I recently finished up my Fisher KX-100 ratrig Integrated Amplifier and have it up an running and in rotation. In it's case you could never tell it was a wreck at one time. After completing that project, I thought it was time to look at the Fisher KM-60 tuner that I picked up with the KX-100 a while back. The KM-60 is a BASKET CASE. His name is Rusty. I will go through a renaming ceremony when he's no longer rusty.
- No tubes except for the tuning eye 6FG8 (but I have enough 12AX7's and three of the four needed 6UA6's on hand),
- no fuse cap,
- missing one knob bright,
- will need a recap (electrolytics for PS and audio path),
- needs a light bulb (GE-47AF), and
- probably should replace the bridge rectifier (and add a 100ohm resistor to drop the higher voltage)
The stenciling on the chassis is completely gone. The multiplex unit seems to have less corrosion so I can still read the stenciling on it. My best hope for the chassis is to be able to read the serial number after the chassis is cleaned. Right now I can't even find the serial number under all the rust. I still need to determine if the PT is good.
At least the face plate and glass are good and the knobs are in decent shape. It has all the tube shields too. I have an assembly manual with schematic. The assembly manual is missing a few of the assembly diagrams, but I don't believe that will be a problem with the assembly steps and schematic intact. I already have an original Fisher wood case. (I picked up two cases on flea bay a while back - one for the KM-60 and the other for the KX-100 that is up and running well.)
I'll be hitting the rust with the "Krud Kutter" (from Wally World) that I used on the KX-100. This is going to take a while to clean up as the rust and pitting take a lot of elbow grease. I love a challenge!
- No tubes except for the tuning eye 6FG8 (but I have enough 12AX7's and three of the four needed 6UA6's on hand),
- no fuse cap,
- missing one knob bright,
- will need a recap (electrolytics for PS and audio path),
- needs a light bulb (GE-47AF), and
- probably should replace the bridge rectifier (and add a 100ohm resistor to drop the higher voltage)
The stenciling on the chassis is completely gone. The multiplex unit seems to have less corrosion so I can still read the stenciling on it. My best hope for the chassis is to be able to read the serial number after the chassis is cleaned. Right now I can't even find the serial number under all the rust. I still need to determine if the PT is good.
At least the face plate and glass are good and the knobs are in decent shape. It has all the tube shields too. I have an assembly manual with schematic. The assembly manual is missing a few of the assembly diagrams, but I don't believe that will be a problem with the assembly steps and schematic intact. I already have an original Fisher wood case. (I picked up two cases on flea bay a while back - one for the KM-60 and the other for the KX-100 that is up and running well.)
I'll be hitting the rust with the "Krud Kutter" (from Wally World) that I used on the KX-100. This is going to take a while to clean up as the rust and pitting take a lot of elbow grease. I love a challenge!