Discussion in 'McIntosh Audio' started by drsiebling, Nov 10, 2017.
Aren't MC2105 lamps bayonet type?
not positive. by bayonet, you mean the ones that have connector on either side of the bulb? meaning they install "sideways"?
Example of bayonet.
MX110 dial lamps are fuse type.
not sure what the 2105 bulbs are but the ones on ebay look like the one above...
the real issue is removing the glass - sucker cracks if you sneeze to close to it. already broke it once. if i was smart I'd order glass now for all 3 components just to have on hand...takes 3-6 months to get them
It really shouldn't be that difficult to remove without destroying the glass. By any chance are you disassembling the framework because that should not be done. You only remove the side screws (2 or 3 per side and possibly some along the bottom(?)) and the faceplate, rails and endcaps come out as an entire assembly. It's been a while since I removed a faceplate so I'm not 100% certain as to the precise number of screws but that's the general idea.
In any case, knowing what lamps are used in the MX110 won't be of any help to suitable lamp options for the MC2105.
you are correct about glass removal in general. It's replacing it that's touchy but also, I cracked the glass the first time when I just moved the unit. I think the problem then was that (a) it wasn't in a cabinet yet and (b) it might have been on the carpet and the carpet caught the front of the plate maybe...
This can work in some cases, but there's a point where the LED gives up. LED's are usually dimmed by PWM, not (reliably) voltage.
If I were to research dimming of Caddy's setup, I'd offer a physical solution using polarized gels in the light path. 2 layers of gel, where one layer is set, the other would be rotated.
With this idea, the LED's always get the correct voltage, and by using 2 polarized plastic gels, the light could be infinitely adjustable, from nearly all on (polarization gels the same) to all off (polarization gels at 90 degrees.)
I've bought some LED dimmers off of Amazon for an unrelated project
Good luck with projects!
Agreed. I use a PWM controller for the AutoMeter Elite gauges in my Mustang for that very reason. This allows you to dim the gauges down to below 10% and have the LEDs work. However, in caddy's case, he could likely obtain satisfactory brightness by reducing input voltage.
Not a bad idea about the polarized gels however it might result in mismatched coloration between the three amplifiers and I'd be right back where I started.
I once owned an MR78 that I had received with LED dial lamps already installed. While the panel illumination switch still did work, it had very little effect on brightness.
Keeping the color constant is why I suggested polarizers, rather than filter gels.
If you've got the colors right, polarizers only affect luminance.
Used as described, you'd have a physically adjustable contrast control.
I'd probably try Tony's suggestion first, though.
At first, I thought about how to install a PWM controller into 'Caddy's amplifier, then I realized something;
So I went with my 'light valve' approach.
Your voltage idea could work, depending on the tolerance of the LED; some give up within a couple of tenths of a volt.
I've got some LED's designed around 3.3 volts running happily on 3 volts.. Probably getting some extended life out of that.
'Caddy, you used gel's to get the color you wanted? I've been thinking of going that route myself, white LED's getting better and better. If the LED's were around 2700 Kelvin, they might not need much tweaking (only brightness, as described.)
I removed my ratty gel and replaced the incandescents with blue leds from an ebay seller who specializes in pinball machine bulb upgrades. Couldn't be happier with the results.
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