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McIntosh Feet

Discussion in 'McIntosh Audio' started by doodle6, Aug 17, 2008.

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  1. c-atle-79bay

    c-atle-79bay Super Member

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    2,601
    Location:
    Seattle
    Reading and walk in missed the answer.
     

     

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  2. VintageMac

    VintageMac McIntosh Junkie

    Messages:
    444
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    I thought I would mention that we now have “proper” replacement feet for McIntosh units and cabinets.

    McIntosh never meant for the shipping feet to be used for their equipment. Those small tapered feet were meant to engage the holes in the shipping cartons to ensure the unit did not shift in transit. In use, the units were expected to be mounted in a cabinet or custom installation.

    We have developed replacement feet with a unique offset mounting hole. The feet attach in the same location and with the same screws as the original shipping feet. The offset hole allows the feet to be rotated out toward the sides of the unit.

    Not only are these feet “beefier” than the shipping feet, but they give a wider stance as well. These can also be used as replacement feet for the non-slant leg cabinets.
    [​IMG]

    They are available now from our website at $8 for a set of 4.


    Larry
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2018
  3. rhing

    rhing Active Member

    Messages:
    334
    Location:
    Twin Cities, Minnesota
    Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement feet and mounting screws for a vintage MC240 amp?
     
  4. dfunghi

    dfunghi AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,358
    Location:
    Central Coast California
    There is an AK vendor ad I see go by on top of page that has hard to find replacement feet. These I believe are after market.
    http://www.sundancepins.com/custom/rrartifacts.htm
     
  5. rhing

    rhing Active Member

    Messages:
    334
    Location:
    Twin Cities, Minnesota
  6. Rob-F

    Rob-F Likes Vintage Gear and DIY

    Messages:
    569
    Location:
    St. Louis, Missouri
    The wood cabinet for my MR67 has simple wood runners about 1/2" by 3/4" and maybe 10 or 12 inches long, one on the left and one on the right. They start about an inch and a quarter back from the front edge and run to the back of the cabinet. They are set in about 1 1/4" in from the left and right edges. They raise the cabinet 3/4" off the shelf. Just rip a couple of sticks and glue or screw 'em on!
     

     

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  7. Mike Gibson

    Mike Gibson Modulator Staff Member Super Mod Subscriber

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    Dufur Oregon
  8. serta1

    serta1 New Member

    Messages:
    31
    I have the MacIntosh 1700 with the original wood case I purchased in 1973. That one has the slanted legs. I also have the exact same setup with the MA6100 and MR77. Those wood cases have the rubber feet. I had to find replacements about 20 years ago. As I recall I found the company that MacIntosh used for the rubber feet was somewhere near Pittsburg, PA. I was able to purchase the feet directly from them. I will have to see if I still have that information somewhere.
     
  9. serta1

    serta1 New Member

    Messages:
    31
    Bruce Plastics in Pittsburgh at one time made the feet for the McIntosh products. When I bought my MA6100 and MR77 they were missing the feet. I was able to get them directly from Bruce. Part number 0944-0014. This was about 25 years ago.

    100_3527.jpg
     
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  10. Suribachi

    Suribachi New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Hi - I just purchased a Mcintosh MA5100 amp and have a question regarding the installed feet on the unit. I've attached a few photos - approx 1/2" high and 1-1/2" wide. Each foot has a metal clip that mounts through an adjacent hole in the bottom panel and is compressed against the foot to hold it in place along with the screw. I have not seen or read anything that looks even remotely close to this setup. The clips do not look jerry rigged and I find it hard to believe somebody would have devised this on there own? I am bringing the unit in to Audio Classics and have them give it a once over and replace caps, etc., as necessary (popping noises), look at a supposedly bad phono input line and replace any burned out bulbs. I would like to replace the feet if they are not original. I may eventually purchase a wood case for it as well so not sure if these feet, assuming not original, would impact placement in the case?
    Thanks for any information, ideas, etc..
    Bill
     

