Some misinformation
Here is another Audiokarma thread (with a schematic Lorne!):
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225437&page=3
The knowledgeable user SicoAmp (who generally has some great advice on mods here) incorrectly states that the +1 is defined by the presence of the wide power supply and not to worry about the facia. This is not true as our pictures and discussion in the above posts prove. I think technically the small power supply is from the Melos PGK-1, a rare predecessor. Earlier GK-1 apparently have this smaller supply. Later Gk-1 have the wide power supply. The GK-1+1 ps is wide also, but with changes.
On the thread another user uploads some notes in a letter which I suspect is from the departed Will, lead tech at Melos:
"Designation: the +1 refers to factory performed update to the line driver and power supply circuits. The two preamps are indistinguishable from the face although the +1 should (!) have a white input connect area as opposed to the earlier models all black input area. All of these preamps are designated GK-1 on the back plate. Some +1 preamps also had the mute removed, I elected to leave it in."
SicoAmp's power supply pic matches up very well with Lorne's. Lorne claims his unit actually says GK-1+1 on the face (but maybe Melos did not always go to the trouble to change the marking). Let me search the internet for the white input area.... It was hard to find, but the earlier link to missed item on ebay had it. See attachments on this post for image. The image of the front clearly shows GK-1+1 which must have been added at the factory. The seller was using all 6GK5s. And I believe these are from Namikis whose images dropped off this thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=555024
(Quite the Melos GK-1 group in the Pittsburg area it seems so I am surprised this unit had the wrong tube complement.) I am not sure how the back plate is attached or even if it is a plate. Not sure if it makes a sonic difference somehow.
Zooming on the nice image of the board, we have nine wires coming out of the umbilical. So now, do we have nine wires with the regular GK-1's? .... Well it looks like seven to me, but perhaps an owner would confirm. I'd conclude that a new umbilical cord needs to be installed to allow the GK-1 to be changed to a +1, but I have no idea from the schematic or why this would be the case. It is definitely the case of 7 wires on standard GK-1 as relayed by chinacave:
"Blue + Orange / Switched power
Brown + Green + black - Ground
White - Filament 6.64VDC
Red - B+ 225VDC"
One can count the wires coming in on the attached image and see 9 on the +1.
It is interesting to think about the fact that the power switch is in the main unit. A hotrod of the unit would be to lose the power switch and all the wiring and just unplug the unit when not using. Easy, but those who must have a switch might relocate it to the power supply for a partial hot rod.
Namikis mentions, "the main case does not have 'side walls' in the GK1. The GK 1+1 has sidewalls, creating an aluminum 'cocoon' for the motherboard." The sonic lizard might need to confirm the "cocoon". I guess I do see that our nice close up shows sides with the lid off on the +1. In fact they appear to be aluminum. Most GK-1 chassis are black. I'd very interested if a magnet stick's to Lorne's lid if it is black. Lorne does your unit look just like the one in the attached images?
On the main board, I see resistor changes which makes sense. With the two specimens I have close ups of I see the most differences around the phono gain setting switches and the soft start relay. These may just have been small changes in design at the time of the manufacture. In short, it looks like with a lot of squinting at the online schematic and confirmation with the GK-1+1 high rez pic attached, one could make the resistor changes rather easily. They all must be done right. Its possible some could have changed in the phono EQ which would be a major problem if not done exactly.
While on the resistor front, the general quality of the resistors is the reasonable flame proof type. This circuit appears to have quite a few resistors in the signal path. In phono I see 47 ohm and 18k. In the line 2.2k and 47 ohm (cathode follower). Bulk foil resistors might be tried in a few of these spots if one is look for a faster more accurate crisp dynamic sound. Bulk foils are amazing in some of the most critical spots and at $15 a piece not the end of life of course unless you replace every single resistor in the unit.
The unit has nice polystyrene capacitors and I'd be loathe to touch those. They are all smaller values like 680pf (.00068uf) and you'll pay $8 a pop for the Relcap RTX which might alter sound somewhat. These style styrene caps are not very rugged and don't handle heat well, so there may be no going back if you lose a few on removal. I've got some rusky small value teflon I might toss in the less critical positions.
