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Marantz 2325 Loud noise in both speakers HELP!

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by johndoe10, Jan 17, 2018.

  1. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    It appears that I'll have to shorten two of the pins, due to having only 6 holes on the PCB.

    Thanks -- John
     

     

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  2. wurlyman

    wurlyman Active Member

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    The first LY that I ordered Steven had the perforated pins and they wouldn't go through the holes. I re-ordered LY2-0-24DC and it worked perfectly, just like other component pins. The difference was the 0 in the center of the part number.-Stu
     
  3. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,955
    Location:
    N. Richland Hills, TX
    Yep, I’ve had both kinds of boards. Now it’s just one of those things I look for before ordering a relay - wide spade terminals or narrow pin terminals. The data sheet will tell you the right version depending on terminal type and layout.
     
  4. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    Hi All -- The relay and replacements for the tantalum capacitors have arrived and are installed, but the popping noise is still present. It seems to occur more often in the left channel than in the right. Any advice?


    Thanks -- John
     
  5. stupidhead

    stupidhead aka Ratdogheads Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,123
    Location:
    Southern New Hampshire
    watching this with interest as Randy has my 2325 now and has a snapping condition as well. Symptoms do not sound similar however.

    Good luck!
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2018
  6. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    Thanks man!
     

     

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  7. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    I am just completely bewildered.

    John
     
  8. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    Let me know what he found or how the issue was remedied.

    Thanks -- John
     
  9. stupidhead

    stupidhead aka Ratdogheads Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,123
    Location:
    Southern New Hampshire
    Hi John,

    I likely will not get any feedback from Randy til the end of the month. He had a number of projects ahead of mine and I am not in any particular rush either.
    As I said, your symptoms and observations are similar but not the same as mine, even if he nails down a cause it may not be (and likely isn't) your issue.

    Geoff
     
  10. KutzlerTrans

    KutzlerTrans Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney. Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,990
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Are these Klipsch speakers at higher volume??

    Even though the popping is independent on each channel,
    I would recommend reflowing all solder joints on the Power Supply and checking the big copper inductor coil solder joints on the mains.
    I have seen ends so loose they can be pulled out.
    That goes for any leg that moves while gently massaging the parts above.

    Look at every solder joint with a magnifying glass for a ring or deterioration around the legs and if possible, turn off the lights and watch the tracks for sparks when it pops.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2018
  11. blhagstrom

    blhagstrom Mad Scientist, fixer. Subscriber

    Messages:
    12,857
    Location:
    Duvall, Washington

     

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  12. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

    Messages:
    9,656
    Location:
    Prescott, Arizona
    I had not heard any popping from Geoff's 2325 so as to be able to pinpoint it. I've had issues with the small buffer board about in the center of the bottom of the chassis so always rebuild this with not only new electrolytics, but replace the double diode with two 1N4148's in series and replace all of the transistors. I will post the subs used later when I'm at home to access the info.

    Being too lazy to go back and look, has anyone suggested connecting the left preamp output to the right main amp input and vice versa on the other channel to isolate where the fault is, amp module or preamp side? If the noise is still on the same channel it's the amp. If the noise goes away it may be that the switching contacts on the preamp out jacks are dirty. They can be permanently bypassed by the use of short RCA to RCA cables. Do not use any unshielded "u bars" here.
     
  13. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    Hi -- I actually have the red RCA's that connect directly to the modules unplugged. I never bothered to plug them back in after changing parts, but the popping is still present and is more frequent in the left channel than in the right.

    Thanks -- John
     
  14. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    Is it possible that the 2sc1628 or 2sa818 could be causing the loud popping issue?

    John
     
  15. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

    Messages:
    9,656
    Location:
    Prescott, Arizona
    The module depends on that RCA connection to make ground I believe but it is not why you have popping. It does seem that it's the amp module then. It absolutely can be those transistors or any other or a diode. You can always swap the transistors from good channel to bad to check that and sometimes it's the only way to figure out the bad guy. One thing I always do is change out the front end pair of transistors AKA the differential pair as any noise in them gets very much magnified. They should be gain (hFE) matched for best results in setting the dc offset and likely lowering the distortion a hair or two.
     
    catrafter likes this.
  16. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    Thanks for the advice. The differential pairs have already been changed along with the rest of the TO-92 transistors on both boards, that just leaves the larger transistors and diodes as the possible culprits. I'll have to swap parts around like you advised.

    Thanks -- John
     

     

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  17. catrafter

    catrafter Marantz Specialist Subscriber

    Messages:
    6,212
    Location:
    Montana
    R719 and R720 can get so hot that the 'de-solder' themselves from the circuit board. I replace them with 1.2KΩ 3Watt metal oxide film types leaving the leads long. If you leave a little lead (say 1/16 of and inch) protruding through the solder side of the board, you can make a better solder joint. I have seen this make a 'popping' noise and take out the 20V zener diodes, H716 and H717 (1N5932B). I mount new ones up off the board as the leads form part of the heat sink.

    2325 RPA.jpg 2325 RPA.jpg

    Tom
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2018
    KutzlerTrans likes this.
  18. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    Hi Tom -- I haven't had to replace any resistors as of yet, but I did reflow all the solder joints on both of the module boards.

    Thanks -- John
     
  19. wurlyman

    wurlyman Active Member

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    John,
    I took Tom's advise and replaced those two resistors as he recommended and my unit runs beautifully. Very happy with it.


    _DSC0360.JPG
    _DSC0361.JPG
     
  20. johndoe10

    johndoe10 Active Member

    Messages:
    177
    I recently noticed that the DC offset pots run pretty warm. Are they supposed too?

    John
     

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