Marantz 2230 Tuning cord un-spun, help requested

ohrico

New Member
Hey there folks. I appreciate the apparent sea of knowledge here at audiokarma, and I'm hoping someone out there can help me. A little background:

I have a Marantz 2230, have had it for a decade or so, and with the exception of many lights being out, and a bit of dirt / noise in the front dials, it was in generally good shape and usable that whole time.

Well… recently I decided to get off my ass and replace the bulbs ( all stereo dial bulbs, dial pointer bulb, signal strength bulb and all but 2 of the selector bulbs — almost every bulb was out this whole time).​

Of course the dial bulbs were cake, but before I realized I could easily replace the signal bulbs from right behind them, I had loosened the (part connecting to the) front right pulley, and removed the black horizontal support bar above the tuning wheel and string, and I inadvertently un-spun my tuning string. — I also replaced the meter bulbs. sigh.

The front is beginning to look good, but before I go soldering any of the selector lights, or replacing the dial indicator light — I need to suss how to get this tuning string back on properly. I can't seem to find a manual describing it's starting position / setup, so to speak — just people talking about voltages and such. I'm so… not even there yet. I've even tried searching for replacement of the cord. No go.

Now, I do have a fairly logical mind, and I've seen many videos of my model being worked on. I've tried to wind the string as it looks to be wound in the images I've seen, but it never seems to work — it gets stuck at a certain point, or doesn't seem to be moving with the dial properly or at all. I figured it had something to do with the dial starting point?​

So! I was wondering if there is a certain and proper way to do this — a diagram, order, or method, as if it's a new cord being installed? Any help will be appreciated. (I'm sure I'll have more questions as I proceed with restoration.)

As a side-note, I can reach in and manually turn the vertical wheel in the center the dial connects to, and the stations come in fine.
Thanks so much, and sorry for the long question. I figured the more details, the better. A couple images attached with current status. :/

View media item 17592View media item 17591


 
Here is a clear scan of the 2230 dial string route:
2230 dial stringing.jpg

There are two different places I would start, and it depends on if you are putting the original back on, or using a new string. Or if the original string has been unhooked at its ends.

If the original string is still there, and still hooked up, then find where the tuning string has a U-shaped bend formed in it. That goes through the pulley and down to hook on the spring:

2230 bend in string for pulley spring.jpg 2230 string looped through pulley spring.jpg


Then make the wrap around the pulley that goes to the left side of the receiver (when facing the front). It will go to the gyro pulley. Wrap the string around it next.

I could not view your pictures. Did you take the gyro loose at the top, allowing the string to come off? If so you may need to reassemble the gyro wheel first, then unhook the two ends of the string, and then install as if new.If installing a new string then I always start with wrapping around the gyro.

This is a first stab at assisting with this because I'm not clear on how far the 2230 was taken apart, or if the original string has been unhooked. Post pictures again to show your progress.
 
Good advise, Randy!
When I have to restring, I remove the dial pointer from the string, then I put the new cord on just like the old (use a diagram if the old cord is missing or use the old cord to pull the new one in if its still there).
Either way, start with the spring in the drum disconnected from the cord. Put the new cord on so there is no slack when you connect the ends together, then use a spring hook to re-attach the spring to the cord.
Run the tuning from end to end a few times until the spring tensions the cord properly.

After replacing ten or so you will actually get pretty good at it.
Of course, sometimes the diagram in the service manual is wrong.

Tom
 
Wow, that diagram is awesome. I couldn't find it online elsewhere! Looks like I was pretty close at my guessing before, just hadn't got the winding direction quite right.
I'll try again later on today.
  • runningdog / randy: not sure why you couldn't see the images; but :: what I did that loosened the cord I believe was when I loosened the right pully arm (when facing front) that is attached just above the tuning dial.trying to suss
  • catrafter / Tom: I started each time by looping the spring first with the cord. I will try doing it last.
One more question before I try that tonight:
  • What about real alignment? That is, the position of the actual tuning dial that has the spring on it vs what position this cord should be in? Does that make sense?
Thank you thank you!

Here is a clear scan of the 2230 dial string route:
View attachment 1388910

There are two different places I would start, and it depends on if you are putting the original back on, or using a new string. Or if the original string has been unhooked at its ends.

If the original string is still there, and still hooked up, then find where the tuning string has a U-shaped bend formed in it. That goes through the pulley and down to hook on the spring:

View attachment 1388911 View attachment 1388912


Then make the wrap around the pulley that goes to the left side of the receiver (when facing the front). It will go to the gyro pulley. Wrap the string around it next.

I could not view your pictures. Did you take the gyro loose at the top, allowing the string to come off? If so you may need to reassemble the gyro wheel first, then unhook the two ends of the string, and then install as if new.If installing a new string then I always start with wrapping around the gyro.

This is a first stab at assisting with this because I'm not clear on how far the 2230 was taken apart, or if the original string has been unhooked. Post pictures again to show your progress.
 
Just for future reference, one way to make restringing a lot easier is to use masking tape to tape the string around the big pulley on the tuning cap BEFORE letting the string loose. It's pretty easy to get it all restrung if the string on that large pulley hasn't moved.
 
What about real alignment? That is, the position of the actual tuning dial that has the spring on it vs what position this cord should be in? Does that make sense?

Finding the place on the original string where it loops through spring means that the relationship of the string position on the pulley, and the dial pointer position on the string, will be somewhere near where it was originally.

And what Tom said about the removing the dial pointer is so important. Gently and carefully remove the dial pointer from the string and get it somewhere safe. Then you don't have to worry about it as much while you are getting the string back in place.
 
Glad I stumbled upon this thread. This happened to me yesterday (uncorded) while changing the bulbs in my 2015. One of my least favorite jobs. I was able to reuse the original string after many many failed attemps HA!
20201012_211812.jpg
 
Get all your soldering done in that area before restringing the dial cord . My soldering iron loves dial cord ! Yours will too !

When reworking a stereo indicator light, I used strips of aluminum Foil around the dial cord to shield it from my soldering iron. Dial cords love soldering irons like ducks love water.
 
Awesome help offered here. It took me a week to trial and error (non-Marantz) mine after it started slipping, and subsequently broke while I was trying [incorrectly] to tighten it. I started from zero, wound, unwound, and wound again till I figured it out - many hours invested, some cursing too. I shoulda come here for advice.
 
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