Familyguy76
New Member
Do anyone know of any drop in replacements for the speaker protection relays?
Mitsubishi DA-R20 Receiver Replacement Speaker Relays
- Thread starter Familyguy76
- Start date
blhagstrom
Mad Scientist, fixer.
We're probably going to need a photo and the numbers written on it.
Mitsubishi is rare so we may have never worked in one of those.
Are you sure the relay is bad?
Mitsubishi is rare so we may have never worked in one of those.
Are you sure the relay is bad?
Eric Lloyd
Well-Known Member
Such a nice receiver!
I currently have a DA-R35 going in and out of a repair shop. The symptom: no sound. They found, initially, that the integrated circuits for output had gone bad. There is one for each side (Left, Right). After replacing them the unit functioned about four hours and blew out the left IC. They replaced it as a faulty new part. Then, after about ten minutes of use, the left side went again. They are now hunting further for a cause.
I relate this ongoing tale only to illustrate that there are other things that may cause an output problem. I generally question anytime something affects both channels. Of course, they are the professionals, so I can only let them enjoy their own learning curve.
I currently have a DA-R35 going in and out of a repair shop. The symptom: no sound. They found, initially, that the integrated circuits for output had gone bad. There is one for each side (Left, Right). After replacing them the unit functioned about four hours and blew out the left IC. They replaced it as a faulty new part. Then, after about ten minutes of use, the left side went again. They are now hunting further for a cause.
I relate this ongoing tale only to illustrate that there are other things that may cause an output problem. I generally question anytime something affects both channels. Of course, they are the professionals, so I can only let them enjoy their own learning curve.
Familyguy76
New Member
Hey guys,
The complaint I received is that the audio is very weak at a cold start but goes up to normal levels when it warms up. I never noticed this when I got the unit but found that any minor vibration on the protection relay board causes one or both channels to drop out substantially. I pulled the board and checked all connections and solder joints, all is well. I later found that it is caused by the relays themselves. The relays appear to be sealed, no way to get inside. I looked all over and cannot find any relays with this pin configuration. The relay is made my DEC and has 24VDC 2U on the top cover. But anyway slight taps on the relay causes the outputs to drop out substantially but not completely. A buddy of mine suggested drilling a hope in the top cover to access the contact!
The complaint I received is that the audio is very weak at a cold start but goes up to normal levels when it warms up. I never noticed this when I got the unit but found that any minor vibration on the protection relay board causes one or both channels to drop out substantially. I pulled the board and checked all connections and solder joints, all is well. I later found that it is caused by the relays themselves. The relays appear to be sealed, no way to get inside. I looked all over and cannot find any relays with this pin configuration. The relay is made my DEC and has 24VDC 2U on the top cover. But anyway slight taps on the relay causes the outputs to drop out substantially but not completely. A buddy of mine suggested drilling a hope in the top cover to access the contact!
I'm afraid I can't help the OP right off-hand, but please excuse me if I comment on:
From the history, I think there is a distinct possibility that the repair shop got stuck with shoddy counterfeit parts. (Any contemporary-production part that is identified as STK1080ii is a counterfeit in some sense. I'm pretty certain that they are no longer available from the original producer. But counterfeit doesn't have to equal shoddy.) If the shop is getting the parts off of ebay, for instance, I think they need to find a different supplier. STK1080ii isn't available from suppliers that are in my personal "first tier", but suburban-electronics.com says they have them at a reasonable price, and I've had satisfactory experience with them.
Pardon the digression.
Back to relay replacement, I think the best bet of getting a drop-in replacement would be to make measurements of the terminal footprint, pore over what 24VDC relays with the switching "form" are available from a supplier like Mouser, and try to match the footprint. If a picture of the original relay can be posted, it would probably be possible to identify the "form".
Cheers,
chazix
From the history, I think there is a distinct possibility that the repair shop got stuck with shoddy counterfeit parts. (Any contemporary-production part that is identified as STK1080ii is a counterfeit in some sense. I'm pretty certain that they are no longer available from the original producer. But counterfeit doesn't have to equal shoddy.) If the shop is getting the parts off of ebay, for instance, I think they need to find a different supplier. STK1080ii isn't available from suppliers that are in my personal "first tier", but suburban-electronics.com says they have them at a reasonable price, and I've had satisfactory experience with them.
Pardon the digression.
Back to relay replacement, I think the best bet of getting a drop-in replacement would be to make measurements of the terminal footprint, pore over what 24VDC relays with the switching "form" are available from a supplier like Mouser, and try to match the footprint. If a picture of the original relay can be posted, it would probably be possible to identify the "form".
Cheers,
chazix
Eric Lloyd
Well-Known Member
In my particular case, the repair shop concurs. They are ordering new parts from a different supplier.
Sorry, not trying to take over the thread. I thought, though, some response might be appropriate.
Sorry, not trying to take over the thread. I thought, though, some response might be appropriate.
Familyguy76
New Member
blhagstrom
Mad Scientist, fixer.
24vDC relay should not be difficult to locate from places like mouser or digikey.
Getting the footprint to fit the holes may be difficult.
You need to know if it is a normal open or normal closed type but that may be addressed if you go to plan B.
Plan B is the "dead bug" method where you get a relay of 24vDC and enough pins to support open and closed positions. You mount the relay upside down, like a dead bug with its feet (pins) in the air.
Then you do point to point wiring to the correct traces to make it work.
Its a pain, but its a plan and sometimes you need to do what you need to do.
Getting the footprint to fit the holes may be difficult.
You need to know if it is a normal open or normal closed type but that may be addressed if you go to plan B.
Plan B is the "dead bug" method where you get a relay of 24vDC and enough pins to support open and closed positions. You mount the relay upside down, like a dead bug with its feet (pins) in the air.
Then you do point to point wiring to the correct traces to make it work.
Its a pain, but its a plan and sometimes you need to do what you need to do.
Eric Lloyd
Well-Known Member
That's a good plan. I did do that with a couple of Ford lighting modules. The headlamp relay contacts would burn out and there was no way to get just the relay, and the entire module was quite expensive. It isn't pretty, but closing the cover fixes a lot of unsightliness.
Familyguy76
New Member
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