Marantz 2325 Transformer problem

I had a 2270 with an open thermal fuse.
Had to split open the bell housings to get at it.
Wasn't buried in there too far.
Replaced it and back in business!!

Bob
 
Any idea Marantx 2325 powers on lights and relay clicks on....checked power supply board and no votalge to J801 ,J802
checked power coming in perfect ..checked votage at Sg-5ts and Sg-5tr 60v

any ideas or is the transformer done (fuse) Help thanks
 
The 2325 transformers that were produced for Canada have an internal thermal fuse. Another AK'er recently repaired one and sent me some pictures. Here is his description: "A short bit of thin wire placed between the internal coil wire and one of the wires that exit the transformer case to the AC input". I've attached two pictures, one includes circles and arrows, many thanks to the AK'r who sent this.

View attachment 746316

Also discussed in this thread:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/whats-this-inductor-fuse-inside-a-transformer.692377/

Not meaning to leap way ahead on troubleshooting the OP's 2325.

This thread saved me.

The primary on the transformer of my Marantz 2325 was reading zero after the amplifier went south. It was working perfectly one minute and then the right channel started to crackle and the receiver went dead. Nothing! no power to it at all and no fuses blew. So on the bench it went and the first thing I discovered was the transformer primary was showing 0 ohms. Great! where am I going to get another transformer?. Nothing on Ebay so I did a google search with the following. "Marantz 2325 is dead" and that search led me to this thread and your contribution led me to the fuse able link of the transformer. I didn't even know it had one. I removed the transformer and took the side off as you show in the picture. I had to cut the copper shielding with my Dremel tool peeled it back and saw the problem. The fuse-able link was still OK but the very thin wire that goes to the fuse-able link from the Blue wire of the primary was broken. I think it must have melted. So! I was able to push the fusible link out of the plastic tube it was in and re solder it back to the blue wire. In the process of removing the link I destroyed the tube so I used a plastic straw to replace it.
On reassembly I soldered the copper shield back together and used some CA to put back the insulation cloth that covered the wires. I am now getting 1.7 ohms from the primary. This is good!!!!!

Now I have to figure out what caused this in the first place. Probably a bad output on the right channel driver board but that will be another story
 
Last edited:
Based on an AK members recommdation I should test all transistors of the driver board out off circuit with a good transistor testor. I didn’t have one so I bought an Atlas DCA55 and tested all the transistors using it. Non of them tested bad but I now have a good tester and am very happy with. At least I know I can properly test them in the future.
Going forward with troubleshooting the driver board I came across a resistor that is way out of spec. It is the white left bottom square showing in the picture. Let’s call it a resistor pack because the writing on its side saids it is a 0.2
ohm + 0.2 ohm k. One side measures .2 ohms and the other side measures 358 ohms out of circuit.

Can I use separate round resistors to replace the bad one as long as it is the same value? If so should I replace them all on both driver boards.
What wattage transistors should I replace them with? I’m thinking at lease 2 watts.

D6171AD7-B024-4922-8E84-DC29337EE4C2.jpeg E78E6D83-040B-4750-A376-32B25EB7D773.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Yes, separate resisters are fine, I used Digi-Key PPC5W.20CT-ND on mine and replaced them on both boards for uniformity.

Be sure to raise them a bit off the board for heat concerns.
 
The C496 transistor at location H714 right channel is testing as a diode and that’s wrong so I want to replace it. It’s a T126 package. What is a good equivalent for the C496 since that one seems to no longer be available. NTE shows a equivalent but I want to stay away from NTE if possible.

George
 
Last edited:
H714 is connected as a diode, the base and collector are tied together.

Tom
Yes if it’s tested In circuit that is the case but I tested it out of circuit so a transistor is how it should test as. The test showed no collector.
 
MM-17-5.jpg
 
I’m using my new Atlas DCA55 transistor tester. It takes out most of the guess work. I should have got one years ago!
 
Back
Top Bottom