Marantz 2270 w/black faceplate

[thxdave]

Ugh, that's too high for my budget. I got lucky when I took my first case in for stripping and painting as the owner quoted me a very reasonable price. When I went back with case #2, another painter quoted me a MUCH higher price. I was walking out (with my case) when the owner caught me and offered the original price and told me to always ask for him when I came there. Guess I got lucky the first time!

 

[Steven Tate]

You definitely got lucky. I don’t plan on doing many of these, so just as an experiment, I thought the cost was OK. I’ll post pics when I get it assembled.

 

[mrussel1]

Hey everyone, I just finished replacing my marred silver face 2245 with a gorgeous black one from Bob. Great guy to deal with and he had tremendous instructions and pics for a few of the potential pitfalls. Anyways, the vinyl brown case has to go now. My question is, does the vinyl have to be removed in order to paint? My vinyl is on there pretty well and I have half a mind to primer it and paint with some urethane based paint. I'm concerned if I start stripping, it will be a brutal job with remnants left over. Also concerned that if the paint over vinyl fails, that removal process will be even worse. Has anyone tried to prime and paint over the vinyl?

 

[Steven Tate]

I had to cope with this to get mine powder coated. The powder coater was going to charge double if he stripped the vinyl. I took it home and hoped I could pull the vinyl off. No dice. I tried a heat gun. No dice. I had some thick paint stripper on hand and gave it a try. It worked slowly, but it worked. I applied a thick coat to the top surface, and it took about 4-5 minutes to start bubbling up and separating from the metal. After a few more minutes and some more stripper, I was able to peel off 95% of the vinyl easily. Another coat of the stripper removed the remnants. It took me about 45 minutes to strip the whole thing. The metal was in very good shape under the vinyl. I would not try to paint the vinyl. You will get a much better looking job by stripping it off.

 

[mrussel1]

I had to cope with this to get mine powder coated. The powder coater was going to charge double if he stripped the vinyl. I took it home and hoped I could pull the vinyl off. No dice. I tried a heat gun. No dice. I had some thick paint stripper on hand and gave it a try. It worked slowly, but it worked. I applied a thick coat to the top surface, and it took about 4-5 minutes to start bubbling up and separating from the metal. After a few more minutes and some more stripper, I was able to peel off 95% of the vinyl easily. Another coat of the stripper removed the remnants. It took me about 45 minutes to strip the whole thing. The metal was in very good shape under the vinyl. I would not try to paint the vinyl. You will get a much better looking job by stripping it off.

Good advice and I was hoping it wasn't true that it had to be stripped, but figured it was. When you say "heavy stripper", do you mean like a gel stripper like this.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CitriStrip-Stripping-Gel-1-QT/1000567963 I actually have some of this sitting around from a previous project, so that would be convenient.
Also, did you choose powder coating because it was harder, and likely more resistant to heat, or was it for aesthetic?

 

[rBuckner]

I have a couple that will likely need this done so it was nice to get Steven's methodology! I'd powdercoat as it's much harder and more scratch resistant. You can get a smooth semigloss and the fine textured type coating in black. Post a picture if you get it done!

 

[Steven Tate]

Good advice and I was hoping it wasn't true that it had to be stripped, but figured it was. When you say "heavy stripper", do you mean like a gel stripper like this.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CitriStrip-Stripping-Gel-1-QT/1000567963 I actually have some of this sitting around from a previous project, so that would be convenient.
Also, did you choose powder coating because it was harder, and likely more resistant to heat, or was it for aesthetic?

In my experience, the citrus based strippers are not as strong. I used this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-qt-Premium-Stripper-QKPS301SC/307995062

Frankly, I picked powder coating because @thxdave’s 2245 looked so good with that finish with the bonus being superior durability as rBuckner mentioned.

 

[mrussel1]

In my experience, the citrus based strippers are not as strong. I used this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-qt-Premium-Stripper-QKPS301SC/307995062

Frankly, I picked powder coating because @thxdave’s 2245 looked so good with that finish with the bonus being superior durability as rBuckner mentioned.

Hey thanks for all the great information. I really appreciate you taking the time. I'll probably strip inn the next few months and then decide whether to powder or not. Either way, the brown vinyl does not look good with black...or silver for that matter. Here's the black face at home in the cabinet, feeding the Outlaw 5000.

 

[tankbaby2]

Where are you located? Maybe you are already close to one of them.

I'm here in Raleigh NC. Getting into this crazy game now. Hunting down a marantz 2270 (easy to find) a good tech (also easy to find) and a black face plate (damn near impossible!)

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[krautmaster]

I got my painted one from a German Company on Ebay for about $115- very nice quality, fit perfectly.

https://www.ebay.de/str/eternalaudiohifi/Marantz-Faceplate/_i.html?_storecat=23016499016

Padauk WC-22 case

• krautmaster
• Apr 15, 2020
• 4

New case made by Aaron at Vintage HiFi Audio -beautiful!