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  11. Ricktptman

    Ricktptman There are two kinds of Music: Good & Bad-Ellington Subscriber

    Messages:
    493
    Location:
    Where it's at!
    That's a big help for me (and I'm sure others as well). I just got finished going through a recently acquired C28. It just started a variety of squawks, buzzes and hums that I found surprising and disappointing. (This after I bragged about how quiet it was..pfffft....) There is a very faint (what sounds like to me) PS hum. (I consider that ignorable.) I did get a well preserved shipping carton (maybe newer than the preamp) and a set of C22/24 (and various MX's) panloc brackets and original manuals. (But no wooden case.) If I read what I see correctly, these brackets WILL work with the C28, correct? IF not, then I'm back to square one with obtaining a wooden cabinet. (Unless the cabinet comes with the brackets.) I tried to make a wise choice and I'm pretty happy with the cosmetic and functional conditions of the unit. (These electronic quirks aside.) The Phono sections are pretty solid. Recommendations are welcome. TIA to everyone.....
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017

     

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  12. c_dk

    c_dk Addicted Member

    Messages:
    6,313
    Location:
    West Michigan
    A typical panloc bracket will have two pair of screw holes, 10 1/2 and 12 1/2 inches from the front. Most of the preamps will use the 12.5 inch location a few the 10.5 inch. There is one other 4 3/16s tall bracket that is deeper for the MC2125 and MC2155 amps.

    The taller panlocs are deep to accept the other power amps.

    The panlocs came with the electronics....cases just had the internal 90 degree mounting bracket attached to the cabinet sidewall.
     
  13. McGuyDF

    McGuyDF New Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Chicago
    just found 11 feet. one must've cracked. so two full sets and one set of "3" but you need to know what size you need, each set of mine is different. I can only assume they came off of my McIntosh 2105, C28 and maybe MR77. there is a label in my bag that says C37 - not sure why since I don't own a C37...
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2018
  14. armyslowrdr

    armyslowrdr I don't want one..LOL

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Speaking of feet. I recently got a C2500 from AudioClassics. The front right corner can be pushed down. In other words the foot is a fraction too short.
    Are the feet adjustable? I haven't tried twisting on them or seeing if they have a screw yet. Just first noticed this last night. I have never ever before had any priced component not have "all 4 feet on the ground".
     
  15. charne@sprin

    charne@sprin Member

    Messages:
    59
    Might be blasphemous, but I've been using hockey pucks to raise up gear for ventilation purposes. They're small, hard rubber, not bad looking, and do the job. Sporting goods websites sell them in bags of a dozen for not much.
     
  16. Bones13

    Bones13 AK Newbie

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    Mobile, AL
    I have a pair of MC60 monoblocks being redone currently. Has anyone experience with any sort of feet for these amps? There is an edge on both ends, with some slots, which I think are for screwing the amps down to a surface. I have secured some platforms with cork on the top surface, and plan to just put the amps down on this, but wondered if anyone has seen feet, or some sort of edge treatment for these amps. I have also heard of putting blocks under the amps, and might go that route as well. Thanks for any advice.
     

     

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  17. Mike Gibson

    Mike Gibson Modulator Staff Member Super Mod Subscriber

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    Dufur Oregon
  18. vinylubber

    vinylubber New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Love this thread!! So here's my story. Bought a MAC1900, with no wood cover. The metal facing is too high and the sheet metal screws were scratching my stereo table so I bought four black tapered feet and screwed them onto the four whiteish nylon bushings (see picture). Just bough a beautiful cabinet, so I found that the holes on the bottom match up with four holes on the bottom of the unit. threaded inserts that looked to be 8-32 thread. So I measured depth required and off to the hardware store to purchase four 8-32 screws 1" long. What I didn't take into account was the nylon bushings, which are about 3/16" thick, so the screws barely fit, but it does seem to be the correct size but I need another 1/4" depth. Then someone from Ausio Classics Ltd told me to use a 10-15 screw, which is a wood screw. So now I'm kind of confused. I'll just stick with my 8-32's. Anyway, I'll send pics for informational purposes, since there seems to be much confusion.
     

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