Marantz 2238B uses up the 2A fuse for the lamps on a regular basis.

Blue Shadow

Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
Need to check the bulbs to verify, spec'd at 200mA, might be the 250mA which might cause the problem and the 300mA will for sure.

Curious if the fuse can be upped to 2.5A without damaging the power supply if need be.

Also know that there is a source for the 200mA bulbs. dgwojo. Might need to place another order.
 
Yes the LED option would drop the current. total would be the mA per LED plus whatever the resistor uses. It is one thing to consider. But since the Meters lit by LEDs seem to have hot spots, maybe just do the dial and then have the meter continue to be the lamps.
 
It seems that the receivers that I put LED’s in have hot spots when I photograph them, but not much when you see them live. I’m not sure why LED hot spots show up so much in photography, it just never has looked like a problem when I see them in my listening room.
 
it just never has looked like a problem when I see them in my listening room.
Except they may be bright enough to keep you awake at night. I did LEDs in a 2240 recently and it looked great in the sunlight but a bit bright in the subdued lighting of the living room at night. This one has only the numbers light instead of the entire dial so it might not be so bad. I'll have to see what I have in the way of bulbs/leds for it as all but the stereo lamp are out. The fuse broke when removed so that might have been bad, too.
 
It seems that the receivers that I put LED’s in have hot spots when I photograph them, but not much when you see them live. I’m not sure why LED hot spots show up so much in photography, it just never has looked like a problem when I see them in my listening room.

I'd guess because the LED's are brighter than the original lamps and there's more of an exposure discrepancy between them and the ambient light. In other words, the LED's go past proper exposure while the camera is exposing correctly for the overall unit/environment. If you exposed for the LEDs the rest of the exposure would be too dark. Going to guess there's no vellum between the LEDs and the meters like there is(?) between the LEDs and the dial, as well.

I notice the same thing when I take a phone snapshot for the What Are You Listening to Now thread. The strobe light on the TT gets overexposed because the phone exposes for the overall scene.

I'd guess the reason you don't SEE the hot spot is our eyes have a wider dynamic range than digital cameras. We see the LED as bright, but our eyes see the dark end lighter than a camera does.

If you were going to photograph your receiver and wanted to mitigate or possibly totally get rid of the hot spots you would:
• Tripod your camera
• Find the correct exposure for the LED via the shutter speed.*
• Use flash/es to light the rest of the scene.

*You would want an aperture small enough (size not #) to use a slower shutter speed. By slower I mean not too fast for your flash. On my camera it would have to be slower than 1/160th of a second.

Innervisions.JPG
 
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I'd guess because the LED's are brighter than the original lamps and there's more of an exposure discrepancy between them and the ambient light. In other words, the LED's go past proper exposure while the camera is exposing correctly for the overall unit/environment. If you exposed for the LEDs the rest of the exposure would be too dark. Going to guess there's no vellum between the LEDs and the meters like there is(?) between the LEDs and the dial, as well.

I notice the same thing when I take a phone snapshot for the What Are You Listening to Now thread. The strobe light on the TT gets overexposed because the phone exposes for the overall scene.

I'd guess the reason you don't SEE the hot spot is our eyes have a wider dynamic range than digital cameras. We see the LED as bright, but our eyes see the dark end lighter than a camera does.

If you were going to photograph your receiver and wanted to mitigate or possibly totally get rid of the hot spots you would:
• Tripod your camera
• Find the correct exposure for the LED via the shutter speed.*
• Use flash/es to light the rest of the scene.

*You would want an aperture small enough (size not #) to use a slower shutter speed. By slower I mean not too fast for your flash. On my camera it would have to be slower than 1/160th of a second.

View attachment 1457752
I think you are exactly right about the exposure. I am an amateur photographer, but have never really tried to get the right exposure overall. I just snap pics with my iPhone. Another way to get a good exposure would be to take multiple exposures In HDR mode where progressively higher exposures are combined to make an “ideal” image. Most Marantz receivers do have velum diffusers for dial and meters. But that brightness discrepancy overcomes the diffuser in simple photography. But like I said - when I look with the naked eye, The hotspots are not noticeable.
 
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