Mitsubishi Interplay X-10

Montycat

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I'm working on this sucker and have some questions if anyone can help. A Service Manual would be nice for one thing, largely to tell me how to disassemble parts of the case to get at the board on the arm movement carriage so I can test or replace the lamps.

I replaced a small belt and now HAVE arm movement. It will play 7" records but not 12", probably (I think) due to a burnt out lamp. It also will not return automatically at the end of said 45, possible due to another dead bulb.

Has anyone taken one apart? I've figured out a few parts of the process but would rather not end up with a bench covered in small screws that did not need removing...

Mitsubishi Interplay X-10 by Buhduh, on Flickr
 
The turntable half of that unit is the LT-640.
I have one stored away that needs attention.
As you've found, there is next to nothing out there in the way of manuals for this.
I also have an LT-5v but luckily there is a lot of info available for that one.
I especially like the removable headshell on the LT-5v as opposed to the fixed one on the LT-640.

Good luck with your endeavour.

Al. Wise
 
I have a shop manual for the LT-640. If anyone needs one (and I'm pretty sure that it will cover all TT adjustments for the X-10), PM me. These are surprisingly good turntables but it's almost impossible to adjust the tracking force so you really need to use carts that track around 2 grams. Mine sounds wonderful with an AT-95vl.
 
I have a shop manual for the LT-640. If anyone needs one (and I'm pretty sure that it will cover all TT adjustments for the X-10), PM me. These are surprisingly good turntables but it's almost impossible to adjust the tracking force so you really need to use carts that track around 2 grams. Mine sounds wonderful with an AT-95vl.

That's a very gracious offer!:thmbsp:
PM sent.

Al. Wise
 
Oddly I have one of those on the bench right now. Does the tonearm move to the 7" position even with a 12" clamped in? If so, that is most likely a logic error, a bad chip. The one I am working on moves across the record and back to rest, it does not recognize that a record is in place. There is only one light for two sensors, so your problem seems like bad logic also. I will be interested to see what you come up with.
 
No, it tracks all the way across and returns with a 12" as if there is nothing there. On 7" it stops, plays and stays in the leadout groove.

Check out that manual, on page 21 (16 in the PDF file) there is a small schematic near the top left with 3 transistors and 3 lamps. It's those I think are out. They shine through the slots in the tonearm guide and "tell" the turntable what the arm needs to do.
 
I would seek out all the lamps and replace them. Burned lamps will mess with the operation (position, return, tracking ect) and until they are replaced, you cannot do other troubleshooting IMHO. I replaced mine with LEDS on my LT-20.
 
I have a non working one buried somewhere so I will be watching your progress. Good luck in getting it going .
 
Yep, that board affects tonearm position and return functions I believe. Does the tonearm track OK? If it's anything like a LT-20, there are 2 servo lamps inside the tonearm, which you have to remove to get at, a real PITA. I can post more pics if that would help, the general design seems similar to the LT-20...
 

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Yep, that board affects tonearm position and return functions I believe. Does the tonearm track OK? If it's anything like a LT-20, there are 2 servo lamps inside the tonearm, which you have to remove to get at, a real PITA. I can post more pics if that would help, the general design seems similar to the LT-20...

They even use the same microprocessor, which is made from pure unobtanium. Now I have two spares for my LT-22 (one in my old, shelved LT-20 and one in my LT-640. if it comes down to that.
 
I made progress today and wish I could say that I buttoned it back up but not quite. I did some fancy bending on 3 LEDs and wired in some 470 ohm resistors, soldered 2 ... and then managed to lose the third one when someone distracted me. I'm sure it's in the 3000 sq.ft. basement there somewhere.

Of course I only had 3 of them, so it's back to the store in the morning.

But I did test it with the 3 and the arm now knows where to go for a 12" record! I think the one that I have yet to do is the 7" one, the shut-off one being the near one and the middle one for 12"
 
They can be disassembled. I've done it to replace the very lamps involved:

- Remove the platter first.
- Behind it is a metal strip that must be removed. This creates a slot for the arm to pass through as the TT assembly is removed from the case.
- Next remove the articulating arm. There are phillips screws on the base seen from the rear.
- It will not pass through the case, however, unless you remove the pivoting clamp. That's a pain. Just let it hang.
- Now, from the rear, there are about 4-5 screws that hold the entire TT assembly to the case. They're mounted using isolators so look for them. Take pictures as some of the screws are different lengths.
- Lastly, move the tonearm over the opening in the front part of the case so it will pass through it when the assembly comes out the back. Pay attention to loose parts of the isolators as they will go flying.

Being careful of all the wiring bundles. I routinely replace the power supply caps when I've got it this far out.

Cheers,

David
 
Thanks for that David. I did figure out all those steps with the help of that SM I linked to. Luckily this came with the special little wrench for the platter locknut.
 
Congratulations on getting the TT section up and running. You had to do a lot more work than I had to on my LT-640.

One thing you should look at now is whether or not you need to shim the record clamp. Most LT-640 owners I've talked to had to do that to keep solid disc to platter contact. I certainly had to. I ended up using double stick tape (the thin stuff) to attach a label-sized disc of copper-clad circuit board left over from a disc weight project. Others have used thin foam.
 
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