109_1672

• krautmaster
• Apr 15, 2020

African Padauk WC-22 case

 

[krautmaster]

I forgot to mention how I fixed the fake vinyl wood grain metal case on my 2275: BRAKE FLUID...a lot less messy and stink free. I put on a coat and let it sit for 10-15 min...did this three times until the vinyl softened up, then I peeled it up in mostly one piece. There were a few spots in the grate area that stuck and had to use a plastic scraper to get them off, but overall not to hard. Found there was a little rust under a few spots so I gave the whole thing a good once over with my orbital sander then spray on some rust converter paint for good measure. Top coat is flat black automotive "crackle" paint. I let it dry in the dark garage overnight (if you put it in direct sun or the oven to dry it "crackles" too much). It turned out pretty nice, but you can't see it anymore since it is in a new wood case.

109_1670

• krautmaster
• Apr 18, 2020

Black case 1

109_1671

• krautmaster
• Apr 18, 2020

Black Case 2

109_1679

• krautmaster
• Apr 18, 2020

Vintage HiFi Audio WC-22 xase

Padauk WC-22 case

• krautmaster
• Apr 15, 2020
• 4

New case made by Aaron at Vintage HiFi Audio -beautiful!

 

[tankbaby2]

Just bought what looked like the last one - many thanks my man!

 

[jimbo2k]

I got mine this way.Honestly, if it had been silver, I would not have purchased it.

 

[87astro]

I'm here in Raleigh NC. Getting into this crazy game now. Hunting down a marantz 2270 (easy to find) a good tech (also easy to find) and a black face plate (damn near impossible!)

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Greetings!

I have two Marantz (2265B & 2226B) that I want to find somebody that will do a full restoration on. I live in Winston Salem, NC and saw that you were from Raleigh. Did you find someone near by that did a good job? Mainly want them looked over, cleaned thoroughly, new LED lights installed and pots cleaned. If they recommend a full recap then that would be great too.

Thank you in advance!

Steve

 

[tankbaby2]

Steve, yeah I'm actually here in Chapel Hill and the guy i'm going to use (haven't used but have heard awesome things about) is in Thousand Oaks, NC. Not a terrible drive for you from Winston, but a hike. He does everything you indicated and is loathe to simply recap to recap (a good thing) as there's no reason to replace good high quality working componentry w/ new, crappier componentry! Give him a call and tell him the annoying Marantz guy recommended you :

http://www.theanalogstore.com/

 

[catrafter]

Steve, yeah I'm actually here in Chapel Hill and the guy i'm going to use (haven't used but have heard awesome things about) is in Thousand Oaks, NC. Not a terrible drive for you from Winston, but a hike. He does everything you indicated and is loathe to simply recap to recap (a good thing) as there's no reason to replace good high quality working componentry w/ new, crappier componentry! Give him a call and tell him the annoying Marantz guy recommended you :

http://www.theanalogstore.com/

That's a nice service bench.

Tom

 

[tankbaby2]

I forgot to mention how I fixed the fake vinyl wood grain metal case on my 2275: BRAKE FLUID...a lot less messy and stink free. I put on a coat and let it sit for 10-15 min...did this three times until the vinyl softened up, then I peeled it up in mostly one piece. There were a few spots in the grate area that stuck and had to use a plastic scraper to get them off, but overall not to hard. Found there was a little rust under a few spots so I gave the whole thing a good once over with my orbital sander then spray on some rust converter paint for good measure. Top coat is flat black automotive "crackle" paint. I let it dry in the dark garage overnight (if you put it in direct sun or the oven to dry it "crackles" too much). It turned out pretty nice, but you can't see it anymore since it is in a new wood case.

109_1670

• krautmaster
• Apr 18, 2020

Black case 1

109_1671

• krautmaster
• Apr 18, 2020

Black Case 2

109_1679

• krautmaster
• Apr 18, 2020

Vintage HiFi Audio WC-22 xase

Padauk WC-22 case

• krautmaster
• Apr 15, 2020
• 4

New case made by Aaron at Vintage HiFi Audio -beautiful!

hey guys - I’m trying to flip from the silver faceplate to the black and ran into an issue where the black washers are fixed to the original w a black tar substance. Not sure how to remove those. Is it possible to source those washers or does someone know how to remove the tar and save the washers?

 

[Steven Tate]

Cut around the perimeter with a box cutter or exacto knife, and they should pry out. Put them in the new faceplate with a small amount of adhesive. I use 3M auto trim cement because it is black and looks like the original. Most people hate it because it is a mess if you use too much. Silicone caulk or something like that probably works too. Others will probably have better cement advice, but pretty much anything will work.

 

[tankbaby2]

Cut around the perimeter with a box cutter or exacto knife, and they should pry out. Put them in the new faceplate with a small amount of adhesive. I use 3M auto trim cement because it is black and looks like the original. Most people hate it because it is a mess if you use too much. Silicone caulk or something like that probably works too. Others will probably have better cement advice, but pretty much anything will work.

So the washers will come off and the tar material will come with them? Someone else is doing this work for me so this is 2nd hand discussion.

 

[Steven Tate]

Some of it will stay on the faceplate, and some of it will stay with the washer. That cement is usually not very strong after all of this time. I often find the washer loose when I take the faceplate off. They should easily pry out from the back and transfer.