Marantz 2265: Partial restoration. Distortion on left side. *Resolved

Aaron99

Active Member
I have a 2265 that has been sitting in the stack waiting its turn. I plan on restoring it to listen in my garage.

Physical inspection looks good. All three tone pots are stuck. Powered up on DBT, the lights are very green, there is a slight hum. Left channel is distorted in speakers, not in headphones (when speakers are not enabled).

Initial Adjustments:
Took off the DBT. Plugged into main, set p800 voltage to 35V, set DC Offset to 0 on Left and Right, no problems.
then tried idle-current.
Right set to 13 mV.
Left when measure between J715/J716 it is always 0 volts, no matter what I set R717 to.


Tone Board:
It had something I had not ever seen. I could not turn the mid and bass pots at all. Its as if someone lubricated them with superglue. I took it apart to remove the board and tried to see if there was anything broken with the pots. They look fine, just very tight. I sprayed with deoxit and faderlube to see if they would losen up. I could not get the mid bass pot to budge. The treble pot loosened up some, but still very tight.

Since I had a 2275 tone board for parts, I moved all three pots over since they are the same part number. Now they seem good. I can adjust the tone controls and the sound changes with them.

Lamps:
Since I had the face off, time to replace the fuselamps with warm white LEDS. I replaced the burnt out Stereo lamp with an 8V incandescent bipin lamp. The 8V led was a little too bright and made the stereo lamp look a little orange.

Power Board (P800):
New relay. MY2-02-24DC
Replaced the electrolytic caps with Nichicon PW series on power supply.
Hum seems to have gone away.

Left amp board (P700)
Now back to the Left amp board.
I removed and tested the outputs, and reseated with fresh DOW 340.
Still can not adjust idle-current.

Since distortion only shows up when I press the speaker (system1) button, I thought there might be a problem with the Outputs. I replaced the D555 -> MJ21194G, and B600 -> MJ21193G. No Difference, distortion on speakers, clear in headphones, unless the system1 button is enabled.
I then moved on to the diff pair.
Replaced H701/H702 with KSA992FBU HFE matched and bound with thermal paste and heatshrink. The originals were not bound together.

I'm kind of getting stuck for now, and would love any pointers....
 
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Left amp board. I will replace the electrolytics, and Q703/704, but only after I fix the issue of not being able to set idle-current.


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Look for a broken wire going from J706 to either the other amp board or to the power supply (J804) It should provide +35VDC from J804 to J706 on both amp boards.
Perhaps R737 is open or C714 has shorted.

If all that's OK, I would check every semiconductor on the board, removing them one at a time.
You can safely operate the amp with the ASO transistors removed until you get it fixed(QW709 and Q710).
I would replace those 'green gob' diodes (Q703 and Q704 ) on both amps at some point too. Use two 1N4448 or 1N4148 diodes in series for each gob.

Tom
 
Look for a broken wire going from J706 to either the other amp board or to the power supply (J804) It should provide +35VDC from J804 to J706 on both amp boards.
Perhaps R737 is open or C714 has shorted.

If all that's OK, I would check every semiconductor on the board, removing them one at a time.
You can safely operate the amp with the ASO transistors removed until you get it fixed(QW709 and Q710).
I would replace those 'green gob' diodes (Q703 and Q704 ) on both amps at some point too. Use two 1N4448 or 1N4148 diodes in series for each gob.

Tom
Thanks for the ideas Tom,

I checked J706 and it is +35VDC.
I pulled C714 and tested it. It was 121uf 1.1% vloss, and ESR .14%. I replaced it with a 100uf/63V.
I pulled R737 and it measured 100ohm exactly.

Powered back on and same distortion in left channel when speaker turned on. I still hear the distortion in the headphones only when enabling the system1 button.

I will continue digging into and testing the other transistors on the board.
 
OK, I found it!
Left P700 amp board
Q707 (2SD415) was bad. I had a MJE243G onhand and used it as a sub.
Powered on DBT and I could adjust voltage between J715/J716 could now be adjusted via R717.

Distortion is gone by ear...
I then replaced the remaining electrolytic capacitors, and replaced Q703/Q704 with 1N4148 x2 in series.

Reinstalled the original outputs, D555 and B600 as they test fine.
Was able to adjust dc offset, and idle-current on the Left P700 board. Seems stable, but I have not run in for very long yet.
I still notice a hum when listening in silent passages or when volume down. I will most likely replace the main filter caps.

Next up :
Distortion analysis. To verify the Left amp board is within distortion and power specs.
Filter Caps
Recap Right amp board.
Tone board.
Phono board
We will see about the FM boards after....
 
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Hi
Is there any cap and transistors list with (or without) currently available parts no for Digikey or Mouser? I can find for 2265B but not for 2265.
Any help will be great!
Thanks
 
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