MC60 Layout

Woa. Thats a thing of beauty. Ive just got one amp confirmed operational. Wanting to make sure the iron is good before i restore them. Ordered Pio caps to replace the bumblebees first.
 

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Dont suppose anyone happens to know about C6 in the scematic? Serial 4496 aand up show it bridged accross r11. This cap does not show on my amps.
Sams photofact calls it c8, and show it on the back side of the board supposidly. 470mmf no voltage given
 

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It's on the cap side of the board between the 100uf & the 8uf caps and looks a bit like a resistor. Its part of the feedback circuit.

View attachment 1238429
Oh, i kept staring at that one. Lighter in color than the rest, wondered if they actually used resistors instead of super small caps...(prob makes no sense) thank you so much for clearing that up. I guess i use the sencore to measure it? Or simply replace for good measure?
I think ive got this sams layout altered to reflect mcintosh cap designations. Could you have a gander? See if i got locations correct?
Ive ordered russian PIO for the 6 bumble bee, but no real idea whats best for the rest, or if the bias one should be different than all the rest?
I really appriciate your conformation and time. Thank you
 

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Oh, i kept staring at that one. Lighter in color than the rest, wondered if they actually used resistors instead of super small caps...(prob makes no sense) thank you so much for clearing that up. I guess i use the sencore to measure it? Or simply replace for good measure?
I think ive got this sams layout altered to reflect mcintosh cap designations. Could you have a gander? See if i got locations correct?
Ive ordered russian PIO for the 6 bumble bee, but no real idea whats best for the rest, or if the bias one should be different than all the rest?
I really appriciate your conformation and time. Thank you
Mine appears to be on the back side of the board though. Nothing in between on the cap side, but is essentialy between them on the back side. Confirm if you can with the pic? (Next to white wire)
 

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That's another spot for them and is where they are on the MC30s. They rarely go bad and if they do, Terry DeWick has told me you can use a silver mica as a substitute. Your photofact looks to be correct for the 4496 & above.
 
That's another spot for them and is where they are on the MC30s. They rarely go bad and if they do, Terry DeWick has told me you can use a silver mica as a substitute. Your photofact looks to be correct for the 4496 & above.
Had to cut the cord off one of them. Its all hard and frayed all the way. So, i will do the same to the other one. No real need to keep the cord i wouldnt think.
I powered it with no cord with my double ended plug. Just went in through the socket out.
Then it dawned on me. I could leave it this way, a.d remove the plastic plug that held the cord. This gives me a stock hole in the chassis where i can install a power switch.
 
Double ended plugs are just a very bad idea. Why not remove the socket for the plug and stick a switch in that location. Run a new cord back into the strain relief.
Someday, someone for what ever reason will pull that plug out and get the shock of there life. Not cool.

BillWojo
 
Screenshot_20180721-094711_Samsung Internet.jpg Any word definitively on the Russian k40y-9 PIO caps foil orientation significance?
Been reading...which is difficult to sort all the opinions.
1. Curiouse if the k40y matters,
2. Curiouse how to tell on the schematic which direction the foil side WOULD go to, should i use a different cap where it MAY matter, and which caps matter and which ones dont. (Strictly speaking, the non polorized)

Ive read as many mc60 rebuild threads as i can find, and did not see this info so figured i would ask. Apologies if its been covered, and thank you to the folks who have assisted me.
 
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