MCS 3233 Faceplate Removal

Discussion in 'Solid State' started by MCM_Fan, Jun 18, 2018.

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  1. MCM_Fan

    MCM_Fan AK Subscriber

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    2,177
    Location:
    Oregon
    Picked up an MCS 3233 for my girlfriend over the weekend. Everything seems to be functional, but it needs a thorough cleaning (already started on the knobs) and Deoxiting of all the pots and switches. The faceplate also needs a cleaning, but I'm not quite sure how it comes off.

    I removed the vinyl covered wood case, the top two screws and metal plate that holds the lamp assembly and the top of the faceplate in place. However, the bottom of the face plate still seems firmly attached, but there aren't any screws visible from the bottom of the case. Is the bottom of the faceplate just friction fit, or are there some hidden screws I need to remove under the baseplate.

    I only had about five minutes to look at this on my lunch hour, and will give it a more thorough examination when I get home. But, any tips, pointed or suggestions from experienced MCS owners would be appreciated.
     

     

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  2. MCS Guy

    MCS Guy The MCS extraordinaire Subscriber

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    There should be screws under the baseplate. The faceplate is easily removed once the screws are out.
     
  3. MCM_Fan

    MCM_Fan AK Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,177
    Location:
    Oregon
    Thanks, just got it off. Once the base plate was removed, it was obvious what was holding it on (three small flat head Philips screws).

    Any recommendation for cleaning the faceplate? My usual is Dawn dishwashing liquid in warm water, but I read one report of that removing the lettering (but Dawn in cold water didn't). So, I think I'm going to start with Dawn in cold water and proceed with caution.

    Mine has two of the four dial lamps out, but unlike all the reports I read about white lamp holders turning hard and brittle, mine are made from black rubber and still very pliable. I'll probably order four 8V wedge lamps from @dgwojo and replace them all at the same time.

    Finally, have you ever attempted to replace the factory speaker spring terminals on these? This seems to be a problem area. My "A" terminals are quite stiff and they don't spring back after being pushed in (I can manually pull them back out). If you've replaced any, what did you use? Or, is it possible to somehow clean the originals and get them working properly again?

    Thanks for the help and sorry for all the questions, but I figured with a username like @MCS Guy , you'd be the one to ask. This is for a friend, She came over and listened to it last night driving a pair of JBL L19A speakers and really loved the sound (I have to admit, I was also impressed). She's getting the L19As, too!
     
  4. MCS Guy

    MCS Guy The MCS extraordinaire Subscriber

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    491
    Location:
    FL
    I washed mine the same way, mild soap and a regular sponge. Just wipe the surface and don't push hard.

    I have not replace mine yet, but the speaker jacks are terrible. If it got to the point that mine just won't work anymore, I'll probably make up a flat plate and install banana jacks. There is lots of room on the back plate to put anything you want. Just make sure that any speaker terminal you use does NOT ground to the plate. Otherwise you will have a ground loop issue.
     
  5. dzkfraser

    dzkfraser Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Syracuse NY
    try Magic Eraser on the faceplate but be careful around the lettering. I have cleaned many faceplates using this, works quite well.
     
  6. MCM_Fan

    MCM_Fan AK Subscriber

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    2,177
    Location:
    Oregon
    Thanks for the suggestion. I cleaned it last night with some diluted Dawn and cold water. It got all the crud off, but I have a Magic Eraser in the cupboard and I'll give it a quick touch up before I deliver and install it tonight to make it really shine.
     

     

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  7. MCM_Fan

    MCM_Fan AK Subscriber

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    I've done similar replacements on other receivers in the past. Here's what I did for an NAD 7250PE:

    Lexan plate roughed up with sand paper before painting:

    [​IMG]

    Painted with four light coats of matte black Krylon Fusion paint for plastics:

    [​IMG]

    View from the outside:

    [​IMG]

    View from the inside:

    [​IMG]

    In addition to the Lexan being non-conductive, I also used insulated binding posts. So, double protection against any ground loops.

    I have all the materials on hand, so I'll probably make something similar for the MCS. Right now, she's just excited to get her new stereo hooked up and listen to some music. The panel lamps need replaced, and I didn't have any of those on hand. So, once I get some, I'll install them and probably install new speaker terminals at the same time.
     

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