Marantz Led light replacement project.

Thanks, EW! I'm going to check these out. Im sure the color issue has improved, based on your description....


There's so many LED's out there that I can safely say that there are many that would look like ass, and many that would look pretty good.

These are the ones I have been using (and the ones that eBay seller I suggested earlier also uses). They have a 360° dispersion, and a color temperature just a tad hotter than a florescent lamp (white with a slight leaning towards the blue). They work great for Marantz tuner backlights.
 
I'm curious, what value resistor do you use with them?
For Marantz units (and others that use fuse-lamps), I've simply bought pre-made assemblies from eBay seller whsh94a. Much easier than dinking around & making them myself.
 
Hey - regarding the old colour controversy ... here's my 2285B with LEDs (made it go much bluer):
2812572432_5da227fe37_z.jpg

and here is an unretouched scan from the 1978 Marantz catalogue:
marantz06.jpg

Not too far off!
 
Blue or green...

I have 2238B (silver face) with quite high mileage and much "younger" 2215B and 2250 (dark tuner display) - all with original incandescent bulbs. 2238B is more or less the same blue as it was 30 years ago when I bough it, maybe a tad darker. On the other hand, 2215B and 2250 are both greenish, not turquoise blue but almost green even after velum replacement. Might be going LED soon mainly to reduce heat build up but this greenish display tendency of older Marantz receivers (as opposed to later silver faced ones) remains a mystery to me. Maybe tuner dial plexiglass looses its color properties faster (heat,age) than on silver faced models but when I look at them against the white background (removed from the unit of course :) they both look blue - figure that one out?

BTW, I have never seen "green" lights on any silver face Marantz...
 
Just converted the 2285b to LED's. It does look a little purplish. Why is that? The lamps were 2 diode instead of 3. There is a seller in Portland that states the 3 diode lamps (rather than 2 diode) produce a light closer to the original blue. Does that really make a difference?
 
I just got some LED lights (innersound I believe) from Portland for my 2220. I installed them and they look great. I love the blue. A couple buddy's came over and commented on them without me saying anything.
 
Just converted the 2285b to LED's. It does look a little purplish. Why is that? The lamps were 2 diode instead of 3. There is a seller in Portland that states the 3 diode lamps (rather than 2 diode) produce a light closer to the original blue. Does that really make a difference?
Warm white (left) vs Bright white (right) LEDs. The warm white gives you beautiful blue, the bright white gives you an almost purple color.
38f12478d0375949222553ca09cd20c3.jpg
 
I've used the Portlland ePay source for three of my marantz units with great success. The bulbs are so cheap now, I can't see every replacing any of my units with incandescent bulbs again. It is a little bit different look, but I like how they display with the LEDs.
 
If the color is correct, and I could keep them dim enough to not light up a dim room, then I agree that LED's are great.

But my stuff is all still original style bulbs, replaced most them in most units a few years ago. Nice and "dim".
 
Too expensive. And you don't need current regulator. What I do (and haven't seen anyone do) is make oblong PC boards that fit between the caps of blown fuses to create the fuse style lamps. On the boards I have two strings of two 0603 LEDs and one resistor which are mounted anti-parallel. This means they can handle more current because they are on only like 30% of the time. Because they light up alternating as they are powered by AC voltage the flickering cancels out nicely. Only snag is that producing these devices is more expensive than ordering them...

Tjerk, 9ZZ
 
Too expensive. And you don't need current regulator. What I do (and haven't seen anyone do) is make oblong PC boards that fit between the caps of blown fuses to create the fuse style lamps. On the boards I have two strings of two 0603 LEDs and one resistor which are mounted anti-parallel. This means they can handle more current because they are on only like 30% of the time. Because they light up alternating as they are powered by AC voltage the flickering cancels out nicely. Only snag is that producing these devices is more expensive than ordering them...

Tjerk, 9ZZ
LED's in general like to have controlled current which this CCR will do . Resistor is the cheaper than CCR but CCR will control LED current regardless the voltage change across LED. this is advantage if voltage is fluctuating . I have ordered 20mA so it should be good enough for selector bulbs ..:)
 
These devices are 20 eurocents if you buy 100. From Pharnell. AND you must supply DC. I bought 3000 resistors for €16. But if it rocks your boat go for it. These are fine devices. Having said that, LEDs don't care how they are fed as long as you don't exceed their (current) limits. Marantz has 20 Vpp AC (that is: 10 V peak) supply voltage for their dial lamps. A resistor will limit that juuuuuuust fine.

Tjerk, 9ZZ
 
Too expensive. And you don't need current regulator. What I do (and haven't seen anyone do) is make oblong PC boards that fit between the caps of blown fuses to create the fuse style lamps. On the boards I have two strings of two 0603 LEDs and one resistor which are mounted anti-parallel. This means they can handle more current because they are on only like 30% of the time. Because they light up alternating as they are powered by AC voltage the flickering cancels out nicely. Only snag is that producing these devices is more expensive than ordering them...

Tjerk, 9ZZ
I have designed my own pc boards and they have a full wave bridge and cap on the back for zero flicker. Two medium power large warm white LEDs on the front and holes for an eighth watt through hole resistor for current limiting. I recycle old fuse lamps, harvesting the end caps for re-use. I like being able to set the brightness and often go over the standard brightness on silver faced models like the 2330B, 2500, etc. as those are so dang dark!

@Traverse: For that reason I wouldn't use this device as you're stuck with a set current. Interesting device though and thanks for posting it!
 
Yes that is true. I have ordered them 10/15/20mA and will post progress with the upgrade. 20191020_173349.jpg See how yellowed vellum paper shifted dial color toward the green.
 
^^^ Oh yeah... the vellum does that very well! Quite a few folks use other materials these days like mylar drafting sheets, baking parchment and such. I like Canson Opalux art grade acid free paper as it will not yellow. I've seen a unit after 9 years and it's still like new looking.
 
I have designed my own pc boards and they have a full wave bridge and cap on the back for zero flicker. Two medium power large warm white LEDs on the front and holes for an eighth watt through hole resistor for current limiting. I recycle old fuse lamps, harvesting the end caps for re-use. I like being able to set the brightness and often go over the standard brightness on silver faced models like the 2330B, 2500, etc. as those are so dang dark!

@Traverse: For that reason I wouldn't use this device as you're stuck with a set current. Interesting device though and thanks for posting it!
Maybe you can add external ambient light sensor to set LED light based on conditions:)
 
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