Model 4415 - P600 Power Amp Board Cap Question

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by Pioneer Vir, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. Pioneer Vir

    Pioneer Vir AK Subscriber Subscriber

    In-process of re-capping a Model 4415. Currently on the first (P600) Power Amp Board and have a question on the two big 2,200 caps on the board. They are 3 lead caps but it appears that one of the leads is a "dummy lead" and that for all practical purposes it's a regular 2,200 / 35 volt cap with positive and negative leads. Does anyone know if there is anything special about these caps or is it OK to just replace them with regular 2 lead caps? First time I remember running across caps like this. Thanks.

    Don

    P600 Power Amplifier Assembly.jpg P600 C623 and C624 Capacitors Top.JPG P600 C623 Capacitor Bottom.JPG
     

     

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  2. Jailtime

    Jailtime Standin' on a corner Subscriber

    Messages:
    11,375
    Location:
    Velva ND
    Ran across those in a 2216B I restored recently. I think that third lug is just to stabilize the cap. I just used a plain radial cap to replace them, modern 35V/2200uF are small enough that there's no stress on the 2 solder pads.
     
  3. Pioneer Vir

    Pioneer Vir AK Subscriber Subscriber

    I didn't think about stabilization for the cap. That is a fairly large cap to be sitting on the board the way it does. Thanks for the quick response!

    Don
     
  4. Pioneer Vir

    Pioneer Vir AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Do you remember how you got the caps to break loose from the board by chance? The ones on my boards are stuck on there like they are cemented in. I've tried to use an exacto knife, a razor blade and a small flat tip screwdriver to break the cap loose from the glue on the board. I've tried heating up the leads and rocking it back and worth. They aren't budging - at all. I'm to the point of being concerned about damaging the boards if I use much more force on them.
     
  5. Dingman

    Dingman Do you know where your towel is? Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,371
    Location:
    Des Moines, Ia
    I scrape and pry with the tools I get from the dental assistant. I do have to work at it, and scrape scrape scrape and then pry sometimes.
    I think people say alcohol softens the glue?

    Good luck.
     
  6. Pioneer Vir

    Pioneer Vir AK Subscriber Subscriber

    10-4... I'll keep plugging away at them and try not to screw the boards up.
     

     

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  7. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,685
    Location:
    N. Richland Hills, TX
    Everybody has their own trick to remove the glue once you carefully pry the caps off. Some use 99% isopropyl alcohol and some use acetone to soften the glue. Didn’t work well for me. Some use wooden sticks. Takes too long for me. I finally found that a very sharp 3/8” wood chisel held at a low angle, and making sure blade is flat against board so corners don’t gouge - most of the glue comes right off without scratching the board. I then follow with the isopropyl alcohol to remove the small amount of residue.
     
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  8. Oerets

    Oerets AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    10,365
    Location:
    Derby City U.S.A.
    More then likely it was to facilitate the wave soldering of the board. Very common practice on gear. Replace with a two lead can is what I do.

    A big heavy can needs to be stabilized while waiting to be completed.



    Barney
     
  9. MBuras

    MBuras Restoration is an Addiction Subscriber

    Messages:
    558
    Location:
    Champaign, IL
    I can better that slightly. A xacto chisel blade is thin and has flex to it so confroms well to the board surface. And depending on handle choice can fit in most spaces. YMMV
     
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  10. Pioneer Vir

    Pioneer Vir AK Subscriber Subscriber

    I have an exacto knife but I don't think I have a chisel blade. If not, I'll pick one up. Have the right channel board done except for the 2200uF caps.
     

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