Kevbo

Member
I just posted a thread about a Stereo Light issues, but wanted to create a separate thread since this is slightly different. I replaced the factory lights in my Marantz 2240B receiver this past weekend with LEDs, every single light, including the tuning needle. Well, trying to get the front panel out just to solder, I ended up having to remove the tuning string in the front and tuck it away. I never removed it from the tuning wheel on the right (wrapped around three times). After hours of working to get the string back on, I may have lost some tension. The needle slows down to a stop in the middle, but with enough turns, it will eventually travel to the other side. I noticed the track it moves on was slightly bowed (concave, so it gets tight in the middle of the tuning meter). Anyway, I am now off quite a few frequencies numbers when tuned in to a station.

My needle housing is glued (or rosin, maybe) to the string, and that is the only thing I can think of to try and remove to slide the need to the proper spot on the meter to have a more accurate reading for tuning. Any suggestions on how, or if I should even attempt to try and "re-tune" my needle? Thanks!
 
Hi, Barney. And thanks for replying. I do have the manual and had that out when working. Both the manual and the schematics. I'm almost 95% sure the metal track the needle housing slides on was bowed prior to my owning the unit. I am assuming that because when I lift up on the metal track to "remove" the bow, the metal is quite sturdy. Definitely not done by me. But when I let go, the track bows back down. Again, it's ever so slight. I did not remove the face plate to change the bulbs because I would've never been able to solder them in. The tube lights I probably could have changed, but not the soldered indicator lights. I did find this in the forum and wondered if it could work http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-align-tuner-needle.480065/

However, with the top of the unit off, when I tune all the way to the left, you can clearly see the needle jump up at the end because the shrink tubing holding the string ends hasn't quite hit the left-side pulley yet. I know I can't physically move the needle on the string due to it being "glued" on there, but I also don't know how I got the extra slack. To better picture it, when I tune all the way to the right, the needle stops at the 107 line. It can't reach 108. I can always take pictures or video and upload to YouTube if that ever helps.

Thanks again, Barney. And thanks for the welcome. Looking forward to using this site.

Kevin
 
I would just restring with new and go by the drawing. My guess is the way you put the string back onto the tuning wheel is wrong. If I need to mess with that area, I pull the wheel/string off the shaft and secure the string down. Don't move the capacitor shaft, I move it all one way or the other first.

Barney
 
Barney, do you know a good place I may purchase a tuner string? I was looking online but couldn't find much. Wasn't sure if you knew of a website offhand to purchase a new tuner string. Thanks, Barney.

Kevin
 
Thank you. How did you loosen the glue originally in the string? I fear heat of any kind would break the string that is currently on (believing it's the original string).
 
On the Kennys it's pretty rubbery - just pulled it off.

I do have a 2215B that had a sticky spot on the track - assume yours is similar. I sprayed some silicone lube on my finger and smeared the track with it. Has worked fine since.
 
I use stranded fishing line for dial cord. It is strong has worked well on a number of radios and tuners, most recently a Fisher KM-60.
 
Barney, do you know a good place I may purchase a tuner string? I was looking online but couldn't find much. Wasn't sure if you knew of a website offhand to purchase a new tuner string. Thanks, Barney.

Kevin

I've have a spool bought years and years ago at an auction, so have not needed to look recently. Sorry but others have suggested good options.


Barney
 
So this Christmas vacation I am on, I decided to try and remove the goop around the string. As I was removing it, it appeared to be rosin. I was able to remove it all and reposition the needle. The way the string gets threaded through the notches on the needle, it was actually pretty secure as is, but I did end up putting some rosin back on. I used to tinker around with a violin, so I had a small block of rosin here at my house. I chipped some into a metal dish and held it a few inches above a candle, and it melted within 30 seconds. The only thing I would have done differently is that I used a Q-tip to dip into the rosin and apply. The Q-tip absorbed the rosin nicely to apply, but it dries insanely quick, so I ended up pulling some cotton fibers off onto the string. I was able to remove the ones that protruded away from the string, and it has adhered nicely to the string. So that is a done deal now. Thanks, everyone!
 
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