 25v/3.3uf 505-MKS23.3/50/10
    C409 35v/100uf 555-RFS35V101MH5#5
    C410 25v/3.3uf 505-MKS23.3/50/10
    C411 25v/3.3uf 505-MKS23.3/50/10
    C414 35v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    C415 35v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    H401 2sc1000 ECB 512-KSC1815YTA ECB
    H402 2sc1000 ECB 512-KSC1815YTA ECB
    H403 2sa841 ECB 512-KSA992FBU ECB
    H404 2sa841 ECB 512-KSA992FBU ECB
    H405 2sc1000 ECB 512-KSC1815YTA ECB
    H406 2sc1000 ECB 512-KSC1815YTA ECB
    H407 2sa841 ECB 512-KSA992FBU ECB
    H408 2sa841 ECB 512-KSA992FBU ECB
    (if C401/C402 are the nice brown capacitors do not replace. If they are green or other replace. You can use Panasonic to get less expensive. Lots of people have opinions on boutique film capacitors. The transistors aren't required but I always like replacing them while I'm in there. At 15 cents a piece it's cheap and easy insurance against future failure.)

    P500 FM Detector Board
    C503 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C508 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C509 35v/4.7uf 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
    C510 50v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    C511 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C514 16v/100uf 647-UKL1C101KPDANA
    (another optional board if you're concerned about tuner work but easy to access.)

    P550 Muting Control Board
    C554 16v/10uf 647-UKL1C100KDD1TD
    C559 35v/4.7uf 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
    (another optional board if you're concerned about tuner work but easy to access.)

    P700 Phono Board:
    C011 50v/220uf 647-TVX1H221MCD
    C703 6.3v/22uf 555-RFS10V220ME3#5
    C704 6.3v/22uf 555-RFS10V220ME3#5
    C713 50v/100uf 555-RFS50V101MI5#5
    H701 2sc1000 ecb 512-KSC1815YTA ecb
    H702 2sc1000 ecb 512-KSC1815YTA ecb
    H703 2sc1000 ecb 512-KSC1815YTA ecb
    H704 2sc1000 ecb 512-KSC1815YTA ecb
    H705 2sc458 bce 512-KSC1845FTA ecb
    H706 2sc458 bce 512-KSC1845FTA ecb
    H707 1S1212 512-1N4148
    H708 1S1212 512-1N4148
    H709 VD1212 512-1N4148 (x2 in series)
    (note the axial capacitor at C011. Not your normal radial cap but just as easy to install. More of the failure prone 2SC458's. And anytime you find a 1S1212 epoxy diode, looks like a blob of plastic, it should be replaced as a matter of course just like the 2SC458's. Follow the markings on the board and install the new diode with the cathode, line, matching the board. Same for replacing any VD1212 you find except that requires 2 new diodes soldered in series, meaning anode/cathode/anode/cathode. If you need further advice on this one I'm happy to help.)

    P750 Power Amp Board (x2):
    C751 50v/1uf 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    C752 50v/100uf 555-RFS50V101MI5#5
    C753 50v/10uf 555-RFS50V100MG3#5
    C754 50v/47uf 555-RFS50V470MH4#5
    C755 50v/47uf 555-RFS50V470MH4#5
    C757 50v/22uf 555-RFS50V330MH4#5
    C758 50v/50pf 80-C320C510J2G
    C759 50v/50pf 80-C320C510J2G
    H751 2SC1327 ECB 512-KSC1845FTA ECB
    H753 2SA371 ECB 512-KSC945CYTA ECB
    H754 2SA562 ECB 512-KSA733CYTA ECB
    H757 s3016r 512-1N4148
    R760 100K/Trim 652-3386F-1-104LF
    R765 470/Trim 652-3386F-1-471LF
    (biggest thing to remember her is you have 2 amp boards and need 2 of everything. Regular caps are easy. Ceramics at C758/C759 are optional but I think they help the sound. Transistors, diode and trimmers are optional depending on your comfort.)

    P800 Power Supply Board:
    C803 63v/470uf 647-UFG1J471MHM
    C804 50v/330uf 647-UFG1H331MHM
    C805 16v/470uf 647-UFG1C471MPM
    C806 50v/330uf 647-UFG1H331MHM
    C807 50v/3.3uf 505-MKS23.3/50/10
    H803 2sc1213 ECB 512-KSC2383YTA ECB
    H804 s1b-01-02 512-UF4005
    H805 s1b-01-02 512-UF4005
    H806 bz-140 512-1N4744A
    H807 wz-071 512-1N5236B
    R810 4.7K/Trim 652-3362R-1-472LF
    (power supply is quick and easy like the 2220. Basic e-caps. Transistor is optional and some opt for a heftier model but I think the 2383 works fine. I suggest replacing s1b-01-02 diodes with UF4005's whenever you can. They will improve response and super easy to do. Follow advice above about diodes and the cathode line marking. Most will not recommend replacing zener diodes so you can skip those and trimmer is optional)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    First Item to fix was P800 power board.

    Heres the old.
    IMG_20170312_193235.jpg

    Here is the new board as I built it.
    IMG_20170312_204558.jpg
    IMG_20170312_205727.jpg
    IMG_20170312_202210.jpg


    IMG_20170312_205554.jpg

    back in the case. (Sorry for the blur)
    IMG_20170313_072948.jpg


    Once soldered back in I realized by replacing the poteniometer..I have no idea what the voltage settings are currently. I'll need help to figure this out...:(

    Anyway I figured until I learn how to do that I'll just march on and replace the main caps with the recommended larger ones. I was leery to do so but was told its been done before.

