Marantz 2245 has no sound

[disisme]

Thanks I had also read that the soldering tips should not be filed. I'm tried to dip the tip into solder flux and get the solder to stick but it just doesn't want to cooperate.

 

[KutzlerTrans]

Are you saying that it is not sticking to the board??

Clean the board with rubbing alc first. Use thin .031 solder. Kester 44. 44/66

Its not going to stick to your soldering tip! At least, not very good.
Just hold the tip up against the copper track and leg of your part.
Then put the solder up against the iron and leg your soldering. One thousand two, and your done.
Make sure to cut the extra off of the legs( Before) soldering. Otherwise your heat is getting sucked into the extra metal of the lead instead of the joint.

 

[disisme]

Are you saying that it is not sticking to the board??

Clean the board with rubbing alc first. Use thin .031 solder. Kester 44. 44/66

Its not going to stick to your soldering tip! At least, not very good.
Just hold the tip up against the copper track and leg of your part.
Then put the solder up against the iron and leg your soldering. One thousand two, and your done.
Make sure to cut the extra off of the legs( Before) soldering. Otherwise your heat is getting sucked into the extra metal of the lead instead of the joint.

No trying to tin the new solder iron tip.

 

[KutzlerTrans]

10-4
The thing is probably like mine. Chrome or something. It does not stick too good.
Spin it on the lathe and use some 80 grit paper and file on it just kidding!!

 

[disisme]

Funny thing is, its a pretty good adjustable solder iron from The Source.

 

[disisme]

I think I may have to break down and buy a good soldering station like Steve suggested , Hakko 888D and or take a look in the DIY section for suggestions. After spending $60 on a roll of solder I would think a good solder station would be next.

 

[rBuckner]

...
Make sure to cut the extra off of the legs( Before) soldering. Otherwise your heat is getting sucked into the extra metal of the lead instead of the joint.

John, you're my buddy but I have to disagree. I was taught early on to NOT do this. It's too easy to either get it too short or to make a nice solder donut ring around the lead and not wick onto the lead. If heat is getting sunk off during the soldering of a large component it's usually the other end, not the extra lead, that is the principle heat sucker-outer.

 

[KutzlerTrans]

Your judgement has always been sound and i respect your advice Maybe its the heat setting that i am using, because i get a much quicker meltdown on the thicker (diode legs) if i cut some off.
I usually have to cut them again after soldering. Most of the time, if there is a lot of parts that are being installed into the board, the legs get in the way of another part, so i snip them after giving them a little bend to keep the part from falling out.

No wonder why my stuff doesn't work after i'm done.

I was under the impression that d isis guy (sorry, couldn't let that pass) was having a problem getting solder to stick to the board so i figured i would lay it on thick... bad advice, that is.

The question i have been wondering about is at what point does heat ruin a cap.?

I have felt the heat burn my fingertips a few times holding a little cap like a 25v/10uf in place while soldering.

 

[disisme]

Actually when I changed the two resistors I did eventually get the solder to flow ok, the issue I was/am having is getting the solder iron tip to be tinned as I've been told to heat the tip up, melt the solder onto tip, clean off and repeat until the tip is nicely tinned. SteveTate says he doesn't have to tin his solder tip on the Hakko and I have since ordered a Hakko.
Ok so leave legs long and cut after soldering