Marantz 2245 has no sound

disisme

disisme

Active Member
Could use some help and guidance. My Marantz 2245 quit on me. This is exactly what happened, I turned the power button on to the Marantz, started the cd player, slowly turned sound up on Marantz, music played for 10 seconds and then no music playing, the cd player was still showing music was playing. I tried FM and iphone inputs and nothing. I don't have headphones for the big jack on Marantz to test that way. I disconnected one speaker and hooked the wires to a totally different speaker and no sound. Also I use to hear a click when I first turned on Marantz unit, I don't hear anything now.
Can you guys give me a hand as to what to do next?
Thanks

rear hookup


present button selection



top view














this board doesn't look so good particularly 566
 
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Sounds like your relay is stuck in protection mode. It could be a bad relay or it could be out of whack parameters in the power amps. I believe the first thing to do is test it for a short with a Dim Bulb Tester, and the next thing is check the DC Offset and idle current settings on both power amps. If they get too far out of spec (usually from failed components) the relay will stay in protection mode. I'm a relative noob, so hopefully someone will chime in if I'm on the wrong track.
Steve
 
Sounds like relay to me as well but on the other hand it could be fine and just doing what it is supposed to do an protect the unit.
 
I'd bet on a blown output transistor, the diamond shaped guys screwed onto the black finned heatsinks inside.. Look up the thread in the sticky section of the DIY sub-forum on how to test transistors.
 
I found a guy in town that is supposedly suppose to know his stuff with these Gems, anyone have an idea what kind of cost I should expect for this kind of fix? I'm thinking if cost isn't too bad I may also look into recapping, also if anyone can say what I should expect to pay for the recap job?
Thanks
 
You check all the fuses?

A relay not clicking not likely the relay its self. Either an issue with the circuit that drives it, or something is wrong with the power amp or power supply.

A full recap/restoration would probably be around 400-500, but a shop may charge a lot more or not want to do that kind of work.
 
Raccoon1400 said:
You check all the fuses?

A relay not clicking not likely the relay its self. Either an issue with the circuit that drives it, or something is wrong with the power amp or power supply.

A full recap/restoration would probably be around 400-500, but a shop may charge a lot more or not want to do that kind of work.
Click to expand...
I only saw the one main fuse in the back and it was good, powers on ok just no click or sound.
 
There are 4 fuses in your "top view" picture right above the relay, on a plate mounted to the right channel heatsink.
 
I just dropped it off to an older gentleman , he charges $25 to look at it and give a repair estimate, I did ask him what it would cost to recap it and he just said lots and most people wouldn't want to pay that much, this was not encouraging at all.
He mentioned this may or may not be an expensive repair but will let me know, hopefully he's honest enough.
He also asked if any bulbs were burnt out and I said yes the right side bulb , he had said a bulb being burnt out could cause an issue to not allow the click as well ( fingers crossed) Would this sound reasonable?
As for the 4 fuses , I'm not familar with the components but would the 4 fuses happen to be connected to the red green yellow yelow wires? I honestly didn't see any fuses.
Question though if a fuse is blown and the Guy is honest enough to simply replace it, wouldn't the fuse blow for some particular reason?
 
disisme said:
He also asked if any bulbs were burnt out and I said yes the right side bulb , he had said a bulb being burnt out could cause an issue to not allow the click as well ( fingers crossed) Would this sound reasonable?
Click to expand...
A burnt bulb would not cause any issues, at least not in this unit. There are a few units where the current needs to flow through a bulb to get to the rest of the circuit, but that is not the case here.

Likely yes, if one of those fuses was blown there could be a reason that needs to be addressed.
 
Frist, I'm no electronic expert and do your own research. Post #4 is very good advise by rBuckner.

I've started working on a 2245 that the relay will not latch. I bought it to repair (as a hobby) so I do not know the history. On mine the pre amp works when you power it up.

Then I found that the L side output transistors were both blown along with the R782 (smoked on the L board). That's were I am now waiting on parts. You could remove the output transistors and check them first. I'd only take one out at a time and have picture of how they are oriented. Be sure to have the power off and the AC unplugged before you mess around. If they are blown, they will likely read no resistance between E and B, E and C, C and B and for both polarities. At least that is how mine read. The PO must have shorted the L channel somehow.

My next step is the build a dim bulb tester to use when I try powering up with new parts.

I do not find but one fuse in my 2245. Mine is an early one with the date Dec 6, 1972 stamped on it.
The fuses must have been added later or I just can't find them.
 
I have had several 2245's and none were wired with that board. I know in some other Marantz models, an extra row of fuses indicates an international model.
 
Steven Tate said:
I have had several 2245's and none were wired with that board. I know in some other Marantz models, an extra row of fuses indicates an international model.
Click to expand...
Yes,this is correct. I made a sketch of what each is for if it's needed.
 
As I 've been sitting around wondering what is going on with my Marantz, I decided to take a look at the pics I took before dropping off the unit, where the red arrow points, the solder joint look suspicious?


 
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Hard to tell from the photo. If there is any question, reflow the solder, or if some of the wire strands seem broken, remove it, cut off end and resolder.
 
The 500 board is part of the FM section. You should redo the connection, but it not likely related to your relay problem. The speaker protection relay is controlled by one circuit that has a 3 to 5 sec delay and another set of circuits that open the relay should either the L or R amp failed to a DC output. This is to protect your speakers. The common failure, that I found online, is the C807 which is the Capacitor in the RC time delay circuit fails. If not the delay circuit it is likely a failure in the amp cards or output transistors. I followed the 2245 service manual instructions and first checked the DC voltage at the 800 board. This was OK on mine. Then I checked the DC offset. R channel was good, but the L amp was putting out 39 vdc. The relay was working correctly and not latching in. My L channel output transistors were both shorted internally. Had the DC offset been good on both channels then the problem would likely be on the 800 board, perhaps a transistor or capacitor.

Hopefully, it just the C807 capacitor or the relay itself on yours.
 
Got the results back from tech, left side Amp is pooched. Right side apparently was already worked on .
Question, is the right side Amp the same as the Left side Amp?
Also is the 2245 Model the only parts I can use?
Sorry for this Rookie question but what would the main Left Amp be called?
 
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