Speaking of critical capacitors you'll have to check these in the phono EQ. They look the same on the two examples I've been comparing, but if the resistors change in the phono some of these would have to change. I don't believe these types are straight forward to read in value.
I expect some of the diodes that in the power supply schematic will need to be changed, but the image is so blurry it may take some guess work. These are associated with the large power supply caps on each voltage leg which are bypassed by the big 4.0uf 400v yellow caps that some may have thought were coupling caps. Hopefully these can be deduced, but these are critical as they determine the different voltages each tube is run at.
Where are the coupling caps? They are in the Melos cans and I wouldn't touch them. :nono: If you must experiment, then just try upgrading the line stage coupling cap or the cap before the cathode follower in the line stage (smaller and cheaper to do). These are quality caps Melos had custom made, and please don't think they are electrolytics!
The only other must do upgrade in parts for me is the diodes in the Bridge rectifiers. To me diodes and electrolytic capacitors are the signature components of solid state. My system as solid state bass rectification and upgrading all of my caps to black gate helped the sound much and made my system sound much more like it only had tube amplification. The change from diode upgrades was of a similar flavor and equally compelling. Tighter more dynamic sound too while sounding more tube like for both of these upgrades. Diode upgrades are quite cheap and high voltage one amp diodes for the high voltage bridge can be had from Michael Percy Audio for like $1.25 a piece and the heater supply may be the most important and here some substitutes can be had for a similar price (low voltage, 5 amp rated here will do, but will cost more or take the easy route with the 20A IXYS hexfred bridge for $10.)
One GK-1 user did a lot of upgrades and reports on the results here:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225437&page=3
I just took a look at his images and he absolutely has a GK-1+1 in a black box with 9 wires (different colors of course than what we have in our image, and the grounds seem to hook up in different places, which is really strange.)
As far as upgrades SiCo had this to say in short:
1. The Macron photoflash caps (10 big ones on board I think) sounded great versus SiCo attempts to replace them. After 30 years they tested great, so don't touch. Quite expensive too.
2. "There is a 1uf 100v cap in the line stage (cathode follower section)... a solid tantalum cap and it causes a lot of that "original sound". Also, so do the input caps coming off the RCA jacks in the phono section. The original GK-1 has usually two in parallel - one is blue and one is tan. These are also solid tantalum dipped caps. They actually make some sense since they are physically small and the signal is also small. Replacing the tantalum caps will go a long way to adding LOTS of detail ...... I have tried all kinds of caps in these locations and will be happy to make suggestions later." SiCo where are you?
3. SiCo replaced the special Melos caps (made by SCR who makes Solen) in the phono stage "with some AEON caps (basically the same as SCR and Solen), just to see what would happen. As one would guess, basically the same sound. ..... don't worry about the "gloopy" stuff holding down caps. CAT, Counterpoint and a bunch of other manufactures used this stuff and it is absolutely necessary for the SCR caps to stay in place." Don't touch the Melos caps unless you want to pour money in the GK-1+1 (I'm sure a couple pairs of $500 a piece Teflon caps might be interesting.)
Of course, SiCo thinks this is the best Melos preamp ever with some TLC, but I expect ultimately he could take the $8000 music director to the next level.
Almost done I think. In short, it seems quite feasible to upgrade to +1 status provided you have a wide chassis power supply with the two transformers. The 9 wire 7 wire thing can be figured out I hope and it may just be some odd ground wire setup. The +1's seem to run quite hot, so a rebuild of their power supply would seem a necessary measure. Upgrading the main chassis to +1 status should not cost much except in time.
One think I've not figured out is the variable 1k resistor in parallel with 180 ohms on the cathode of the 6FH5. I see this in the schematic, but do not detect it in the images. Perhaps it is some bias pot I can't see that allows these tubes to be balanced internally (Lorne has mentioned about having to match pairs of 6FH5 because they vary over a wide range.)