Marantz 2238: Flickering lamps when played loud

Hi,

My 2238 restoration is finally complete. I've done a complete recap and replaced most of the diodes on the P800 power supply board. I'm using the original 10,000uF / 50V value for the new power supply caps. I also stayed with the original values of the caps on the P800 board, only increasing their voltages.

Basically, the lamps flicker and dim out slightly and dance along with the music - most noticeably when the amp is pushed hard and short bursts of power are called for. In other words, it seems like a lack of capacitance in the power supply or a sag in the rectification or something like that, even though these are just lamps we're talking about. It's like all the power is being used by the amp and the lamps are losing out because of it.

They are all brand new 8V/200mA incandescent fuse lamps (5 behind the dial and 1 behind each meter). I'm pretty sure the unit did this prior to the restoration though, so I'm not entirely sure whether or not this is just normal for the 2238. It's rather subtle but it's annoying enough to be noticeable. I checked all the wires to make sure they weren't broken or cracked at the posts and all of the connections were fine. Could this situation have something to do with a specific capacitor on the P800 board that feeds the lamp circuit that might benefit from an increase in capacitance?

I've seen posts here saying the flickering could have to do with a bad power switch, but the effect only happens to my unit at high volume levels. The only other thought I had, has to do with what I've seen in some of the 22xx series Marantz restorations online. Essentially, some of these receivers have very small electrolytic capacitors connected across the leads of the meters. I don't quite understand how this could possibly affect the lamps, but it's certainly something that I've been curious about, as the effect is most noticeable on the meter backlighting.

Would replacing the incandescents with warm white LED replacements be a possible solution, since they draw far less current / use less power?

What about a power supply bypass? Maybe smaller film caps in parallel with the main p.s. electrolytics could help to speed things up (i.e. more instantaneous charging)?

Thanks!

Brian
 
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<I'm using the original 10,000uF / 50V value for the new power supply caps.>

You answered your own question. At higher volume levels, old caps can draw more current "to the beat of the music" which translates to a secondary-side flicker. I'll be restoring a 2238 soon and see it I get lamp flicker at high volumes after restoration. I will be replacing all ecaps as all are over 40-years old and shot.
 
<I'm using the original 10,000uF / 50V value for the new power supply caps.>

You answered your own question. At higher volume levels, old caps can draw more current "to the beat of the music" which translates to a secondary-side flicker. I'll be restoring a 2238 soon and see it I get lamp flicker at high volumes after restoration. I will be replacing all ecaps as all are over 40-years old and shot.

I'm sorry. I think you misread my statement. I recapped the entire unit, including the main power supply capacitors. I said, "I'm using the original 10,000uF / 50V value for the new power supply caps." In other words, the caps are brand new. I simply didn't choose to go with an increase in capacitance or voltage, which is something many people choose to do.
 
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Could this situation have something to do with a specific capacitor on the P800 board that feeds the lamp circuit that might benefit from an increase in capacitance?
I had that problem with a sansui 9090, what I did put a 25v 220uf, replacing a little cap that sometimes is located on the signals meter, In addition I've seen some people putting a 1n4001 on the cable that feeds the lamp circuit. But I'm not sure about that.
 
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I had that problem with a sansui 9090, what I did put a 25v 220uf, replacing a little cap that sometimes is located on the signals meter, In addition I've seen some people putting a 1n4001 on the cable that feeds the lamp circuit. But I'm not sure about that.

And it worked? I have a bunch of extra caps lying around from the restoration, since I always order a few more than I need with every purchase. It sounds like an interesting idea but I don't have the knowledge to figure out specific values. Maybe someone with a better understanding of this stuff will be generous enough to chime in and help me figure out the specifics.

Thanks for your input!
 
And it worked? I have a bunch of extra caps lying around from the restoration, since I always order a few more than I need with every purchase. It sounds like an interesting idea but I don't have the knowledge to figure out specific values. Maybe someone with a better understanding of this stuff will be generous enough to chime in and help me figure out the specifics.

Thanks for your input!
It did for me, I went from 47uf to 220, the marantz use what? 100uf? maybe it could worth a try, won't hurt anything I'm sure.