    IMG_20170313_220613.jpg
    IMG_20170313_225013.jpg

    Here is the replacement.
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...vTNNvDrcF/%2buCZ3GVfwCmqGBrFZ/rEE9VW9mXmzNPmY

    Even with the new caps it doesn't turn on yet..so any ideas?
     
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  2. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,804
    Location:
    Burleson, TX
    This receiver is one of my favorites. Do you have the service manual? To set the power supply voltage, test DC voltage with a DMM between chassis and J808. Adjust trimmer R810 to 35.6VDC. I'll bet that loud hum is a bad filter cap. If you are replacing that next, you may eliminate it. For future reference, most of the experts (that doesn't include me :D) recommend a higher temp rated series of electrolytic capacitors in power supplies since they generally get the warmest. In Nichicon, lots of people use PW series caps. I have rebuilt a 2230 with all Nichicon Fine Gold and it works fine, though. But if I were doing it again, I would use PW (in the power supply). It becomes more important as power goes up and temps with it.
    Steve
     
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  3. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    Thanks for the good info Steven! Good to see another Texan on this forum. I do have the service manual from online. I'll test for DC on J808 tonight after work. Will i still get DC if it doesn't power up when the power button is pushed?
     
  4. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,804
    Location:
    Burleson, TX
    Hmmmm. If you're getting nothing to power up when you hit the power button, you likely won't get that DC. Are you getting no signs of life? Have you checked the fuse?
     
  5. bryans12v

    bryans12v Marantz Junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,170
    Location:
    Hudson Valley, NY
    Don't forget to check the fuse.

    You'll also want to build yourself
    a dim bulb setup if you don't already one.
     
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  6. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,804
    Location:
    Burleson, TX
    Shaggykjb likes this.
  7. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,804
    Location:
    Burleson, TX
    Just reread your first post and I missed the part that said you had a loud hum and then nothing. Not good. If you're lucky, it's a blown fuse. If that's the case, DO NOT power back up without a DBT. If you are not lucky, you probably blew some output transistors as well as possibly much more.
     
  8. disisme

    disisme AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    267
    Location:
    Sault Ste Marie Ont
    $65 is a steal, your going to enjoy it when you get it all tuned up. Definately take Steve's advice and put together a DBT. I'm not sure if the 2230 is the same as my 2245 but I know my 2245 is quite easy to trouble shoot with some help from here.
     
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  9. disisme

    disisme AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    267
    Location:
    Sault Ste Marie Ont
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  10. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    Can you tell me where the fuses are? I don't seem them.
     
  11. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    Now that you mentioned output transistors. The right side has been replaced before.

    1489546349577375837369.jpg
     
  12. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,804
    Location:
    Burleson, TX
    I'm talking about the main fuse on the back panel near the switched and unswitched outlets.
     
  13. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    Found it...Yes, I'd say I blew a fuse.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    Replacement model fuse looks like 3AG 2-1/2A 250v
    don't have any on hand and Walmart wants 12 dollars for 1. I'll order a pack and get back at it hopefully in the next few days.

    Thanks for all ya'lls help. I still plan on replacing the caps on the power amp boards so i'm not done yet.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017
  15. disisme

    disisme AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    267
    Location:
    Sault Ste Marie Ont
    I had a fuse blown and after plugging into DBT found I still had an issue, I pulled output transistors and DBT went dim which was a good thing , tested output transistors and found one bad.
     
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  16. bryans12v

    bryans12v Marantz Junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,170
    Location:
    Hudson Valley, NY
    I wouldn't replace any more caps until you figure out what is shorted and making the fuse blow. It's never cap related but more likely a shorted semiconductor.

    The fuse blown is not the fix rather than a clue telling you there's another BIG problem somewhere. Pull the outputs and test them.
     
  17. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    So consenses is I shouldn't power on with a new fuse. Pull the output transistors and test them. Should I just pickup those semi -on replacements I keep hearing about from other posts? Or is the sound way different from the stock? Keep in mind one side already isn't the stock Hitachi's.

    I'm gonna rebuild those boards anyways so I'll post the buildup tonight.

    Here is the replacement main cap installed. 10,000uf 100V same 40mm size as original.

    IMG_20170315_071208.jpg IMG_20170315_071217.jpg IMG_20170315_071221.jpg
     
  18. bryans12v

    bryans12v Marantz Junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,170
    Location:
    Hudson Valley, NY
    I never ever power a unit on for the first time or after replacing parts without a dim bulb tester. That should be step one before replacing anymore parts.

    Additionally fixing known issues FIRST is the smart way to go about it before replacing maintenance parts. You could be creating more problems and potentially damaging new replacement parts unless unless you are 100% certain where your short circuit is coming from.

    I would stop replacing caps, focus your time on the short by testing the outputs or powering up, through a DBT, with the outputs removed to see if it passes.

    If it does, replace and proceed.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
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  19. Shaggykjb

    Shaggykjb Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    TX
    Ok, DBT built..
    New fuse.
    plugged in the 2230, and flipped on the DBT. red light shows power on the BDT. No lights on the reciever. No bright Bulb. Its a 100W
    IMG_20170315_231541.jpg IMG_20170315_185826.jpg IMG_20170315_191529.jpg IMG_20170315_191532.jpg
     
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  20. Richs_Trains

    Richs_Trains AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    605
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Can't really see how you have that dbt wired, did you try something you know works in the dbt to verify that it is actually providing power?
     

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