MC30 Restoration - Filter Caps

What's the recommended way to replace filter caps?

  • Stuff the original cans

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Disconnect and leave cans, install new axials underneath

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    7

sjfloat

Super Member
What's the best practice for filter cap replacement?

I'm also considering an incremental approach, e.g., using axials inside as part of getting it functional and then buying new cans later.
 
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Not sure about the MC30s, but for the MC60s I bought a drop-in which had only two sections instead of 4, but they were larger in capacitance; used them to add a little to the power supply. One of the sections was dedicated to power the C8 preamp, and I never will need that ability, so I left it out. That left me one section short, and I fabbed a bracket to hold a modern axial electrolytic under the chassis.

The cosmetics of the replaced cap is perfect, the amp performs even better, and it looks neat underneath. Cheaper than Authenticap.

But if you aren't reasonably confident with tweaking a circuit slightly and safely, Authenticaps are the way to go. I don't think re-stuffing is a really viable option, and simply disconnecting the originals could set you up for a messy leak later on.
 
Don't do double work. Just do a proper rebuild. Authenticap 80/40/30/20 multisection is the way to go with MC30's. Virtually the same size as original. Use the 40uF for C12A and tie the 80 & 30 sections together for C12B and the 20uF for C12C. The slight increase in capacitance down the line does wonders for bass performance in that amp. The C12C is for the preamp power plug and isn't necessary, but I use it in case the next owner of these amps wants to use it. My 2¢
 
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