Tomorrow I'll check the schematics and may I can come up with a better response
 
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It did for me, I went from 47uf to 220, the marantz use what? 100uf? maybe it could worth a try, won't hurt anything I'm sure.

I think this may be the part where I should consult an expert. It looks like C809 (a 1000uF / 35V electrolytic capacitor) plays a role here, but anything beyond that would simply be a guess on my part.
 
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I had the same problem on a 2235 turns out the unit was vibrating when the volume was up those are also 40 year old clips
 
total normal. I forget how to draw out the math on the whiteboard, but multi winding transformers 'borrow' from each winding in times of stress due to emf interference. conversely, should you replace those with parts express warm white LED lights that draw 1/10th the current, you actually make available slightly more current to the amp!

the cost is about the same, I know you dont wanna hear this NOW since you paid $1 per.

ps: if you ever check them out, resist the urge to get cool blue, the marantz mask uses blue where blue is required so warm white gits it done. I recall a 2330 I did last year where the mask also had clear colors in it so the warm white was a wonderful contrast as designed, vs all blue that some use.
 
I'm sorry. I think you misread my statement. I recapped the entire unit, including the main power supply capacitors. I said, "I'm using the original 10,000uF / 50V value for the new power supply caps." In other words, the caps are brand new. I simply didn't choose to go with an increase in capacitance or voltage, which is something many people choose to do.
Sorry, I did mis-read your statement.
 
Is your power switch replaced?

Not yet. It works pretty good right now but I can feel it's getting a bit 'sticky.' I've seen the blue plastic replacement power switch from irebuildmarantz.com and on ebay but it would require a new aluminum button in order to make it work. Some of the ones on ebay include the button but I'm not sure whether or not it will look just like the original . I would prefer to use a NOS replacement if at all possible. The part # listed on my switch is TV-3 JH5. Any ideas?
 
I had the same problem on a 2235 turns out the unit was vibrating when the volume was up those are also 40 year old clips

If you're referring to my 2238, I have replaced every single electrolytic cap in the unit. The Nichicon "Gold Tune" 10,000uF / 50V power supply caps are brand new.
 
total normal. I forget how to draw out the math on the whiteboard, but multi winding transformers 'borrow' from each winding in times of stress due to emf interference. conversely, should you replace those with parts express warm white LED lights that draw 1/10th the current, you actually make available slightly more current to the amp!

the cost is about the same, I know you dont wanna hear this NOW since you paid $1 per.

ps: if you ever check them out, resist the urge to get cool blue, the marantz mask uses blue where blue is required so warm white gits it done. I recall a 2330 I did last year where the mask also had clear colors in it so the warm white was a wonderful contrast as designed, vs all blue that some use.

I think I'm gonna purchase a set of the warm white LED lamps from Parts Express. Everyone seems to love them!
 
I had to replace the power switch on my 2270 and used one of those blue switches. The caps you see on ebay fit and look like the oem, main difference is that the new switch has a 3mm shaft.
 
I had to replace the power switch on my 2270 and used one of those blue switches. The caps you see on ebay fit and look like the oem, main difference is that the new switch has a 3mm shaft.

What do you think about this switch I found on ebay?

Vintage Receiver Power Switch / Snap Switch - Marantz:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Receiver-Power-Switch-Snap-Switch-Marantz/301804976333?

The model # is slightly different, but otherwise it looks like a perfect match!!! I could also reuse my original button cap.
 
Didn't realize you had a blade type switch, thought the shaft was square. I don't see why it wouldn't work if it fits and the seller claims it will fit Marantz.
 
Didn't realize you had a blade type switch, thought the shaft was square. I don't see why it wouldn't work if it fits and the seller claims it will fit Marantz.

Yeah, I've got the blade type and the price is right. Also, he's got 100% positive feedback. I think I'll get one and hold onto it just in case mine were to lock up and/or fail at some point.
 
Totally normal, every one of the smaller marantz receivers I've had do the light dimming thing. Even my 2252 in the garage does it if I get dB happy. A long time ago I replaced the main caps in a 2240 with much bigger ones, and it stopped the light dimming. It also made a big difference in the bass output. My marantz 4400 will actually dim the lights on the ceiling to the bass before the dial dims. At that point my speakers are starting to not like that much power anyways, never seen the 4400’s dial dim.
 
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