Correction - it is ce37,38. Yea, I left the originals in for now just so I could go ahead and test the op amps. I will go back and replace those two later.
Marantz 2285 (non B) Restoration
- Thread starter MBuras
- Start date
ASHRA
New Member
Wow! Nice report on bringing your 2285 up to and beyond(?) spec! I have one I picked up a decade ago that still works though I don't believe it has had any work done on it beyond deoxit of pots. I'm far from being technically able to work on it but am considering having it restored. Would you be able to give me an idea if this is a good idea considering the cost and rarity of parts? What would I be getting myself into cost-wise?
Have you had to do any more work on your baby? Thanks!
Have you had to do any more work on your baby? Thanks!
MBuras
Restoration is an Addiction
I can’t speak to what the exact cost is to have someone restore your 2285 but guessing it’ll be more than $500 and less then $1000. It’s a fairly rare receiver and one of the really good ones so definitely worth keeping no matter what.
I didn’t take my own advice and sold mine. Got a good price but I do miss it sometimes. Then again I have so much equipment following me home I just can’t keep everything.
Enjoy your receiver!
I didn’t take my own advice and sold mine. Got a good price but I do miss it sometimes. Then again I have so much equipment following me home I just can’t keep everything.
Enjoy your receiver!
On the PS P800 board 3rd picture,you replaced the 2SD331 transistor in H804 that has only 2 pins..I am restoring my 2285(non B) and THE transistor I find to replace this with(MJE15032G) HAS 3 pins...P-L-E-A-S-E explian to me HOW this is done...Do I just cut the center pin off as there are only 2 holes marked B and E or is there modern sub to replace this with..I have read so many informative posts here on AK but find no info on this particular transistor for a sub...Is there a better sub than the MJE15032G and/or will it complement the MJE15030 for location H801(2SD330E)
You can clip the center lead. The connection to the Collector is through the screw used to mount it to the heatsink.
"The 030's will be fine and the 032's will work if that's what you have. They latter have a higher voltage rating and the 030's have plenty of room there"
"The 030's will be fine and the 032's will work if that's what you have. They latter have a higher voltage rating and the 030's have plenty of room there"
Thank you soooooo much for that help..I am still new to transistors and this one has had me pulling my hair out..I have not ordered any yet as I did not want to screw this one up...From what i have seen on AK this seems to be an option of all the posts I have read.What would be the latter as you mentioned above if I may ask...
Glad to help as many have assisted me when I was in the same position.
The latter as mentioned would be MJE15032G which has a higher voltage rating (overkill). Since you haven't ordered yet I would go with the MJE15030G unless out of stock.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
For the same price overkill, meaning that 32G will still be working years after the receiver gets another recap and then goes to the landfill is the way I would go. No difference in price why not get one that will not break a sweat working forever? But I used the 32G based on the recommendation of EW who said it was sufficient overkill for the application.
Thank you for the wisdom and time..I believed I was on the right track after MUCH searching but wanted to run it experienced individuals..For H801 location I have choosen a MUR1620 to replace the sd330..My research leads me to believe this is a good choice unless I have missed something in the specs..What say ye
Could really use your help if at all possible...Will make a long story short...Redid my amps and took a lot of your knowledge and experience and applied to my restoration of my 2285(non B)..All was good till I accidentally replaced a 2.2 Ohm resistor with a 2.2K ohm resistor..MAGIC SMOKE IMMEDIATELY when I cut it on and cut it off even quicker....The resistors (1/4 watt 10 ohm) in R741 on both amps TOASTED(see picture)..I replaced the 2.2k ohm with the correct 2.2 ohm and replaced the 2 1/4 watt 10 ohm with some used spares I had..Powered up all was well except no volume to speakers..I can turn 1/2 way up and it sounds like a muted FM station trying to come in..I checked all diodes,ele caps and transistors and all are good..Pictures posted of 1 of the amps.I replaced all the transistors with heat sinks form the parts list you have posted from page 3 or 4...I get no reading from the VR,s 726,727 when trying to adjust Idle current and DC offset..Amps to dont seem to be getting their usual warm temp....Thanks for any help....
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Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
@Whuzit I recommend you start a brand new thread about your particular issue. It will be seen by folks that can help moreso that tacking it onto the bottom of a rebuild thread.
If you do that you can 'report' your post in this thread and have it deleted or let it roll. Anyway just trying to help you find the folks that can help you with your unit.
Whuzit did start a new thread, https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...und-from-speakers-or-head-phones-help.910902/
so this thread can go back to the questions and comments about this restoration.
If you do that you can 'report' your post in this thread and have it deleted or let it roll. Anyway just trying to help you find the folks that can help you with your unit.
Whuzit did start a new thread, https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...und-from-speakers-or-head-phones-help.910902/
so this thread can go back to the questions and comments about this restoration.
Last edited:
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
I agree with Blue Shadow. In the mean time, have you tested your output transistors since the event?
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